Transaxle Seal Leak - How common, how dangerous?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Estes Kefauver, Jun 16, 2017.

  1. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Titanic Social Director

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    37,074
    25,876
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    To be fair, you can't tar them all with the same brush...

    Most would be deserving though, lol.
     
    Raytheeagle likes this.
  2. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2016
    9,429
    12,779
    0
    Location:
    Bay Area, California
    Vehicle:
    2019 Prius Prime
    Model:
    Prime Plus
    Meh, pull out the broad brush and paint away:p.

    They all fit nicely in(y).
     
    Mendel Leisk likes this.
  3. Kasra

    Kasra Junior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2018
    11
    7
    0
    Location:
    Irvine, CA
    Vehicle:
    2015 Prius
    Model:
    Four
    Thanks but I think the manual is referring to a different seal (aluminum crush washer for the drain and fill plug).

    I will take it to the dealership and they might actually take it in under warranty. The car passed the 60,000 mark on January 7th 2019, so it's been only two months. the fluid
    I will take it to the dealership and they might actually take it in under warranty. The car passed the 60,000 mark on January 7th 2019, so it's been only two months. the fluid "seepage" (dust and dirt) looks pretty old and I remember always seeing it long before. I wish the place that changed my tires would have told me about it 6 months ago.

    Thanks again :)
     
    Mendel Leisk likes this.
  4. Kasra

    Kasra Junior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2018
    11
    7
    0
    Location:
    Irvine, CA
    Vehicle:
    2015 Prius
    Model:
    Four
    So I did go to Autonation Toyota in Irvine and of course they kept saying that warranty is over and we can't quote you till we look in depth:cautious:...What I'm going to do is to clean up the splash area and check the oil level every 5000 miles (top it off). If things stay the way they are, I will change the seal myself with the next transmission oil change. I'll post some pictures to keep you all updated.

    TBH I don't even feel safe having a dealership do my oil change (y). Does anyone have the correct part number by any chance?

    Thanks
     
    #44 Kasra, Mar 19, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2019
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Titanic Social Director

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    37,074
    25,876
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    It's definitely not a trivial job changing a seal; I'd at least get a quote. Do you regularly do stuff like shocks, wheel bearing replacement? If so I'll shut up, lol.

    Get a firm quote, and tell them to stick to it. The last transmission seal repair (son's car), they (Honda dealership) quoted very low, Something like $135 CDN, and I confirmed, emphatically. Then an hour in they called said it would cost about double.

    I said charge what you like, and brace for the review. They ended up charging $95, lol.
     
    RMB and Kasra like this.
  6. Kasra

    Kasra Junior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2018
    11
    7
    0
    Location:
    Irvine, CA
    Vehicle:
    2015 Prius
    Model:
    Four
    Alright, here is what happened:

    1) Dealer is pointless and they quoted me $2500 because they thought this was a transmission seal. I just left them because this shows they didn't even take the tire or engine cover off to see what is leaking.

    2) I took the river side tire off and cleaned the area with Brake cleaner (Brake Parts Cleaner MAC Chemical 13 oz). This stuff worked really well. I have tried other brake cleaners from Walmart, but they don't really work. If anyone could suggest a better one, please let me know :)

    https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MCR4800

    3) The Driver side (LH) seal part number is 90311-40037 or 43410M
    The Passenger side (RH) Seal Part number is 90311-50045 or 43420H

    Someone told me the left and right seals are the same, but I just can't justify the difference in part numbers. Be smart and re-check the parts yourself (attached).

    Conclusion: After cleaning, I haven't seen any leaks so far. I need to drive a lot more to see a something, but I will top off the transmission oil with every oil change. You can really do this using the same engine cover inlet you use for oil, Hint: look adjacent of the oil filter ;)

    My guess is that the leak was caused by pressure inside the transmission (I don't know if these transmissions have vents, correct me please). This was probably a small leak and was never noticed by the previous owner, so fingers crossed.

    I dislike the dealerships and so here is the DIY for those of you that feel the same:

    NOTE: Wait about 5 minutes after engine off, disconnect the positive terminal and leave the car for 30 minutes (for the remaining power to drain). If you don't do this step, you might have to tow the car to the dealership. Someone here can explain this better?

    1) Loosen the front axle nut (take it to a mechanic ship and have them loosen it for you and hand tight it then to drive home). Trust me, power tools were used on this. You need 30 mm 12 point socket. (160 ft.lbs)
    2) Remove the engine cover (big plastic underneath)
    3) Open the transaxle filler and drain plugs (37 ft.lbf) respectively and keep the fluid (or change it). 3.6 qts
    4) Take the front wheel off (of course the side that needs repair)
    5) Separate the speed sensor and flexible hoses (be smart, just secure them so they won't get damaged by moving caliper or anything).
    6) Separate tie rod end assembly (37 ft.lbf)
    7) Separate Front stabilizer Assembly (55 ft. lbs)
    8) Separate Front Disc brake Caliper (2 bolts 100 ft.lbf)
    9) Remove Rotor
    10) front Axle assembly
    11) Separate front Lower suspension
    12) Go underneath and remove the front axle assembly with a pry bar ( This shouldn't be a problem if you took the engine cover off). Use the notched or watch some videos online. You can also but the tool (up2u).
    NOTE: Take a few picture showing how much the seal is inside the housing and the orientation. This will give you an idea of how much the new seal needs to go in. Don't just hit it till it stops :)

    13) Remove the seal with a seal puller ($8 online)
    14) clean the area, use some multi purpose grease to lube the outer area of the seal and tap it in gently. Hint: Use a PVC tube that has the same diameter as your seal and place it on the seal. Then tap the end of the tube the seal seats in.
    Pop the axle back in and steps 11, 10, 9, ...


    Please correct anything that is wrong or modify it and write a new one. When it comes to fixing this, I will record a video. Maybe someone will do it before I do :)

    Thanks
     

    Attached Files:

    #46 Kasra, Apr 16, 2019
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2019
    Mendel Leisk likes this.
Loading...