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Triangle of death

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by BYUFam1, Jul 21, 2022.

  1. BYUFam1

    BYUFam1 Junior Member

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    So here is my history on my issues: Help needed with brake codes | PriusChat

    My last post hasn't received any responses so I am starting this new thread because it actually appears to be a new issue.

    History:
    - brake issues with beeping
    - research leaned me to brake actuator
    - took to a mechanic that said he could work on a Prius
    - he ran codes stating emphatically it was the Brake ECU and they could not reprogram so I would need to find a different mechanic
    - I bought a scan tool and 2 day techstream subscription and replaced the ECU myself
    - had a month or so of normalcy then then beep came back
    - help from this group assured me it was the brake actuator
    - just completed the install of the brake actuator this week and reassembled everything
    - now getting the triangle of death and the car will not move into drive/reverse (see below)

    death triangle.jpg
    console error.jpg

    I am pretty cost adverse so not wanting to even pay for another 2 days of techstream if it will not be worth my time.

    My guess from poking around is there is a problem with they hybrid battery. I have triple checked all of the connections and can not find anything that appears to be wrong with them. So I'm thinking it is actually a dead/bad hybrid battery.

    So my experience was that during the last period of time when we were driving the car it appeared to struggle a bit getting to a high charge on the battery. My assumption from some of the things I read is that with a bad brake actuator it was not getting the regenerative braking charge aspect.

    My questions now are...

    - Am I possibly just missing something easy that I can go back and check?
    - Is there a way to charge a depleted hybrid battery?
    - Will I need Techstream subscription again to verify anything else?
    - Can I replace individual cells if I somehow can determine specific cells are bad? And do you recommend that route?
    - Any recommendations on best places to get a replacement hybrid battery on a shoe string budget?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    very possible the actuator is the problem since the triangle is the immediate result. check all the connections carefully for snugness and corrosion.

    did you bleed with tech stream?

    how many miles on her?

    difficult to suggest anything else without trouble codes.

    you can recharge the battery with a grid charger like prolong, or disassemble and charge modules individually.
    you can run dr prius app for module voltages and replace any out of range, or recondition them.
    with reconditioned batteries, you get what you pay for. it depends on how long you want to keep the car, and how reliable you want it to be.
     
  3. BYUFam1

    BYUFam1 Junior Member

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    I went over everything multiple times for snugness and have not seen any corrosion.

    I have not bled with Techstream yet. I know I will eventually have to get TechStream but want to reduce the number of times I have to do that (yes I'm that poor). If people think that could be the remedy vs me jumping down the rabbit hole of the hybrid battery then I will make that purchase - or check out the items listed by the post by alftoy.

    Car has about 270k miles.
     
    bisco likes this.
  4. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    Yes, you NEED Techstream (or equivalent) to properly bleed the brake actuator, and to set the "linear solenoid valve calibration".

    The linked VM download should work for Techstream. Or you can look at the stickied app review thread at the top of the Gen2 Technical discussion forum. If you own an older Prius, it certainly makes sense to have a scantool available "at all times".

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  5. BYUFam1

    BYUFam1 Junior Member

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    Will it matter much that this appears to be version 12 when the latest is version 17? Will I miss much in the way of capabilities?

    Then again if it is as advertised it seems affordable :)
     
  6. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Was the replacement a used part?
    Yes. The least expensive option would be with an LED power supply, or a used electrophoresis power supply. Both are under 100.
    It has been done before, and may be a cost effective solution, though this option may also hinge on if the vehicle is mission critic (job, school, doctor, etc), or your potential stress threshold if you or someone else is stranded.
    You can try the usual places like CL, OU, ND, but unlikely if you'll find anything decent or nearby in MO. Best bet would be to search via Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market - here is a sample search sorted from price : Search Results

    Not sure where in MO you are, but given the above mostly local used options (you can also try searching by distance with your zipcode) , this could be the most bang for 500 bucks you'll find (or it could be a POS) : 2008 Toyota Prius Battery-Stock%23 1221-3254#1

    There could be additional used junk yard options outside of the MO / IL search area above, but that will incur shipping or gas/drive time. Check the local towing yards as well, sometimes they are parting out vehicles, and you can usually inspect, or are expected to uninstall.

    Buying used HV battery at a junk yard can be an issue on many levels (giving up a core may be required, or you may not be allowed inside), especially if the battery being sold is out of the vehicle (or even in the vehicle), best to do some due diligence (scammers be scamming) before purchasing, confirm the vehicle mileage by visiting the vehicle (you may need a portable 12v source, and the key of course), then confirm the recorded mileage makes sense in relation to the age and VIN (was it rolled back?); your best option would be best to run a carfax (or similar) for the mileage and registration history, or use the VIN at a dealership for last recorded mileage during a recent visit, which could be years old or non existent. Instead of calling or walking into a dealer, you could try toyota.com/owners - but that hasn't worked for some time, though it may work now (please let us know). Last but not least, what is the warranty or return policy on the used part being sold.

    If you can afford closer to 1k, then this is a decent option : Rebuilt & New Hybrid Battery & Install Prices | Hometown Hybrids

    If you have more to spend, then you could try one of the lifetime warranty 3rd party options, or just go with a new OEM / Lithium / NiMH.
    Not likely, and the only related software update I remember (don't recall which) from years ago was to lessen the cycling of the brake actuator when bleeding the brakes, as someone thought this might prevent failures during service(?). If you are bleeding the brakes with an older version, and are worried about the high duty cycle on the actuator, just slow down during the step-by-step, or install that latest and greatest.
    Same as was recommended before : Help needed with brake codes | PriusChat

    Many find the VM version easier to deal with, as virtualbox works with many different OS's.
     
