Visual Differences between updated Intake Manifold

I believe the T-SB notes 17120-37090 being the key manifold part #, -91 gets you a kit with gaskets. It's listed in the T-SB Rev 2 as "do not replace"....

REVVL V+ 5G ?

 

Great work guys. My 13 never missed a beat in 210K literally nada boring as hale.. then out of no where stumble n miss . Two three times. Then imed no 2 cyl code . Then the fun n part. I had a dealer meccie attempt a head gasket . He bolted up a new HG over a cracked piston crown . Pure ignorance . He just wanted to be paid . Not repair the car. Now tis my mission to keep these kids off touching my vehicles because this is where we are now days . No recourse . Better for me to do . And see it happen . No trust

 

Ok finally got the part in today as it was on back order. I can confirm that the 17120-37091 manifold has part number 17120-37054 stamped into the top runner. It also comes with the three gaskets preinstalled. I don’t have any X-ray machine access but if someone wants pictures of something I won’t be installing until this weekend.

Thanks!

 

That's definitely confusing as that is listed as one of the old part numbers in the T-SB literature....

REVVL V+ 5G ?

 

That's good news to me, that's the part number of the intake manifold I got off eBay from a CT200H for my 2011 hatchback with original intake manifold part number 17120-37050.

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Sounds like you got the old part, I would call them up and start a return and tell them you want the correct part.

 

I agree on confusing as the TSB clearly states the ‘054 part number is a ‘previous’ one. I’ve got an email to the dealership to have them validate what or correct.

 

I think there’s a physical diff is: with the old if you run a bottle brush through the EGR entrance gallery, it’ll go almost the full width, whereas the new one you’re stopped just a few inches in. This is presumably where the gallery splits into two. Probably can see the diff with a light too.

 

Well the parts manager called me back this morning. I confirmed the part number on my box is 17120-37091. He confirmed he ordered the part direct from Toyota. He called a few dealers in the Minneapolis area and the other folks that had the ‘091 part number in stock also had the ‘054 manifold in the box.

He told me he really doesn’t like how Toyota writes their TSBs and they can be very misleading. What he said they do at Toyota when they issue a TSB is to check or validate a part meets their criteria and then will update the part number and ship it out.

My new manifold has that wire mesh below the throttle body and looking at the other post linked in this thread I wonder if they are retrofitting fixes onto existing ‘054 part numbers and then boxing up the part as a ‘091 manifold.

At any rate it looks like we’ve had a few folks order this part number and receive a ‘054 manifold so that’s what I’m going to put on. I can take pictures of the new and old manifolds if anyone has something specific they’d like to see.

 

Did you do the check in post #48?

 

Yeah I’ve got a borescope at my parents place I was going to grab and look down the egr tube. I can certainly see some moldings in the plastic down the hole but it is hard to get a decent picture from my phone. Let me see what I can dig up this weekend.

 

This is as good as I can get with the phone

 

Wonder what happens if one tries to order 17120-37090, which the T-SB says includes the update?... (Shrugs shoulders)...

EDIT- At this point over a year since I found the Rev 2 I'd subscribe to Toyota Techinfo and try to sort it out before ordering this expensive part.

REVVL V+ 5G ?

 

What’s the motivation for ditching the OEM intake; presumably to not have problems?

@NutzAboutBolts had significant carbon/gunk with his 2012, which I believe has this intake.

 

I cleaned mine this summer along with the exhaust cooler thing. Installed OCC at the same time. Now this winter the intake underneath the throttle body had oily water buildup and no start condition. Got to tow my kids home in -20F weather.
Check hybrid lights all came on and computer complaining about:
P0102 mass airflow low input
P0113 Intake air temp circuit high
P2111 throttle actuator control system stuck open

Local Toyota dealer diagnosed MAF was unplugged (my fault) and P2111 related to the TSB in this post.

 

Finally getting the new manifold in. There are two differences I can see. New manifold has a wire mesh around the throttle body housing, and inside the EGR passage there are certainly some channels or deflectors where as the old manifold is pretty open all the way through.
I can’t get a good picture with my inspection camera or my phone because there is nothing to focus on inside the old manifold egr passage.
I attached what I could get. Hope it helps someone. For reference my old manifold is part 17120-37050.

 

Thanks for the pictures. That's exactly what I have, same two part numbers, going from my original 2011 intake manifold and the intake manifold from a CT200H I got off eBay.

I saw the same internal baffles molded into the newer IM's main EGR passage, as you found.

It is not a "tournament design".

FWIW, I never got around to taking the car in for reprogramming of the ECU after installing the newer intake manifold, and installing an OCC. The cars been running fine. And so far, at about 130k miles, has not started consuming oil (knock on wood).

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One thing I found strange is that my occ was completely full of water. No idea what was up with that. I thawed the stainless mesh out and reinstalled everything. Certainly couldn’t have helped my situation at all.

 

It's been reported that when cold weather sets in, the OCC catches mostly water.

Here in Hawaii, it's almost all oil, or any water present vaporizes out of the oil and does not end up in the catch can.

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If you guys are like me and have a oil burner keep the RPM below 3000. I don't have oil in my intake anymore almost at all. 4000-mile oil changes now and I burn around 6/10th of a quart. Those meshes and screens are designed to baffle and clog before other points. They will still need to be cleaned but hopefully, you won't suck in a large amount of oil at one time to get a knock as it will get caught at the screen.

I would recommend to everyone to try keeping RPMs down for an oil change and at least try it and check back (and start keeping track of oil in vs oil out at all oil changes). Peak BSFC range is 3000 RPM and down too so it mostly ties into my hypermiling efforts anyways.

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