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What happens when the Prius charges the HV battery when the car is parked?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by DG Bear, Oct 10, 2015.

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  1. DG Bear

    DG Bear Junior Member

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    What sequence of events is initiated when Prius decides to charge the HV battery when the car is parked or otherwise at rest?

    I am trying to resolve a problem where the engine begins to shake and knock when the charging process is initiated and immediately stops when the charging process stops.

    I can confirm the cause and effect by monitoring the status display. The charging arrows show energy being directed from the ICE to the HV battery and the battery bars begin to rise above 2 bars. The knocking sound is very similar to a pre-ignition knocking sound except this starts and stops in concert with the HV charging.

    Example:

    Prius in Inspection Mode / Idling at about 1000rpm.

    Calculated Load is 34% without charging (Engine sounds normal)

    Calculated Load is 68% when charging (Engine shakes / knocking sound)

    I'm hoping this information will provide clues to resolve the knocking problem on my 2010 (with over 300K miles) by understand the steps and interaction that occurs when the charging process is in play.
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    whew, that's some serious mileage! all the best.(y)
     
  3. HGS

    HGS Member

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    When was your last spark plug change? The coil/wires and many other things could cause the engine to not run well under a load.

    Is the car "coding"? Any warning lights?
     
  4. David Beale

    David Beale Senior Member

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    MAF and EGR service might help (clean or replace).

    The HSD will run the engine to charge the traction battery when it gets down to a certain level, as long as it's in "ready" and not in "N". Once the charge level is up to a certain level it will stop and shut down the engine again.

    Otherwise, I suggest a search for the "cold start shake" and see what you find there as a possible cause for that.

    The HSD is putting a light load on the engine. Anything in the fuel or ignition systems that is weak might cause what you are seeing.
     
    #4 David Beale, Oct 10, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2015
  5. DG Bear

    DG Bear Junior Member

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    Thanks for the feedback... your help on this problem is very much appreciated.
    This problem had been driving me nuts!

    * There are no check engine codes.

    * I am very familiar with the cold start misfire/knocking problem. This is not that problem. (see the video in the link below for specific examples).

    * The problem started e few months ago as a very intermittent issue that only occurred in certain load conditions. Generally in low speed (7 - 25mph) high torque situations or for a brief period when you let off the gas petal. Now it happens on demand.

    * This problem is easily created at idle each and every time the HV battery drops below 2 bars and requires charging. The engine change is immediate and starts and stops in sync with the extra load of the HV battery charge cycle.

    The problem also occurs when you drive it under load... so it's easy to assume its load related... BUT is does not do it under load when the car is ran from a cold start. There is a window of time ~ less than 1 minute where the car runs with the ICE under load and the (raptor) sound is not present. Once the car is up to temp (or whatever constitutes this delay) the problem is present. Under very heavy loads (~floor the gas petal) the problem is not present or not distinguishable.

    If it is simply load related... what is the solution? What can I do to narrow the issue and fix the problem?

    I am trying to focus on the maintenance mode idle test as this is repeatable and does not involve other driving variables. This is why I am trying to understand what happens then the HV charging process is initiated.

    Do you know any details on what happens when the HV charge process is present?

    Troubleshooting Performed to date:
    * I have cleaned the intake manifold (this was done about a month before this problem surfaced).
    Prior to cleaning the intake manifold the car was shaking and misfiring under certain high torque condition.
    Once I cleaned the intake manifold the problem was fixed and I had no more check engine incidences and the shake was gone.


    * I have two (2) 2010 Prius cars. I have swapped the following parts with the working 2010 Prius:
    No change has made a difference in the problem.
    .
    * Coils and spark plugs
    * VVT solenoid
    * Cam Sensor
    * EGR Valve
    * Injectors
    * MAF Sensor
    * MAP Sensor
    * Evap Control Valve

    The other odd thing is the car sometimes makes a hissing sound. The sound comes and goes. It changes with engine RPM. In the last week it is gone. The problem was present before the sound and it may not be related. I have not been able to determine the source of the sound... several people have tried to find it by checking to exhaust and intake leaks... we simply could not find the source when the problem was present.

    We checked the in the exhaust with a smoke test... nothing. We checked with the propane trick and we checked with carb cleaner looking for intake leaks. We also tried to find it with a stethoscopes and of course we tried with hand, eyes and ears... we could not find it.

    You can see some videos of the issue in my original thread:

    http://priuschat.com/threads/2010-prius-knocking-raptor-sound.157586/#post-2251948

    Thanks so much in advance for your help!
     
  6. DG Bear

    DG Bear Junior Member

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    There is no check engine codes or warning lights.
    I changed the spark plugs and coils to fix another issue about a month before this problem. I have also swapped these parts from a know working Prius to confirm those parts are not the solution. See my post just prior to this on for further details.

    Thanks for you help... this problem is driving me nuts!
     
  7. DG Bear

    DG Bear Junior Member

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    Thanks bisco... Up until this problem started if was running fine (just like my other one).

    Any help or insight is much appreciated.
     
  8. bingee3

    bingee3 Active Member

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    Hissing ,,, vacuum line ?
     
  9. DG Bear

    DG Bear Junior Member

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    I went over all the hoses... could not hear or feel the source. Usually when you have a leaking hose you can find it with propane or by spraying carb cleaner over the leaking area. The leak with suck up the spray and the rpms will increase to denoted the bad area.

    I tried this and could not find it. I sprayed all over the hoses, the intake manifold area with no luck.

    Is this what you had in mind?
     
