What else to do during EGR cleaning?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by SB6, Jul 6, 2020.

  1. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    I know the info is out there here on Priuschat, but there's just so much to read through. I think the fact that we're not able to go back and edit posts indefinitely, makes it harder to compile everything together. I'm definitely slowly reading through it, but it'll take time.

    Anyways, I was hoping for some advice about what else to try to tackle, and how to go about doing it. I'm going to be replacing my engine coolant, inverter coolant, and my water pump, so I thought I'd work on cleaning stuff out while I have the coolant already drained. I'm planning to clean my EGR pipe and cooler, intake manifold, throttle body, and replace my PCV valve, before refilling my coolant. I'm planning to use NutzAboutBolts's videos. I'm also hoping to install an oil catch can, but I don't have access to a 3D printer to print the bracket used in NutzAboutBolts's video. Can I use zip ties or something for now? Or can I buy the bracket from somewhere?

    The car has 150k miles right now. Anything else I should tackle while I have the coolant drained, and while I have these parts out? Any sensors I should clean/replace, like the coolant thermostat, the MAP sensor, or the MAF sensor? Also, whats the best order to do everything I'm planning to do? I've never done any of this stuff before, but I think I should be okay with the videos.

    Another question: In NutzAboutBolts's EGR and EGR Cooler Cleanings video, he links the spark plug replacement video in the description. Any specific reason he does that? Should I also be changing my spark plugs while doing this? It didn't seem to me like the spark plugs are made more easily accessible while doing these cleanings, but I might've missed something.

    If/when I do change my spark plugs, how do I check the coils to make sure those are good? What else should I check while doing the spark plugs?

    Sorry for all the questions; I don't know much about cars, but I'm starting/trying to learn by doing my own maintenance/repairs. That, and I probably can't afford to pay to have all these things done :LOL:
     
    #1 SB6, Jul 6, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2020
  2. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Spark plugs are paired as the windshield wiper cowling comes off and since you're there, why not pool jobs;).

    As for the catch can, you appear to be top mounting it. It can wedge into place and be fine:).

    That's what I've done to our Primes catch can and it is holding up fine in place(y).
     
    #2 Raytheeagle, Jul 6, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2020
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  3. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    Oh, didn't notice that the cowl is taken off for the EGR clean. Must've missed that.

    Where did you wedge the catch can? Got a picture?


    Any info on how to check coils when I replace my spark plugs? Also, should I be cleaning/replacing any sensors like the coolant thermostat or the MAP/MAF sensors?
     
  4. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Here's where I put it on our Prime:):

    FBF25733-1EA7-4A4B-972C-F27B2AA77C0E.jpeg

    The engine bay is different on the gen3, but you can do a similar thing just behind the drivers headlight;).

    Clean the MAP and MAF sensors with MAF sensor cleaner. The coils I wouldn't think there are any issues with(y).
     
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  5. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    I'm not sure I'm looking in the right place in your picture :unsure:... is your oil catch can the black cylinder with the 2 hoses, next to the coolant reservoir? And "above" the hood latch?
     
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  6. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    It is right behind the radiator and left of the inverter coolant reservoir;):

    58174E96-BD4C-49AB-A499-5F0D82453B7A.jpeg

    I flipped the pic to make it easier to see:).

    Unfortunately the plug for the top of the can was missing and had to improvise a bit:whistle::

    A4EE87DA-C9CA-48E2-B2CD-5588BE026F30.jpeg

    Works and was a $1 solution to the problem(y).
     
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  7. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    Thanks! I think I see it. I'll have to take a look at my engine bay to see where I might be able to wedge the can

    Nice :LOL:. I guess if it works, it works. Is that the catch can that lets you put a filter on it?
     
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  8. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Use the spot behind the drivers headlight as others have shoved rags and other things like a coozie for your been can to help secure it;).

    I bought the type that could have a filter on it, but I bought it about 6 months before installing it:whistle:.

    When I asked the company that sold it to me for a different lid, they said it didn't look like their lid, so how do they know it's theirs:cool:.

    So the bolt did the trick and is still working out well(y).
     
  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    To address the question in the title of the thread: I wouldn't do any extras. You will have your hands full doing a thorough cleaning of the EGR/intake.

    It's relatively easy to remove the wipers and cowl, any time.

    The EGR/intake cleaning can also be done without (ultimately) spilling a drop of coolant: the throttle body coolant lines don't have to be pulled off, and if you preemptively drain 2 quarts of coolant into a clean container, you won't spill any with EGR cooler removal. Just pour the drained coolant back into reservoir when done.
     
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  10. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Coming around I see:).

    Just takes time (y).
     
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  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    In the good old days, step one of spark plug replacent was pull off the wires and back out the plugs. :cool:
     
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  12. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    In those days you could actually stand in the engine bay to work on it:p.

    At least in the Dodge Power Wagons of yester year you could:):

    1D720F72-B44C-41BF-ACCA-2B5261100C85.jpeg

    And that has a 360 c.i. bored out to 440;).

    Those were the days(y).
     
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  13. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    Well... I wasn't able to get the EGR cooler & valve done this last weekend... I drained the engine coolant, got the new engine coolant pump on, got the EGR pipe clean, got the intake manifold relatively clean (what's the best way to clean the intake manifold, by the way?), cleaned the throttle body, changed the PCV valve, and replaced my spark plugs. However, the cooler was just way too difficult to even remove...

    I still have everything apart from this weekend... I'm hoping I can get it done this coming weekend. Hopefully I'm able to put everything back together. All those bolts and hoses can make a person's head spin :unsure:. I may have already mixed some bolts up :(.