  7. BYUFam1

    BYUFam1 Junior Member

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    SFO I will get some responses when I get back to my laptop as there is a lot to unpack.

    I am struggling with this whole Oracle VM and TechStream as I am on Windows 10 Home and it seems to have compatibility issues with hyper-v. If anyone knows a fix to that or advice on what specific OS I can look for on a cheap machine at a thrift store or pawn shop that would work.
     
  8. BYUFam1

    BYUFam1 Junior Member

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    I am plugging away overcoming multiple issues with settings, etc. I had bios issues preventing things then the VM wasn't properly getting the USB driver for the vxdiag and now it is saying it won't connect to the car :-(

    toyota techstream error s302-05

    Will keep poking around on how to get past that but if anyone has advice I'm listening. :)
     
  9. BYUFam1

    BYUFam1 Junior Member

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    Yes it is a used part.

    I looked at car-part.com yesterday and just missed out on a battery for $150. There is one relatively close for $500 and I would need to take in the core.

    I have a bit of time as it is typically my son's car for commuting to college classes (furthest daily drive for any of us during school year - thus the hybrid desire) and he doesn't start back up for about a month but would like to have it running and pass inspection so it can be drive able and licensed again before then. We do have enough vehicles if needed without the Prius but one is a F250 that only gets about 9-12 mpg...

    At this point I'm plugging away at trying to get the free techstream in a VM working so I can scan and bleed the brakes, etc.

    Note to any wondering I have tried to connect to my Toyota Sienna which is fully operational and my currently disabled Prius and neither one is connecting. Also now the Prius is stating in the console that there is something with the transmission(?) and parking brake and it won't let me take the key out of the ignition :-(

    When it rains it pours.
     
  10. alftoy

    alftoy Senior Member

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  11. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Which vxdiag do you have? (nano, etc)
    What is the voltage reading at the 12v in the truck, and at the jump point under the hood?
    Any old beater with winblows xp should be fine, though I've installed on 7 and 8 as well.

    Have you tried installing this version already? : https://blog.obdii365.com/2022/06/06/free-download-toyota-techstream-v17-10-012/
     
  12. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Why do we think it's a hybrid battery SOC issue when it's showing 6 blue bars?

    Stop guessing and get the codes, otherwise you're getting ready to piss away $$ and get no solution.

    Did you do ANYTHING to the hybrid battery at all during the work you performed on the car?
     
  13. BYUFam1

    BYUFam1 Junior Member

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    I'm not convinced it is the hybrid but I am also researching all of that while I plug away at trying to get the codes.

    That is my current issue I am focused on. But I am not 100% at the car and laptop doing that so often when I am out at other responsibilities I am doing that research.
     
  14. BYUFam1

    BYUFam1 Junior Member

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    16585997777351555597166115998972.jpg
     
  15. BYUFam1

    BYUFam1 Junior Member

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    Oops forgotten respond to another question...

    The only thing I did was disconnect the orange connection in the back and then of course had to disconnect everything up front to get to the brake actuator.
     
  16. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Does this mean the orange safety disconnect at the HV battery?

    If so, are you certain you installed it correctly? That is a 3 step process, where the third step activates an interlock to let the car know the safety disconnect has been installed.

    Step 1: insert the safety disconnect into the socket
    Step 2: rotate the handle upward 90 degrees to fully seat the device into the socket
    Step 3: push straight downward on the handle. It should shift downward about 1/2", which inserts a shorting wire across 2 terminals inside to let the ecu know the switch is fully installed.

    Look at the pictorial at the bottom of this link

    2006 PRIUS Repair Manual - 2006 PRIUS Electrical Wiring Diagram.pdf (priuschat.com)
     
  17. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    There is also a similar safety disconnect inside the lid of the inverter. There is a metal tab mounted on the inside of the lid, which will insert into a socket when the lid is properly installed. The little black cube mounted to the side of the inverter is also a safety device and will disable the hybrid system if it senses airbag deployment (if I remember correctly). Maybe check its connection. Pretty sure we've seen a few instances of forgotten connections following DIY actuator replacement jobs. Won't be the first and certainly wouldn't be the last.
     
  18. BYUFam1

    BYUFam1 Junior Member

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    I actually have that installed and have used it two times already. But in lieu of paying the 2 day fee several more times (who knows how many more times if it does end up being the hybrid battery and I need to replace cells or recondition) I have been attempting to get the VirtualBox version running that alftoy recommended.
     
  19. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Since you have the nano, it shouldn't require a "driver", as mentioned in this link below.

    "Compatible devices : VXDIAG VCX NANO Toyota (don't need MVCI driver)" : https://blog.obdii365.com/2022/06/06/free-download-toyota-techstream-v17-10-012/

    You might uninstall the installed version, and download techstream again from the above link, and then go step-by-step through the 'How to install" process mentioned in the above link; which includes step 3.
    Though I only did this once when emulating a mac that required USB access, you might try installing "VirtualBox 6.1.36 Oracle VM VirtualBox Extension Pack". - Downloads – Oracle VM VirtualBox

    The hyper-v compatibility thing shouldn't be that complicated :

    2.33. Using Hyper-V with Oracle VM VirtualBox - (hyper-v doesn't help virtualbox performance)

    How to use VirtualBox and Hyper-V together on Windows 10 - H2S Media - (maybe run them both at the same time?)

    Are you using hyper-v for something, or would it be easier if you just turn it off?

    Disable Hyper-V to run virtualization software - Windows Client | Microsoft Docs