Very weak coolant flow on inverter reservoir

I replaced my fluid a few years in after I bought my car new in 07. It had pretty good flow nothing really great. But after I changed it the coolant looked like it was boiling the flow is so aggressive. And has been like that ever since now 8 years later. That first break in period of maybe 30,000 miles is tough on the fluid as it see's a huge cross section of pretty pure aluminium that is highly corrosive. I think thats why there was a TSB on the pumps the aluminum contamination is very hard on the pump. The aluminum heat sink for the coolant is under the Inverter and its pretty cool how the chambers are set up. Impressive heat sink with huge cross section.

You say the pump was replaced but they may have never got all the air out of it. And I can almost guarantee the original fluid was never changed when the pump was replaced. They just duckbill the hoses off and throw a new pump in. Awful.

Given the importance of this pump I would buy a new OEM pump and 2 gallons of Toyoal LLC and replace the pump and put new fluid in it. And bleed it good. New oem pump is like $50 on eBay. LLC is $20 a gallon last time I looked.

The Inverter is the heart and soul of this car. Like alot of things on this car its an Engineering marvel.

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Hey how much weaker is it relative to this???

It was a heck of alot slower. I would flush it with distilled water like 5-6 times and then check the speed you might not even need a pump might just be gunk.
terramir

 

I haven't had this problem, but my guess is that the system is clogged. I personally would just use a garden hose to flush out the system with the drain plug removed. I don't think it is necessary to use distilled water as the system should allow substantially all fluid to come out of the drain hole.

 

I mean fill and turn it to acc a few times and make sure you bleed it as well. One hint it's a heck of alot easier to get the loop going if the pump is still working if the car is level. Put plug in hand tight after drain fill with distilled water cause it will want to disolve impurities in your system with a vengeance, drinking distilled water can kill a person if they drink enough cause it will suck the minerals out of your body. That's in layman's terms but it gets the point across water naturally wants to have something disolved in it. So distilled water will much more aggressively disolve impurities that are water soluble.
If after bleeding the water is moving somewhat wait a few minutes with the loop running, turn off and dump again and then do it over several times hoping whatever is gunk in the system up is coming loose.
And yeah draining the system for like 10 min the last time will ensure the sllc won't get diluted in any way that would matter 3 qts vs a few drops furget about it!
terramir

 

Where the heck do you live that you worry about a -36 c freezing point???
The Arctic circle, Alaska?
terramir

 

You won't just let it drain a few minutes after the last flush. But seriously 1st things 1st get rid of clog then worry about water contamination if need be take 30 min and then dump about 1/2 a liter sllc through the system to take some more water droplets out. But 1st make sure you get it flowing again and even if you have to dump 10 gallons of distilled water through the system. (That would be enough for about 18 flushes.
Or take a waterhose in reverse to the system if worse comes to worse. To do that effectively you'll have to remove the reservoirs though. Solve problem 1st then deal with a little bit of water.
My $.02
terramir

 

Remember that pump cools two of the most expensive parts on this car the inverter and the cvt. And picking up distilled water is easy and cheap housewives need it for their iron and fancy steamers everyday. Flushing the system with $1 water bottles is alot cheaper than $25 sllc. And on another note you gotta catch the sllc because it will kill cats and dogs and they are attracted to it and it's sweet to them. But the water only to check if you found contaminates. Better get it done rather sooner than later. And if you restore the flow you might just see a boost in mpg as well.
terramir

 

Since the OP is concerned about the coolant freezing temp in the winter, I suggest he consider using Toyota LLC instead of SLLC, since the former can be purchased as 100% antifreeze, hence the amount of distilled water added can be based upon expected low temps, and the mix can be as strong as 70% antifreeze/30% distilled water. That will yield a freezing temp of -58 degrees C.

The only problem with LLC is that the change interval spec is 30K miles vs. 50K miles with SLLC.

I believe that current high temps in Finland are above freezing, so it should not be a problem to use a garden hose to aid the flushing. The benefit of that is that you can utilize water pressure from the hose to aid removing any clogs.

But if the OP prefers to buy distilled water for the flushing purpose, that is his business.

 

Well, please go ahead and replace the pump, then.

 

To what extent did you actually flush the system with water?
Would you say that the coolant flow is better now, compared to the flow rate described in your OP #1?
I do not believe that a thermostat is regulating coolant flow.

 

New oem pump is like $50 on eBay.....where???