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Transponder, Smart System ECUs or key fob? B2557

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Chris Larson, Dec 20, 2019.

  1. Chris Larson

    Chris Larson Junior Member

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    First timer: I don't trust my local dealership. (what a way to start!)

    Error code B2557
    2005 Prius

    The car seems to run perfectly but every so often the red triangle pops up with the (!) and the VSC light.
    The car still runs fine but if I turn it off like that it won't start again unless I disconnect the battery
    for 10 minutes or more. It seems that if I disconnect it for a short time those lights come on again on the
    next drive but if I disconnect it overnight it takes much longer the next time. The lights are yellow except
    the red triangle.
    The tires are inflated to 36psi.

    I took it into the dealership to fix the tire pressure modules or what's needed in that link but once they got
    the car they ignored that, requested my second key fob and took 4 days to come up with an answer I don't
    trust. To be fair the warning lights were not on when I dropped off the car.
    Here's what I got from them:

    Cause: B2775 sets when trying to start car using Smart System

    Correction: Had customer bring other key to try, still same concern, follow DIAG chart for DTC, need to try new or known good transponder ECU, if that doesn't work need to replace Smart ECU, made est to replace transponder ECU -( $727.14, labor 4.0 $611.50. ) Smart Entry ECU ($1579.50, labor 1.5 $223.95)
    Then the disclaimer...

    That's $3,122.09 which basically totals the car. Could it just be the key fobs? They've quit working the
    doors a couple of years ago. They did work in the past. I've had the car for 7+ years. Could it just be
    the tire pressure instruments and the VSC?

    My persistence is excellent which makes me a better mechanic than I really am. I'll try with provocation.

    Thanks everyone.
     
  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Welcome to PriusChat!!
    Have you checked the SKS button under the steering wheel?
     
  3. Chris Larson

    Chris Larson Junior Member

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    I have not. I don't know anything about that but I'll study up on it now. I just put new batteries in the fobs. It didn't solve the problem. Thanks for the lead.
     
  4. Chris Larson

    Chris Larson Junior Member

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    I need to correct that. The new batteries in the fobs did fix the problem with locking the doors but not with starting the car. Again, after "rebooting" the 12 volt battery I can start it with the key fob.
     
  5. Chris Larson

    Chris Larson Junior Member

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  6. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Since the above suggestion didn't help, maybe the quote below could help :
     
    #6 SFO, Jan 2, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2020
  7. Chris Larson

    Chris Larson Junior Member

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    Thanks. It is in the out position. One of the silver fobs works for the doors and the fob slot to start the car. The other silver fob only works to start the car with the fob slot. I tried the chicken dance to see if I could get the second one back in shape with no luck. Neither have ever worked as keyless for starting or opening the door and I've had the car for many years, key button in or out. Would any of that cause the red triangle, the (!) and the VSC lights? I'm fine with the keys as they are but the problem turning on those lights disable the car until I unplug the 12 volt battery for 10 minutes or more. Thanks again. I sure appreciate the help.
     
  8. RobH

    RobH Senior Member

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    It's possible that a button on the fob has degraded to the point that it locks ON and drains the fob battery. If this is intermittent, then the symptoms keep moving...

    Replacement fob cases are cheap ($10?), so I'd just try replacing the old one. Be sure to move over both the transponder chip and the separate circuit board. And replace the fob battery (again) if the red LED doesn't flash when you press a button.

    A low 12V battery can cause all sorts of strange (and wrong) problems with a variety of ECUs. The 12V battery operates the ECUs, but it is not used to operate a starter. Get it tested under load at most any shop that sells batteries.

    If multiple ECUs all pop up not working at once, it may be a wiring or connector problem. Replacing ECUs may get the right connector wiggled, but that doesn't mean that the ECUs are at fault.
     
  9. Chris Larson

    Chris Larson Junior Member

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    The fobs are working as they always have. They do not drain its battery.

    The 12 volt battery is a few years old. We leave the car parked for 5 months at a time with a trickle charger on it
    and a friend comes over to drive it every other month. Good advice to get that checked. I'll do that asap.

    We're only getting one code, B2557. The smart function never worked in the 7 years or so that we've owned the
    car, and that's fine with me if it's not now effecting the issue I have now. I didn't even know the car had that ability
    until this gremlin popped up.

    Off to the battery store. Thanks!
     
  10. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Given your opinion of the dealer over there (nothing new, we've heard such before), and the plethora of lights currently on the dash, now would be a good time to purchase a mini-vci cable and setup a copy of techstream.

    It sounds like you have a HV fault. When the 12v is disconnected the DTCs will be cleared from the ECUs, you will then need to drive the vehicle until the codes are thrown once again.
     
  11. Chris Larson

    Chris Larson Junior Member

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    I use a MacBook. I've read the mini vci won't work on them. I have a junk Dell laptop that the screen doesn't work on but maybe
    I can cockroach something together with extension cords and an external screen. If so I'll get one of those cables even if the battery solves the problem. Thanks. Hey, I see below your post about turning up the HV battery fan. How's that done? It's always 85*F here.
     
  12. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    If you are happy to install (or already have) VMWare or Parallels or setup a BootCamp partition, you can install 32-bit Win7 and run Techstream without any issue on your MacBook.

    But a separate beater laptop would be better.
     
  13. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Great advice.

    And if none of the above are available, you can use Oracle VM VirtualBox , a free OSS option.
     
  14. Chris Larson

    Chris Larson Junior Member

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    Haha, I got the bigly-ist beater lap top. Windows XP. It did start up but I had the fire extinguisher ready. Thanks!
     
  15. Chris Larson

    Chris Larson Junior Member

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    The 12 volt battery bench tested to be in good shape.
     
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  16. Chris Larson

    Chris Larson Junior Member

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    My beater laptop is dead. I bought a 32 bit. Dell Latitude D630 14.1" Laptop (Intel Core 2 Duo 2.0Ghz, 160GB Hard Drive, 2048Mb RAM, DVD/CDRW Drive, XP Profesional with Dell Reinstallation XP CD) $89 after shipping.
    To be clear, next I need to buy the mini vci cable and then go online and get techstream software? Simple as that? Is it better to buy one with the CD? Links to a recommended cable and software?
     
  17. Chris Larson

    Chris Larson Junior Member

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    For those wondering what the answer to my question, above, is, here's what I finally found on this site:

    Order the cheapest mini-vci J2534 available for less than $15 shipped (Amazon, eBay, or AliExpress). They are all the same. Download the latest TechStream SW from the web and install it on a 32-bit Win 7 or 10 OS.
     
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  18. Chris Larson

    Chris Larson Junior Member

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    Quick question? I've downloaded the Techstream program. I bought a Mini VCI cord which came with a mini cd that
    won't work on my computer. Is everything I need on the Techstream program or do I need to figure out how to get that
    mini cd's data on a thumb drive?
    Thanks.
     
  19. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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  20. Chris Larson

    Chris Larson Junior Member

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    My computer warned me not to open that link.