  10. Redpoint5

    Redpoint5 Senior Member

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    My initial reaction to the thread title is that it isn't possible for the Prius to charge while in park, as it automatically engages neutral. David covered that.

    Sounds like all of the obvious and less obvious things to check have already been done, and thorough testing has been performed. It's very strange that no code is thrown. Worn engine mount perhaps, but that doesn't explain why it's fine when cold. I wonder if it is misfiring, but the sensor that detects knock is defective or not connected properly?
     
  11. HGS

    HGS Member

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    Actually, the Prius charges in Park. It does not charge while in Neutral. That's the way it normally works.
     
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  12. CR94

    CR94 Senior Member

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    It can also charge while stopped in "D" if the engine is running. As far as I know, it does not charge in "R," for the same reason it can not in "N".
     
  13. Redpoint5

    Redpoint5 Senior Member

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    Ah, so it doesn't get put into N when you push park. I had read somewhere that it does. Maybe it is put in N when powered off? I know it's in neutral upon startup.
     
  14. HGS

    HGS Member

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    You sort of have the idea. When in Park or Neutral there is no power to the wheels. During startup (Ready) the car stays in Park and the traction battery charges as needed. There is really only one selection that drivers need use with caution: when the car is in Ready AND in Neutral the traction battery will not charge and will eventually drain the battery too far and require a very special charger from Toyota to fix it.

    I never use Neutral. It's function these days is for car washes, being pulled out from being stuck in the mud or snow, or emergency stopping if the accelerator is stuck to the floor (pushing the Power button while braking during panic stop will cause it to go in Neutral). I'm sure there may be other uses for Neutral.

    Just don't leave the car Ready and Neutral any longer than required. Other than that, the traction battery will always charge as required. I can't see a reason to stay in Reverse for a long time. If the SoC is 40% (low point where it starts charging) and the car is put in Neutral, it won't take too long before a warning message displays, but if the battery is charged way up, it could be a long time before the battery gets too low.

    The Park position is a mechanical lock for the drive train to prevent the car from rolling, and it is sort of "neutral" in that there is no power to the wheels. But electrically, the battery will charge in Park.

    One final comment: When in Ready and the Power button is pushed, the car goes into Park automatically during shutdown. I don't know of a way to cause the mechanical lock for the Park position to be unlocked and all power off (i.e. Neutral). The Prius is not like conventional transmissions with mechanical shifting without Power on.


    Cheers
     
    #14 HGS, Oct 13, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2015
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  15. Redpoint5

    Redpoint5 Senior Member

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    Very good info. I use neutral all the time when coasting down hills since our cars automatically regen when lifting off the accelerator. Feathering the throttle to achieve a strict coast is difficult, and the Prius will run the gas engine when speeds exceed 62 MPH (plug in version). By placing the car in neutral, I can keep the gas engine off (EV mode) while exceeding 62 MPH.

    If Toyota would eliminate the wasteful regen on accelerator lift feature and increase the speed at which the car can travel in EV mode, neutral would not need to be utilized so frequently.
     
  16. HGS

    HGS Member

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    There are some very good posts on PC about using Nuetral while driving. The transaxle is a very complicated system. There is a ring gear, sun gear, and planetary gears. The engine is connected to one of those, and the other two electric motors are connected to the others. I don't remember off hand which is which.

    Long story short, there is an RPM limit on the electric motors. The only way to limit the RPM of the electric motors is to cause the engine to turn when above 42 mph. If you go to Neutral above 42 mph you are over revving the electric motors and they will fail at some point.

    Don't use Neutral above 42 mph to cause the engine not to turn. It is putting too much wear on your transaxle and it will fail.

    If I can find the Posts that explain this in greater detail, I will post it.
     
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  17. Redpoint5

    Redpoint5 Senior Member

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    The PiP is rated to 62 MPH in EV mode, and the motor is disconnected from the axles when in neutral, which is why it isn't over-revved by coasting in N above 62 MPH.
     
  18. HGS

    HGS Member

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    I see. I believe you are probably causing long term damage to your transaxle by not letting the computer control when the engine turns on. Too many rpm of the electric motors will eventually damage it.

    If your engine starts turning at 62 mph, it is probably doing so to slow down the electric motor. That's the same way it works on the GEN 3 Prius I drive (the speed is 46 mph in this case).

    Does your owners manual have any limitations on the use of Neutral?

    But, good luck.
     
    #18 HGS, Oct 13, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2015
  19. DG Bear

    DG Bear Junior Member

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    I assume it has to be in park... otherwise the wheels would start to turn from the torque generated by M1.

    This is a very important feature (charging while parked) otherwise the car could easily kill the HV battery while parked in the driveway with the AC running.

    (I guess there is no way to unpost... it seem the information you posted a little later fully explained this operation... Sorry I did not see that before I posted the above)
     
    #19 DG Bear, Oct 16, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2015
  20. DG Bear

    DG Bear Junior Member

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    Very strange indeed... it seems like the algorithm that detects misfires also works hard to limit how often the check engine light is enabled.
    In the year that I've had these cars I've always had the feeling the software guys were working hard to hide the misfires. It seems this problem is a poster child for this discussion.

    Today I posted a new update on the problem using Techstream that shows a ton of misfires being detected by the engine ECU but for whatever reason it doesn't fire the check engine light. The interesting thing is how it counts up to 75 or 100 per cylinder and then resets to 0. The other interesting part is how it only shows misfire on cylinder #1.

    You can see the details here 2010 Prius Knocking (Raptor Sound) | Page 2 | PriusChat