Sure they do, but they're only available as a finished sub-assembly. It may not be budget-friendly, but that isn't the same as unavailable.
I wouldn't expect a stereotypical California driver to notice the difference. Because there, there isn't one. Here, particularly post-Pandemic, the difference is rapidly diminishing. And not because the BMW drivers are improving. :-(
Its a 3 in 1 part with the accumulator and DC motor being no more than $150 each. The aluminum block is very strong and does not wear out. All it needs is a new gasket, if needed. For $1100 vs $200 in parts, it might as well not be available lol. The DC motor and accumulator are simply bolted on too.
Its a 3 in 1 part with the accumulator and DC motor being no more than $150 each. The aluminum block is very strong and does not wear out. All it needs is a new gasket, if needed. For $1100 vs $200 in parts, it might as well not be available lol. The DC motor and accumulator are simply bolted on too.
Actually, it is the diaphragm that usually begins leaking I believe. It is a critical part and sold as an integral unit due to safety. If one wants, they can use a salvaged one or Dorman used to manufacture/refurbish somewhat cheaper units.
ABS Control Module | 587-765 | Remanufactured ABS Pump Assembly | Dorman Products Years ago I had to replace our 2008 Prius Brake Actuator.
The accumulator is no more safe than brake pads. The one used in the highlander is of a metal bellow type, not diaphram. Behind the diaphram is nitrogen so once that leaks the part is no good. Unless one can seal it and recharge it.
The Prius ABS module new from the dealership is about $800 and the Highlander Hybrid is about $1100. This is just too expensive for the parts that needs to be replaced. The ABS DC motor just needs 3 new carbon brushes which is around $10. And the accumulator needs a new charge of nitrogen and seals replaced for another $20. But of course you need specialized tools to do all of that.
Just sharing, our first 2003 Prius had an unrepairable failure of the brake booster in 2016. I got a replacement at a junk yard but could not fit it into the replacement location. It was mounted on the engine bay, firewall, behind the A/C and cabin heating pipes, and behind the engine block. That 2003 Prius (sedan style) had reached the end of life. It had also developed the flywheel oil seal leak which eventually would render the torque limiter useless. With nearly 15 years of cabin use (and abuse,) it was hauled off with a perfectly useful battery pack. Bob Wilson
In component level electronics repair we always called it shotgunning the problem. The difference was the ammo was cheap. Nothing new. Honda transmissions back in 2002 cost $5k and dropped like flys. Get some car insurance that includes towing like USAA. You don’t call the cardiologist’s appointment service when you are having chest pains. The best if you want the parts cannon approach to repair. Generally their techs are not that good at tricky electrical issues. It helps to buy the right brand to start with, eg a Toyota rather than a Dodge/Chrysler/Mercedes. The Op wants a used Prius brake booster in his Highlander. This is an area were you pay for the right part installed properly. It’s not the hybrid premium - it’s life insurance. Buy hybrids or evs new and sell by 150k miles - get the payback without the pain.
funny you'd make that analogy - as a couple years ago - paramedics took me to the ER for A-fib ... 2 heart valves out of normal rhythm. Over an hour later the cardiologist saw me, but not before the filling out of forms insurance Etc. .
I get what youre saying but I don't want to get rid of this cars since it's been in the family since new and selling it would be a loss in this sense. The car is a 4500lb beast and still looks good. It makes for a good back up vehicle for hauling, driving, and cheap maintenance and taxes. I am making quite a bit of stride in repairing the ABS DC motor, not the brake booster. The accumulator may be the only part that I cannot repair since it requires nitrogen and seals in which I have to cut to get into. But its not too bad in terms of pricing to replace.
I think its worth it to spend the time to learn how it works and how to repair. Its good engineering. The difficult part is manufacturing lol.
I think its good to learn how it works and how to repair. The DC motor is surprisingly used in many other things. The difficult part is manufacturing parts lol.
That doesn't solve the problem. Will insurance, after towing your car to a mechanic, also tow your car for free to another mechanic for that second opinion? This opens up another can of worms. More and more, tow insurance is becoming worthless. Ever since the pandemic, if you call your insurance asking for a tow you might get a tow truck several days later while you freeze to death at the top of a mountain pass. Or you just get fed up and call the tow company and pay for it yourself. Ask me how I know. And I've seen it happen several times.
Some, such as the AAA premium gold pro++ or whatever it is called give you a certain number of miles and incidents. They don't really care how you use them. So yes, this would work for garage-shopping. They all have fulfillment problems in some markets. That won't get better until terms are periodically renegotiated between the sales side and the fulfillment side.
If you have a high mile Prius you get your ducks in a row about shops before you need them for a serious job. Shop on the simple stuff first. Don’t be afraid to drive an hour.
True. AAA gives you three, up-to-100-miles tows per year IIRC. But it's still complicated. Your car breaks down, it's towed to a mechanic shop, you're quoted $9,000 to get it repaired... And now you need to have AAA Premium so you can have it towed to a second or even third opinion and just hope that you can get it for some sort of reasonable price, not to mention they'll probably not be able to get to it for another month. To me, owning a car is becoming more of an expensive, risky chore than a practical, yet exciting, endeavor.
I'm not even talking about high mileage cars. Cars with even 100,000 miles or less are fair game for a catastrophe awaiting. Once it's out of warranty you have no idea what could happen or how much it could cost anymore.
If I felt that way about my Toyota I would pay Toyota Financial $1200 for a zero deductible with towing Platinum 7 year 125k mile warranty sometime before my factory 3 year 36k mile bumper to bumper expired. Then buy a new car when that best in class extended warranty expired.