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Transmission Jerking Badly in ECO Mode

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Main Forum' started by dc101, May 10, 2021.

  1. Mdv55

    Mdv55 Active Member

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    You need to clean the small holes on the intake manifold first.

    Then pressure test the cooling system or do a leak down test to confirm or rule out the head gasket.
     
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  2. dc101

    dc101 Junior Member

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    Thanks. I will do the manifold next. I am suspecting may be there was existing carbon in the pipe coming from exhaust and connecting to the cooler. I hope it has not blocked the cooler again.
     
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    As long as the Exhaust Gas Recirculation passages in the intake are blocked, especially if they’re REALLY blocked, all your other cleaning isn’t helping much. It might even result in MORE imbalance: everything’s cleaned except the intake passages, they tend to clog unevenly, clogging most advanced at cylinder one first. So cylinder 4 might be having back-to-normal flow, and 3, 2 and 1 are increasingly “throttled”.
     
  4. dc101

    dc101 Junior Member

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    While awaiting weekend for further disassembly of Intake, I decided to add Seafoam in the gas tank with the hope that Seafoam may following the EGR cooler passage as well. I drove about 15 miles in stop n go traffic and the highway and so far it didn't misfire.
     
  5. Mdv55

    Mdv55 Active Member

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    A bad injector can cause misfires too.

    Still clean the intake manifold and I'd rule out a headgasket issue definitively. That's something you don't want to continue driving on for long. If it's an injector, you have more time to fix it.
     
  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    That seems like a long shot to me. By the time any Seafoam is going to reach the EGR passages, it's going to be something other than Seafoam.
     
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  7. dc101

    dc101 Junior Member

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    Definitely the intake is on top of the list for this weekend's project. Picked up manifold gasket from the dealer.

    For Seafoam, I added it to the gas tank. Since then I have driven the car twice, mixed pattern - no issues so far. Interestingly, I tried ECO mode as well - no problems here either. ECO mode was the scariest one - I tried from full stop multiple times - not even a glitch. This modes used to be the worst one. I will drive to work tomorrow and hopefully Prius behaves well.
     
    #67 dc101, May 19, 2021
    Last edited: May 20, 2021
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  8. dc101

    dc101 Junior Member

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    Update 22 May: After adding Seafoam to the gas, it drove fine for 2 days, about 150 miles, until this morning as I was going to the dealership to pickup PCV valve. It again acted up. Anyway, I opened the intake manifold - did not see blockage of the EGR ports, however, I did good cleanup of the manifold. All the ports on the engine block intake were dirty, especially, the first cylinder. i also changed the PCV valve. Just test drove it and has been OK so far. Just lost trust in the car though as the behavior is very unpredictable.
     
    #68 dc101, May 22, 2021
    Last edited: May 22, 2021
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  9. dc101

    dc101 Junior Member

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    During the test drive, it glitched again once in a stop n go traffic 15 miles roundtrip - warm 85 degrees outside. The problem is still there which just manifests under some unknown conditions at this point. I drove two days ago while it was 92 degrees outside and no issues.
     
  10. dc101

    dc101 Junior Member

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    The problem continues to pop up once in a while during my driving trips. Any ideas for next steps? I heard about head gasket sealants, however, that will ruin everything..

    Checked on gasket replacement - was told it was over $2k. I am checking around used engine replacement costs.

    Strangely enough, there is no white smoke in the exhaust - may be it will be the next stage as the gasket further deteriorates.

    Any ideas?
     
  11. dc101

    dc101 Junior Member

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    Any further ideas? I called around various shops and they don't want to change the engine because of being hybrid, although it looks exactly similar to Toyota 1.8 engine.
     
  12. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    In your shoes I’d:

    1. have a leak down test, to see head gasket condition.

    2. if it’s indeed failing, have it replaced, along with the various other gaskets and seals (there’s a Toyota rebuild kit of gaskets). Also have a machine shop go over the head. Do check the piston positions at Top Dead Center too; if any are low that’d indicate bent piston arm, and then you’re maybe looking at new short block.

    here’s a good thread on HG replacement, by @The Critic :

    2011 Prius Head Gasket Failure | PriusChat
     
  13. dc101

    dc101 Junior Member

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    Thanks for your guidance. The mechanics are asking too much ($3000) for head gasket rebuilt (first they don't even want to touch it) and result might be iffy because of the number of things that will be coming out. Engine replacement by shop $3,500. If my own engine $1500 labor.
     
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  14. Mdv55

    Mdv55 Active Member

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    Not sure why you're entertaining spending that kind of money without actually confirming the diagnosis.
     
  15. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    diagnostics is a thing of the past, plug and pray is in the current hip trend.
     
  16. BZzap!

    BZzap! Senior Member

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    Before you do anything you should block check your cooling system. It will tell you if you have combustion gases in your the cooling system. 0B3A2562-2D5B-485E-B68E-10D823C3C671.png
     
  17. dc101

    dc101 Junior Member

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    In a given trip the problem sometimes shows up multiple times and sometime not even once. I can observe slow coolant loss, not much but noticeable and I can hear coolant rush every time engine starts when the level is low. Oil level remains unchanged.

    Yesterday I drove about 250 miles - mixed. On one local trip the issue happened multiple times.

    My theory is that when the engine stops with cylinder 1 being the first first cylinder to fire up during the start up, the startup cycle gets messed up until other engine gains momentum with the help of the cylinders. The issue, when happens both at cold starts and while engine is hot.

    My next step is to conduct compression test (will need to figure out how).

    One last option I my considering is disable cylinder 1 fuel, remove the spark plug and let it run on 3 cylinders, at least it would risk of rod coming out?

    I really do not intend to spend the rip-off money on the repairs which exceed the price of the car at this mileage - while I may upcoming expenses.
     
  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    sigh…
     
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  19. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    If you have Techstream, traditional compression test is an option (Techstream has a function to make the engine crank for the test).

    Without Techstream, a leakdown test will be easier to conduct. It's a little bit more diagnostic anyway: you can figure out where the air's going.
     
  20. dc101

    dc101 Junior Member

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    Thanks. I am suspecting when the engine is stopped on traffic light for a longer duration and Cylinder 1 is the candidate for firing, it loses compression to a point where cylinder 1 would not fire up and hence rattling. Same thing during cold starts (all other cylinders I am assuming retain sufficient level of compression and/or can build quickly if their turn). I will study on Techstream.