Winter is coming -- 12V question

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by cyberpriusII, Sep 19, 2020.

  1. cyberpriusII

    cyberpriusII Prodigyplace says I'm Super Kris

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    Hmm. Cell coverage. What is that? Actually, some people with I-Phones and Verizon actually can get a signal at my place, depending where they stand. Pretty much anyone else -- nope.

    I also do not think Pep Boys (I thought they went out of business -- none for hundreds of miles anyway) or Auto Zone will install the Prius battery -- even if they did, would not trust them.

    I can get the Toyota battery for $217 (discounted from $240) or I can take a flying leap of faith and get a Duracell from Batteries Plus Bulbs for $200 with a 48-month free replacement. If the Duracell is truly a "plug & play...?" Probably going to be working on the battery this Saturday.
    • Item Number: SLI51PAGM
    • Brand: Duracell Ultra
    • Voltage: 12
    • Format: BCI Group S46B24R
    • Lead Acid Type: Dual Purpose (Starting/Cycling), Starting
    • Capacity: 46AH
    • Cold Cranking Amps: 325
    • [​IMG] Warning: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - http://www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
    • Battery Type: Premium
    • Capacity 20hr: 46AH
    • Chemistry: Lead Acid
    • Cranking Amps: 390
     
  2. donbright

    donbright Member

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    one good thing thats happened in the past 6 years.... lots of youtube videos nowadays about how to replace prius 12v battery step by step.
     
  3. fuzzy1

    fuzzy1 Senior Member

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    I don't see any mention of a vent tube connection. Absent that, it isn't truly "Plug & Play" for a Gen1-3 Prius.
     
  4. M in KC

    M in KC Member

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    The other thing to consider in these times of uncertainty is lead time. Some outlets are better than others. Just because the battery retails for 200 buck, doesn't mean its on the shelf.
     
  5. cyberpriusII

    cyberpriusII Prodigyplace says I'm Super Kris

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    Yeah, a couple of things worry me about the DuraCell, one being the vent. I actually will be heading into work "IN PERSON" in a few minutes and I will be driving by the Batteries Plus Bulbs place, so I plan to stop and take a look at the battery. Funny, if I just walk in and buy it, it will be $245 -- if I order online and pick up in person, I will save $45.:rolleyes:
     
  6. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Well the important thing is don't hurt yourself installing it. I would get some cushions you can kneel on and climb in the hatch and kneel close to that battery well and not extend your arm at all. That way you can use your left arm to drop it in. Its heavy.

    Take a piece of sandpaper and clean both terminals till there shiny. Same with the inside of the battery clamps. Clean them & grease therm and bolt them up.

    Bolt on that neg lead to the battery first before you install it. Like in my picture. Tape over the chassis end of that lead as you want to bolt that in last after the positive clamp is bolted on.

    When done bolting it up install the 2 power leads push them in till they click. Done.

    When you go to start it the first button push will show a dashboard full of obd lights. That's normal. Shut it off and then start it again.

    Oh and take a voltmeter with you so when they slap it on the counter measure it. The closer to 12.6 the better. If its like 12 volts its been sitting a long time. Ask for a fresher battery.

    Good Luck!
     
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  7. fuzzy1

    fuzzy1 Senior Member

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    Numerous places have been doing that in recent years.

    This is called market segmentation. On-line, they must compete against other on-line retailers. But for brick & mortar walk-in customers, considerably less so. This is the same reason walk-in customers for hotels/motels normally pay more than those who shop and book ahead. Same for airlines.

    With vastly more "big data" collection, they are getting closer to being able to offer different prices to each individual person, depending on their price sensitivity and shopping urgency. They don't want to be offering too-low prices to folks willing to pay more.
     
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  8. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    My last yellow top was the same plus there was an online coupon. Check for coupon. Think I paid $165 out the door for my yellow top.
    Took 3 battery's at the counter to find one with a decent charge on it.

    Its now 3 years old and suspect lol....
     
  9. Tim Jones

    Tim Jones Active Member

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    You could check with Craig's list or a Auto Recycler..... but get cheap with a warranty if possible.
     