    I had a question about this bolt NutzAboutBolts mentions at 9:49 in his EGR cooler video. It's not clear to me where exactly the bolt he's referring to there is. Can someone clarify?
     
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  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Brake cleaner and brushes should suffice. We recently got a two-set of brushes intended for cleaning stainless steel drinking straws, and I had dibs on one right away: they're perfect diameter for cleaning the small-diameter EGR passages in the intake manifold; there's one per port. Start the brush into the passage, then tuck in the brake cleaner straw, give a squirt, continue the brush in, work it a little, very effective.

    I've also let the intake soak in an Oxi-Clean solution, but in hindsight that's maybe overkill, not really necessary, and doesn't clean the relatively rough interior surfaces any better. Also, you want to clean and blow dry it very throughly after oxi, it can cause oxidation on the metal inserts on the intake manifold, and/or on any bolts/studs passing through or screwed into it.

    The EGR cooler has a bracket on the underside, that pushes onto the stud, then a nut goes onto the stud to secure it. It's very hard to reach, even to SEE. If you kinda lay across the engine bay, and reach your left arm around back of the EGR, you can just get a finger tip on it. Maybe...

    I found loosening the cable brackets to the right of the cooler (viewing from front of engine bay), then tying cord to them, pulling them out of the way, helps a little for access.

    Food for thought: I've recently removed that nut and stud, even though I'm not even doing the EGR presently. And I'm leaving them off. It took me a solid hour, in particular backing out the stud, which felt near-seized.

    In your case, just concentrate on getting the nut off, then you're ok. It's tough, requires you playing around with various extension lengths, regular vs long sockets, to get sweet-spot length. A ratchet with a flex-angle head helps. There's a coolant hose going into the cylinder head, about 1" diameter (with braided cover IIRC). As you're facing the right side of the cooler the nut is just around 3 o'clock beside that hose.

    The EGR cooler bracket that pushes onto the stud is highlighted in yellow:

    upload_2020-7-14_7-16-42.png
     
    #14 Mendel Leisk, Jul 14, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2020
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  15. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    Hmm that may be the one I was looking at towards the end of my attempt last weekend, but I was having trouble actually getting my wrench to reach it. I may have to borrow some extensions from a friend.

    Is it this type of brush?
    [​IMG]

    By this, do you mean the 4 big oval shaped ports? Around which the red (I guess if it's the original Toyota part) gasket goes? Or is it a port inside those oval holes? Or something else entirely?

    What is the intake, or at least the ports, made of? It felt different from the material the EGR pipe was made of, so I was hesitant to get rough with it
     
  16. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Yeah you need mondo extensions, try regular and deep sockets too. It's just that there's a limited range of length that'll fit in the space to the right; you're hitting cables and brackets. I forget what I used but being able to adjust length in small increments is paramount.

    On the intake there's four oval port openings, and on the edge of each there's a small diameter orifice: those are the EGR passages. A skinny brush is good.

    Here's what I'm using, the one beside the pencil. Well another one, out in the garage.

    IMG_2817.JPG
     
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  17. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    I had ordered a gasket, #22271-37010 (Fuel Injection Throttle Body Mounting Gasket), mistaking it for the Q-shaped red gasket that goes in the hole where the EGR connects to the intake. It was only about $4.50, but I'm wondering if I can use it, or if I should try returning the next time I'm at the dealership. I don't think I've seen the same gasket on any of the parts I removed, so I'm guessing it won't be useful to me.

    By the way, what's the correct part number for the Q-shaped red gasket between the intake and the EGR? Should I bother replacing it? The old one seems alright, but I really have no frame of reference.
     
    #17 SB6, Jul 21, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2020
  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Maybe depends on age and miles. I had our intake off at 70k kms, then again around 85, haven't replaced any gaskets. They all looked fine.
     
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  19. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    I replaced them on my first go round with our old 2010:).

    But then said "meh" going forward;).

    Not as necessary as you might want to spend money on(y).
     
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  20. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    So... I still have the car apart :(. Wasn't able to work on the car last weekend due to a family issue that came up. Got back to it today.

    Went back over the intake manifold with a straw cleaner brush. Tried CRC Brakleen, which may or may not have helped with the tiny EGR passages. However, it didn't seem to be doing much for the rest of the intake manifold. I sprayed the EGR passages as well as the main oval intake ports with a garden hose (on the nozzle's Jet setting), and saw a bunch of small carbon/gunk pieces come out with the water.

    Am I correct in thinking that the interior surfaces of the intake manifold are normally smooth, but the deposits are what gives it that rough feel?

    I tried letting some water and 9% vinegar sit in the intake manifold for a while, before going at it with an old toothbrush. Not sure if it helped, but then I rinsed it out and let some OxiClean and water sit, as the interior surface still felt rough in many places (although I could feel a few small areas were now smooth). I went at it with the toothbrush again, but I still feel a lot of roughness. I don't know if it's feasible to get the intake manifold much smoother/cleaner, so I'm letting it dry now, and I'll hopefully put everything back together tomorrow.

    Meanwhile, all evening I've been filling water and OxiClean into the EGR cooler (with the EGR valve plugging one end of the cooler), letting it sit, then pouring it out and refilling. The water is still coming out dark brown... Am I doing something wrong? Will the water eventually come out clearer? I will have to stop soon, so that I can dry everything out and put the car back together. Might have to revisit this cleaning later when I can afford to have the car apart...
     
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