Visual Differences between updated Intake Manifold

When @NutzAboutBolts was cleaning his 2012 intake, I recall him saying the brush only went in a few inches, at the EGR entrance.

either way, seems like they all clog.

 

I didn't see @wheezyglider post a pic of the new manifold. I would personally post evidence of such.

Again sorry I didn't catch you in time @xliderider .

@burrito I guess it depends how cold it gets wherever you park your Prius. I actually didn't see the other TSB about it affecting knock though....



REVVL V+ 5G ?

 

Thinking it through a little bit, I can see that the passage would probably have to go all the way through, because it does have to somehow deliver the EGR gases to the far 1&2 intake passages at the end of the intake manifold.

Looking down through the "largest, main" passage, I can see that they may have molded in some "shapes" opposite the small intake passage openings near the #4 cylinder, to possibly divert some gases to the nearer passages. In this blurry picture, you can kind of make out a diverter on the left side of the passage, blocking half of the passage, opposite the narrow passage to the engine block intake. That's probably what Nutz About Boltz thought was the end of the passage that was a few inches in.

Sorry, I wish I had a borescope or an inspection camera for better pictures.



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oempartstoyou.com has the -37091 for $204.64. Hmmm. Is it worth a preventative purchase?....

REVVL V+ 5G ?

 

I cleaned the new intake manifold by putting a stopper in the main EGR gas port on the side, then used a plastic transfer pipette to add a 50% Simple Green and water solution into the four egr small ports at the main intake ports till they were coming back out of the small passages, kind of like refilling the Prius transaxle fill port till it starts coming out of the fill hole.

Refer to the picture to see the orientation of the intake manifold to make it possible to fill the EGR passages completely with solution. Then I poured the Simple Green solution into the four intake ports that were facing upward like cups. I let it soak for a day.

What came out when I poured it out was very dark (picture below), not clear green like when it started. Simple Green can clean a lot of oil and greasy residue out, but it really requires scrubbing with a brush to clean surfaces, otherwise, a greasy surface remains.

I then filled the EGR passages with straight drain cleaner and let it sit for a day (sodium hydroxide is used in soap making to convert oils and fats/grease into soap). Coffee colored effluent came out, along with some chunks of brown softened greasy oil. Flushed for a long while with hot water from the tap. Tried agitating the hot water in the passages within, flushed, repeated many times. Took a long time for the water to finally run clear.

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Caustic cleaners are tough on the various threaded and pass-through metal inserts on the intake manifold. If you can manage with brake cleaner, rags and brushes I’d stick with that. Or at least finish with a concerted brake clean flush.

 

I was careful to avoid the inserts, AFAIK the drain cleaner didn't contact the inserts. Also, followed up with copious amounts of water during the flush phase of cleaning.

Knowing how much fouling is seen in the EGR tube before the intake manifold inlet, and at the small EGR passages at the bottom of the intake outlets, I think a thorough cleaning of the inner passages of the intake manifold might be a good idea.

The brake cleaner does remove some of the residue accumulated on the walls of the intake manifold, but like the Simple Green degeaser, it requires some physical rubbing or scrubbing to really get the gunk off. Even with brushing, I found that the Simple Green left a thick oily layer on the plastic walls.

The sodium hydroxide (and potassium hydroxide in the product I used) converts the grease and oil into water soluble material that can be flushed away with hot water.

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I have code prius 2011
P0a0d
P0a94
C1259
C1310
I was driving is slow down to 15mph from 65 then stop
Is turn on but no start not ready or accelerate

 

Pretty clear why dealer mechanics buy a new manifold. Revised and clean. Also an indication why Toyota reengineered it on gen4s.

 

Yeah, easier to charge the customer an arm and a leg for a new one or write it off to Toyota than clean it.

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The best thing is to start your own thread rather than jump into someone else's. However your variety of codes and no Ready point at several possible independent issues at face value. Sometimes red herrings sometimes not. First thing is a verification of 12v over 12.0v at the engine fuse box jump point. Then 12v anywhere in the interior fuse box to verify the 125amp fusible link.