  10. cyberpriusII

    cyberpriusII Prodigyplace says I'm Super Kris

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    Well, the Duracell is the right size, has the right posts and has the right vent. And, a four-year free replacement warranty and they will install it, but that would boost the price up $15 to $215.

    They had three in stock and said they sell lots of them -- Odd thing. They had an entire wall of Duracell batteries. All of them with date codes -- except for the Prius AGM batteries, none of which had a date code. The sales guy actually seemed baffled that they did not have date codes, esp. since all the other batteries have codes. He did repeat that they sell lots of them and not to worry about the battery having sat around....considering all the Prius rigs I see around, I believe him.

    So, will probably order one up one of these days....there goes $200 and a couple of hours of my time. LOL

    Still want to check the volts -- but I keep forgetting to leave the hood open the night before -- seems someone on this forum recommends that so as to get an accurate reading -- edthefox5??

    I did check the new (well 18 months old) Subaru battery and it reads 12.2v.....and, going wild with my meter, my Amazon basics AA batteries read 1.62V:)
    kris
     
  11. Tim Jones

    Tim Jones Active Member

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    Having the hood up makes No difference.
     
  12. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Hood up? Not me.....

    I always say measure the 12 volts at the front jump point and that’s under the hood but..
     
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  13. Tim Jones

    Tim Jones Active Member

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    I kinda figured that.......
     
  14. cyberpriusII

    cyberpriusII Prodigyplace says I'm Super Kris

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    I may have dreamed it, but something about opening the door to pop the hood in the morning drains some power from the 12v....hmmm, I am sure someone here has posted that more than once -- Bisco -- come on. Fess up.

    So, you only get a true reading by popping the hood open before shutting down the night before....the more I think about this, the more I wonder...
     
  15. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    As long as your dreaming about me I’m good :ROFLMAO:
     
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  16. fuzzy1

    fuzzy1 Senior Member

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    You are not dreaming, someone (not me!) did mention it this year. The idea is that opening the driver side door triggers the brake accumulator pump to fire up, drawing a fairly large current for ten seconds or so, so the battery has no longer been truly at rest all night anymore. It doesn't make much difference, but it is some.

    Popping the hood the previous day, or entering through a passenger door to pop the hood, avoids triggering this pump. Going through other doors will still turn on the cabin lights, but they are negligible compared to the brake pump.
     
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  17. Tim Jones

    Tim Jones Active Member

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    If the battery was so bad that the pump for 7 seconds and a dome light made any difference there wouldn't be enough juice to start the car.
     
  18. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Umm, what car is that?

    My experience is kind of limited to Prii over the last dozen years or so, where I've generally found as long as nothing pulls the battery into the low 7s during a start attempt, it'll end up starting. On multiple occasions I've turned an "oh, [email protected]%&" into successfully driving away, by pulling the brake pump relays, starting the car, then putting them back.

    Naturally, that last part is easier in the generations where those relays aren't inside the ECU....

    ... also, if the battery's that low, the pump run is going to be way longer than 7 seconds ... sounding like a dying windup toy.
     
    #38 ChapmanF, Sep 24, 2020
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2020
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  19. Tim Jones

    Tim Jones Active Member

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    I guess I'm out of the loop on this strategy. I fortunately have a load tester and test all my vehicles at least four times a year. I go out of town or into Houston quite often and don't want any battery surprises. s-l640.jpg
     
  20. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Yes, @bisco mentioned that, and I tested: checked battery voltage first thing in morning, with the hood pre-popped, and got 12.9~. Then opened/closed passenger door (min disturbance method needed to access hood release), then measured voltage again: down around 12.8~.

    Moral of the story: observing voltage can effect voltage. Take-away: it's not the best indicator of battery "health".

    Electronic load testers are better I think. Something like Solar BA9 is what I would get if buying such a tester now. Good to take along when buying too. Though a lot of battery retailers have sim pro level testers, are willing to demo battery's status for you.

    Just voltage doesn't mean that much.
     
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