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Wheel bearing removal tips

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by ddavis, Mar 30, 2020.

  1. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

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    Loosing those bolts could be so bad that probably Toyota just wanted to make sure. It's the same thing on stuff like brake caliper bolts. But if you broke a wrench it's not because of thread lock. That thread lock is not that strong.
     
  2. oldtechaa

    oldtechaa Active Member

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    Well, no, but combine 113 lb-ft of torque, thread lock, 240000 miles and 12 years of corrosion, and one pipe on the handle of a socket or wrench, and things snap surprisingly easily.
     
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    There's no thread lock indicated in the Repair Manual, for the brake caliper mount bolts or front suspension bolts. Also, some thread lock agents, say Permatex Red are pretty much permanent, require torch heat to break the bond.
     

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  4. George W

    George W Active Member

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    After reading through this thread, I'm just going to take my Prius and hub assembly to, "Bring your own parts". $149 plus tax
     
    #24 George W, Apr 1, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2020
  5. George W

    George W Active Member

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    Thank you for posting those. I recently replaced my brake pads and this document has shown me that I'm missing the anti-squeal shims.
    I tried to purchase Brake Hardware from Toyota, and they said they did not sell that separately, I'm supposed to reuse the old Hardware( can't do that when previous work lost them). I used Brake Quiet on the back plates and hope that I didn't screw something up.
     
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  6. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

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    Somehow I though you ment hub to knuckle bolts. Only the high torque number meade me realize what you meant. I don't think any Toyota has thread lock on those bolts. But with rust thread locker can act a bit like anti seize and slow down the rusting.

    Ok. So it was just another car that I was thinking. But anyways thread lock used by oems is mostly pretty weak so it wount cause problems when opening.
     
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  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    They do spec thread lock for pcv valve threads, and a few other similar cases. Typically to prevent leakage I think.
     
  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Maybe they misunderstood your question somehow? I believe there's a part number for a pad set, a part number for a shim set (which includes a little packet of gray shim grease), and one for the 'fitting kit' (the little slippery clips that hold the ears of the pads in the bracket).

    Or were they thinking hardware for the rear drum brakes? I thought that was orderable too.
     
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  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    About 7 years back I bought (3rd gen) rear pads and shim set. Two separate part nos as @ChapmanF said. This was through dealership parts dept.
     
  10. George W

    George W Active Member

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    I don't want to fix what's not broken so far the brakes have worked fine. When I was Googling YouTube videos, majority don't show both sets of shims, and is why I missed that when I decided to DIY.

    now I'm going to be OCD about it. :mad:
     
  11. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

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    Shims on the back of brake pads are for anti-squeal. Most of aftermarket pads will come with different style ones or even without them at all. I don't see a reason to take it apart for that.
     
  12. George W

    George W Active Member

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    If you refer to the diagram which Mendel Leisk so graciously provided, #1 and #2 anti-squeal shim are shown. The disassembly lists both, in order, not one or the other. One more thing. I asked my local Toyota Parts counter if the shims were supposed to come with the pads.They said no

    Am I reading the instruction wrong? Thanks.
     
  13. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

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    Yes. I'm talking about them. Just tried to say it like that cause lot's of people call those clips that brake pads slide on as shims also. Toyota calls them "brake pad support blates" and they come in fitting kit.

    So if you took them from old pads did you just take one of the two? Just the outer one? Toyota brake pads normally don't come with anything. So you have to buy the brake pads, shim kit, and fitting kit when replacing the brake pads. But many people just reuse the clips after cleaning them and just throw the shims away if there bad enough.
     
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  14. George W

    George W Active Member

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    One set was missing, the Ser identified in the IPB as #1 anti-squeal shims. This is the hardware the parts counter claimed they didn't sell.
     
  15. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

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    All anti-squeal shims come in shim kit. 04945-20210 is the Toyota part number.

    But I think you're fine without it. I wouldn't do anything to it.
     
  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    One nice thing about having them sold separately is that I sometimes end up replacing the fitting kit (those slippery support plates) and no other parts of the brakes.

    They're cheap, they come from the factory with a kind of dry teflon-like coating (no grease on those, it would just collect road grit). Sometimes they can be cleaned up and reused, but eventually rust roughens them up enough that the pads won't slide freely in them.

    All the other brake parts last and last. I've only changed pads once in any Prius I owned, and that was because I had skipped an inspection and let a small correctable problem mess them up.
     
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  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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  18. ddavis

    ddavis Junior Member

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    Hey all. I'm still in the midst of this. One of the boots on my Mevotech ball joints popped and I had to wait for a replacement. I thought getting greaseable ball joints would be an upgrade, but I'm questioning that decision. Anyway, right now I'm having a hell of a time getting the nut tightened on the ball joint that connects it to the knuckle. It seems to be 19mm or 3/4", but torquing it down is a bear. I seem to be either slipping from the base or smashing the castellated portion. Does anyone have any tips I might try?
     
  19. Aegean

    Aegean Active Member

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    One think I remember when I took the ball joint off was that I did not have enough leverage to put force to unbolt it. I ended up using one of the wheels to bolt on the hub on the exterior of the wheel and keep it steady. Now to torque the ball joint onto the hub and according to specs, I couldn’t use my torque wrench and I did it just by feel with a 17 or 19 open wrench.
     
  20. ddavis

    ddavis Junior Member

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    I'll give that a shot. I'm honestly not even trying to really torque it, just get it tight enough that I can install the cotter pin. Once I can do that, I can put the car back together and put this difficult job behind me.