Could be a bad 12v battery. Could be an inverter failure with one of the codes. Could be brake booster with another code. Could have reversed jumped after adding problems. If it was an inverter, do not clear codes, the dealer needs them to get a free replacement. If it is possible that it was reversed jumped, another visual test is using a mini flashlight to inspect the 125a fuse located in the middle of the engine fuse box.

The inverter attachment is from my 2012 v but your 2011 hatchback may have similar coverage

 

I'm going to remove the 17120-37050 intake manifold in our 2011 and install the 17120-37054 intake manifold I cleaned out.

In the meantime, I decided to move the oil catch can to an accessible place. Presently, it's located down by the front crossmember, just aft of the radiator, so it gets pretty hot. It also is only accessible by removing the airbox.

The location I found for it is between the engine coolant reservoir and the engine. I made a mounting bracket out of an L-bracket and some L-shaped aluminum bar stock. It is fastened under an existing bracket bolt holding a couple of AC lines.

The location is opposite from the direction of the PCV valve and the intake manifold inlet from the PCV hose, so I will have to make a U-shaped tube out of aluminum tubing to get the tubing routed.

I will post more pictures when I start removing the old intake manifold and relocating the oil catch can.

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I have the first version 50 and want to update it, so you guys think the version 54 is built the same as the latest version 91

I am planning on ordering the latest 91 version brand new.
Found it for like $206 after that I will sell my recently cleaned by Hybrid Pit intake manifold that is like new.

Are there any internal images of the design changes?


http://www.RedBullet.net

https://ProjectLithium.com/?ref=mG0GE

http://www.Pulstar.com

http://www.PlugOutPower.com
Use code 7373

http://www.hybridpit.com
Use code azusa

 

I think that the 91 part includes the 54 intake manifold and all 3 gaskets.

When you receive the 91 part you ordered, please confirm that the intake manifold is stamped with the 54 part number.

AFAIK, no one knows what internal (if any) changes have been made. I think there are a few internal "baffles" that are molded into the main EGR passage running across the intake manifold in the 54. I'll know more when I take the 50 off and get a good look at it. That's why, in the Nutz About Boltz video, he said that the brush only goes in a few inches. I was able to get a long brush all the way through the main EGR passage with some manipulation, and some resistance.

The only way to really see what changes have been made is if someone gets an xray or other high tech imaging of the 54 vs 5X lower series intake manifold, or perhaps runs a borescope or other imaging inspection camera/video system through the main EGR passages in the intake manifold. Unfortunately, I don't have an inspection camera like that.

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I dont think a revision would change the part number just because of the gaskets, those have their own part numbers.

I will ask them before I order, also I think in the video he is talking about how clogged it is and not the actual changes.

Thats why people think there is no changes between the part numbers but there actually has to be a change in order for the part to have changed its number.

 

Yes, please do let us know what you find out regarding the part number stamped on the intake manifold.

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I'm trying to restrain myself, but have to comment: I don't see much benefit to the revised manifold, besides lightening the lump your wallet makes in your backside. I think Toyota developed it in a vain attempt to mitigate the carbon clogging, and they've backed off on swapping them in as a "solution".

 

Probably all true.

I might just keep my original 50 intake, clean it out thoroughly and keep it for swapping in, like I do with the EGR cooler.

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I don’t know if anyone is still interested in this, but I have the 17120-37091 part number on order due to issues I’m experiencing with my 2010 and T-SB-0103-12. Version 2 says I need an ECM reflash along with the updated manifold. I will be replacing the manifold myself and have my local Toyota shop due the reflash.

If anyone wants to see something specific with this part number please let me know. I’d suspect I’ll be receiving it early next week.

 

I bet you could X-ray/scan the various intake manifolds so we can see what changes are being done inside. X-ray people with home practices will x-ray anything in their off hours, including dogs and vintage guitars. Just need to find one!