Warnings lights: (!), ABS, brake. Codes: (!) 65, ABS 42

didn't you just post that all was well?

anywho, if your 12v is really at it proper voltage, why not tell us what the proper voltage is?

 

And if you waited overnight to do the battery test.

 

Have you looked up what the ECB code 65 means for a Gen 2 yet?

I'm pretty sure the ABS 42 just means "hey, there's an ECB code, go check that."

However, my techinfo subscription's not paid up at the moment, or I'd look up the 65 for you; in a second gen I'm not sure what that one is offhand.

-Chap

 

ECB 65 is equivalent to C1344 - Malfunction In Hydraulic System (Rear Left). If you could get the sub-code (could be 581-585), it would help pinpoint the fault.

Here is a link to the workup for the group of codes that includes that one:

Diagnostics – ECB – C1341 -C1344

 

More likely both methods were not up to the task. If you have the (!) light on, you have a code to be read.

It may not be noticeable. The malfunction could be that the piston is not applying pressure to the calliper on the left rear.

 

12.3v is borderline low. many people are not aware that a new 12v is actually 13+ volts fully charged, and that is what the computer parameters include. when you go to put the car in ready, the voltage drops even lower due to the system load, and can confuse the computers.
depending on how old yours is, you may want to try charging it and checking it regularly, or replacing it with new, making sure it is fully charged before installing.

 

While what is stated here is mostly true:

• 12.3 V is low;
• most people are not aware that a fully charged battery, depending on the type, is in the region of 12.9 - 13.2 V;
• when you go to put the car in ready, the voltage drops even lower due to the system load;

the load on the start up pulls the voltage ~1.5 V down momentarily, so anything where the standing voltage is less than 12 V gets into the territory of "problematic". Some ECUs can start to see the voltage as a problem when it is in the 10.5 V or lower region.

Again most people do not realise the high current draw, albeit fleetingly brief, when the (Gen II) Prius goes through the start up cycle.

It is for these reasons that the posters are advised to check the 12 V and ensure it is a) charged up and b) checked that it can hold its charge under load.

I would caution the proliferation of advice that gives the impression that a "bad" 12 V battery is the cause of all that ails a Prius. In a lot of cases, it may be a factor that does not aid troubleshooting, it is not often the root cause of the problem(s).

When giving advice, please be sure to explain what it is that could possibly be the cause so that people get a full understanding of what is really the cause.

Further, it is just bad advice to recommend to people to purchase a new 12 V battery just because it is old or the standing voltage is low. It may turn out they need a new battery, but unless proper tests and cheaper remedies have been tried and not worked, it is an expensive remedy to just replace these AGM batteries on a whim, given how much they cost. Much easier to advise when it is not your money.

 

Searching techinfo is never a splurge.

Ok, it would be a splurge, for me to feed it another $15 just to look up your codes. I'm generous, but there have to be limits. But for you to look up your codes, it's pretty cheap.

I don't know what you'd call your going hourly rate, but I'd assume "the better part of (your) free time yesterday" is worth more than $15 (not counting the extra confusion I often see in PriusChat threads when somebody has googled up a code description that is for some other car or model year, or is unhelpful or just plain wrong).

A lot of alternative problem-solving strategies I see people coming up with instead of reading the manual seem to have price tags starting higher than $15....

-Chap

 

i can't agree with most of this, only because in most of these cases, we never get a clear answer to the health of the 12v.
and while it's true that the 12v is not usually the problem, it is the place to start because it is a fairly easy check for a newbie.
if they can't figure out how to check the 12v health, or refuse to go to the trouble, only giving the answer that they 'tested' it and it is fine, how are they ever going to go beyond that to reading trouble codes, going to the service manual, and beginning the troubleshooting process?

and i don't agree that replacing a 6 or 7 year old battery just because of its age is a bad idea, even though it is possible to get a few more years out of it.
that is fine for the experienced owner, who regularly checks the health, understanding the ramifications.

 

I never said that the reason not to replace a battery was to get a few more years out of it, it was as you even said:

Nevertheless, if it is too hard or they won't or can't follow simple instructions then they can't be helped.

It is still no reason to jump to conclusions not supported by the evidence and recommend they change their 12 V battery anyway. Is all I'm saying.

 

peace brother, you know way more about these beasts than i do. i'm just trying to help people out. sometimes i succeed, sometimes i fail, sometimes they are their own worst enemy.

 

Peace to you too brother, I didn't mean to sound aggressive, I apologise if I came across that way.