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Two dumb inverter coolant questions

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by RebL, Sep 11, 2016.

  1. RebL

    RebL Junior Member

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    Okay, I've watched a couple YouTube videos and read several conversations on this website. I have the Toyota SLLC, the 24mm socket, and a torque wrench, but I've never done this before, so I have two questions (so far):
    1. What happens if I don't get all the air bubbles out? I plan to do the recommended on for two secs, off, recheck the level and top off as needed. But is there much potential for harming the car?
    2. I used about 2 ounces from my new jug of coolant topping off the reservoir in a vain attempt to get the intermittent CEL for the coolant flow control valve to stay off. If it turns out that when I finish it's not quite "full," can I top off with a different brand? The only nearby dealership with a parts department open on Sunday is Prime, and I'm not going back there.

    Thanks, gotta start somewhere....
     
  2. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

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    You appear to be confused about this. Or I didn’t understand you.

    Inverter coolant and engine coolant are two separate systems.
    -Inverter coolant needs that 24mm socket and you should also have new sealing washer for it and short clear hose to bleed it. But inverter coolant is easy to bleed. You just fill the system. Open the bleeder and connect the hose from bleeder to reservoir. Power up the Prius. And then when you see no bubbles in the hose close the bleeder.
    -Engine coolant is the one that’s hard to bleed.

    Don’t top up with wrong fluid.
     
  3. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    +1 on the coolant. Use the Toyota brand SLLC. Also don't get fooled thinking the cooling system for the ICE will be full if you fill up the reserve reservoir. It is a very good idea to check the level of the coolant in the radiator itself. Many have found the radiator to be low, but the bottle to be full. Below is a pic of what the radiator level should look like when it is full.

    Rad Fluid 2.JPG
     
  4. jdcollins5

    jdcollins5 Senior Member

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    delete
     
  5. andrewclaus

    andrewclaus Active Member

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    Though it is comparatively easy to bleed the inverter coolant system, it is critical to get it right. Do not drive the car if you do not see flow in the inverter reservoir with IG-ON. The pump should be very slightly audible, a steady hum, no cavitation.

    You'll need about three liters for the inverter and transaxle, so you should have plenty left in your gallon to do the job. If for some reason you run low, put some of the used stuff back in rather than mixing in a different type.
     
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  6. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    I wanted to add this link for the OP. If you are going to be changing and or bleeding the coolant for the ICE loop, you might want to study this thread. Also pay close attention to the post's by Patrick Wong.

    Good luck to you.

    Changing engine coolant | PriusChat
     
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  7. Currahee

    Currahee Member

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    If you pour slowly and take your time there will be little air left to bleed out of the inverter loop. You need 10mm and 14mm wrenches and a short 1/4" ID tube for the bleeder. Someone made a helpful PDF which replicates the process from the Toyota service manual.
     

    Attached Files:

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  8. RebL

    RebL Junior Member

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    Is it necessary that the car be level or can I put the front end up on ramps, at least until I have replaced the drain plug? The ramps are about 9" tall. Otherwise, I do have a spot on the driveway that's a bit sunken that will give me maybe another inch to get under the car.
     
  9. Currahee

    Currahee Member

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    I don't think it's necessary for it to be level except for topping off, just don't drive off the ramps before adding coolant. If you can reach the drain plug and get a torque wrench on it you don't really need to lift the car. I was able to do it parked in my garage but I am lanky.
     
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  10. RebL

    RebL Junior Member

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    Thank you everyone who answered.
     
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  11. RebL

    RebL Junior Member

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    I had to wait for the WD-40 to work and my husband to get home. That drain plug was on tight, couldn't loosen it myself, and even he needed the longer torque wrench handle. But getting it off was pretty much the only part of the procedure that was difficult. I appreciate all the helpful comments and suggestions.

    If anyone needs the part # for the drain plug aluminum washer, it is 90430-A0003, $1.99 including MA sales tax.
     
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