Which physical modules are Battery Block Vol - V01 ?

Question is same as title

Which physical modules are Battery Block Vol - V01 ?

I searched "Battery Block Vol" here and got two hits lol

Ok i found this,. is this correct for a 2008 ?

 

722 am Wife calls, red triangle, wont move
I respond with techstream and my cape to 6 miles away where car is at.
pa080
I open HV data and record a bit using free cam
Reset all errors tell her to drive it to work
810 am I am back uploading the video

Appears one of the modules in VOL 1 is running low voltage
Plan for this afternoon when she returns, if she returns

1- Dismantle car expose pack

2- Remove pack cover in car

3- Test voltage of mods 1 2 3 4, VOL 1, VOL 2, expect to see one of the two mods in VOL 1 as low voltage

4- If confirmed, start car place in neutral, so pack cant charge, run HV battery as far down as I can prior to pulling the bad module.

5- Replace module after draining replacement to 6 volts, and re-inserting a half-amp hour

6- Run my west mountain on the remaining modules and pull them down to 6 volts, and chase that process with the x1 pro unit inserting one-half amp hour into each of the 27 mods. This to balance the pack.

7- Replace cover, see if car will go in ready, monitor and record HV BATT in techstream and let it charge, and cycle

8- re-assemble car.

Should take a few hours.

Toyota should be able to do this, but they cant

HOWEVER, IF LOW VOLTAGE FROM STEP 3 IS NOT CONFIRMED
Assume there may be a problem in BMS, wiring bad, loose connections at module etc reporting false info, OR, module tests fine except under high load

IF no low voltage, drain - charge - drain mods 1 2 and 3 (3 added for comparison)
IF they all look good
Either car is getting bad volt info
Module is still bad but only under load
Go from there

I'm just glad she didnt buy the extended warranty from me, this is all billable and our 22'nd anniversary is saturday. I can use her money to get her something nice

 

1- I have a pack ready to go, not needed here
2- yes mine is 05 hers is 08
3- followed her to work, OR i can be in the barn, moving the last 100 bales off the trailer so i can get it out and the horses in out of the heat and flies, priorities
4-there was no additional code, and SHE is the one that said it would not move, when i got there, triangle, but ready worked and it moved.
5- went into techstream, did health, then cleared the MIL, then opened the HV to do the video
6- yes fresh full rebuild in june
7- wireframe, only thing done to this vehicle as far as hv parts, changed the modules, all else is replacement from the 2008 car itself.

the IRs are all 19
they are always 19 on that car when i checked it after rebuild and test drive, they may go up as car is driven and pack heats up, then they go right back down
they were low 30's when cold on the pack i replaced

 

I dont think she can afford to buy another pack from me, she should have paid for the extended beyond 30 day warranty on that pack in june

 

She's at work and can't answer her phone, so I left her a message...

"We’ve been trying to reach you about your car’s extended warranty. Your warranty coverage is about to expire or may have expired. Due to the uncertainty of the pandemic or some other financial uncertainty in your life, it may be a good time to purchase a new warranty protection plan for your vehicle.”

 

This is probably the issue right here, mixed a 2004 into that 2008 pack, module 2 in my pack is in that VO1 bank
note in file "battery 2 temporarily replaced with a 2004 module I reconditioned 3 years ago and tossed in a box, all others are 2008"

not covered under my warranty

 

Battery is out on the counter, 2 - 28 are 2008, number 1 is a 2004 or 5, its a F
First glance using a meter for volts and resistance, ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to be found between the 28 modules, they look just fine
Of course a capacity test will reveal all, however, watch the video and focus on VO1
Obvious it is mod 1 or 2 in VO1
Most likely 1, the non 2008.
Testing begins now....

 

Cleaned nice and shiny less than 2 months ago

 

Yeah, even though the Prius didn't ID the problem, I did
Module 1 the 2004
This is why I put the car in neutral and used the Prius to burn the modules down, so I could speed test them when I got them out.

 

Ah on the first 8 mods drained at 12 amps to 6 volts as they came out of the car
obvious the first one has had it, others look good and even

0.667
2.941
2.836
3.17
2.809
3.011
2.989
2.931

 

have 6 more to drain, about 90 minutes, found two good 2008 modules will pick one of them for a replacement.
car should be up around noon, Had to stop and clean the years of dust out of the CBA heat sink, I am running it twice as hard speed draining and I could smell the dust burning lol. I sprayed windex on the fins, ran it under the sink, used printer paper to slide and dry the fins. Runs cooler now.


0.667
2.941
2.836
3.17
2.809
3.011
2.989
2.931
2.776
3.01
3.043
3.476
2.869
3.23
3.159
3.142
3.071
3.162
3.02
3.172
2.81
3.128

 

So here is the final chart on the drain to 6 volts, again, these were drained in the Prius before removal. Module 1 was actually working in the car with no code.
The car did code PA080 but only after it sat for several days, after starting, it ran 90 miles with no issues or code, only by stressing he pack could a problem even be seen on VO1 modules 1 and 2
I even drove the vehicle HARD passing other cars on a two lane road, up and over a mountain and back again, 15 miles, no codes no issues. (hard enough to get the pack to 122f)
But this module had problems, you can see in the video above, and it would soon leave the car on the side of the road.

So, with the car drained, the other modules exhibit the amp hours that the PRIUS NEVER USES, this is the area that "gets stale" and comes back from a "recondition" which "pushes" the working area back to the left.

The prius only uses a small 2.2 amp hour area within a factory new 6.5 amp hour module.

 

And hot of the tester we have two candidate 2008 modules to replace module 1

Both are similar, both indicate they have gassed in the past and lack 100% water, as depicted both by the steep drop at end of charge and the drop below 6 volts (drops so fast the microchip in the discharger can't sense it fast enough to turn the load off before dropping below 6 volts.)

Either of them is better than what was in there and it was performing just fine, kind of lol, so these will be fine.
( i am told the wife does not need the car today, so we can investigate some other issues in the current pack)

Technically, all I really need to do is insert the replacement, and pump 1/2 amp hour into all 28 modules and the pack could be installed and done, that would take about 3 hours plus 30 minutes to install and button the car up, or, about 2 pm today, not bad since I didnt start opening the car up until around 7pm last night. Fast single module repairs are possible

 

Here is the failed module, 3 amp hours, since the prius works in a small 2 amp hour area, it was still working and giving it all, but it would soon fail completely, next, lets see the worst and best of the GOOD modules

 

HV is in the car it is outside idling charging. I did a second drain to 6 volts at 6 amps and chased the discharge unit up the pack with the charger set at 10 amps and just over half and amp hour 0.600 amps about 10% state of charge. Took only 5 minutes per mod times 28, little over 2 hours

This worked out fine, car started right up, has no choice but to charge up balanced.

Would have done it earlier sun came out so instead I beauty mowed the just hayed field with the dixie chopper