Valve lifter ticking

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by JohnStef, Sep 15, 2018.

  1. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    In older, more traditional engines, option 1 was pretty easy. You could just take off the oil pan and the crankshaft and rod ends were right there, you could even hear of leaving the crank in place, rolling out an old bearing half and rolling the new one in.

    The 1NZ engine with its two-piece bottom is nothing like that. The small stamped "oil pan no. 2" that you can take off easily doesn't give you the access you need, and the "oil pan no. 1" aluminum casting that needs to be removed is bolted both to the block and to the transaxle, and its seal to the block is with FIPG, and the semicircular opening at the back is one half of the rear main seal bore, so of course you have to drive in a new seal after reassembly, which means the flywheel must be off and you need room to work there.

    I have trouble picturing any practical way to do the bearings with the engine in the car.

    Another thing I was surprised to learn is how small the specified bearing clearances are. They are below the accurate range for the two usual colors of Plastigauge that are easy to find; they are right in the range for PL-X, which seems to be more common in motorcycle shops, and isn't as widely sold.

    -Chap
     
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  2. JohnStef

    JohnStef Member

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    Chap thank you for the detail. A tech I'm acquainted with has done this job and tells me it is not a terrible job for just the Rod Bearings, And you read my mind about the Plastigage. But, my initial plan, is to simply mic the diameter and do a visual inspection for scuffing and grinding. If the crank journal is good, then I proceed with Rod Bearing replacement.
     
  3. Center of Gravity

    Center of Gravity Junior Member

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