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Wiring my new subs

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Audio and Electronics' started by iSamurai, Dec 20, 2007.

  1. iSamurai

    iSamurai New Member

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    Well, they've been in for a few days now and sound great! I have them facing towards the rear seats at the moment because there was much more rattling when facing the hatch.

    Thanks everyone for your continued help I couldn't have done this without you guys. It turned out great in the end though, the Prius isn't actually that hard to work with :)

    Presto : I just took off the entire center console to get at the ACC plug but I had plenty of room to work with my hands and it was all pretty easy to take apart/rebuild.
     
  2. Presto

    Presto Has his homepage set to PC

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    What was your method for removing the whole center console? I saw screws on the side, but i couldn't get to them with a standard screw driver. I have to get into centre conosle on my next revision.
     
  3. iSamurai

    iSamurai New Member

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    First, pulled off the cupholders. Under the little black mat inside your center console there'll be two big bolts to remove. I think I may have taken it apart more than I needed to. There's two screws up front near the pull out drawer that may have to be removed (not sure). The two screws on either side of the console are extremly hard to get at and fortunately aren't needed.
     
  4. Presto

    Presto Has his homepage set to PC

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    <slaps forehead>
    The mat! I didn't notice there was a mat there until a few days ago. I was gonna pull it up, too, but there was too much crap in there. Thanks for the info :D
     
  5. BubbaVO

    BubbaVO New Member

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    I'm hopping from one post to the other, but I think it's still relevant here...


    I've got the same set up. I drove home and the first thing I told my wife was , the stereo su*&s. So I ended up contacting Crutchfield. Here's what I got:


    Polk Audio db5251 5-1/4" Component System - I know they handle 6.5 but the rep basically told me to watch out for the height of the speaker in relation to how the stock one is mounted so this would be an easier fit (circuit city indicated the polks at 6.5 were fine) and that since I was installing other goodies I could rely on the tweeter and the smaller woofer for the highs.

    Kenwood KSC-SW1 150W Compact Powered Subwoofer - will put this under the passenger seat - seems like it will be able to move a lot of air

    EFX Amplifier Wiring Kit 8-gauge w/Patch Cord - seems like 4 gauge is way more than necessary

    Blaupunkt THA475 75W x 4 Car Amplifier - seemed like a good compromise since I'm not looking for bust da windows sound, but a really clean and good sounding system

    StreetWires FB8 8-ga. Firewall Bushing

    StreetWires UCT14 per foot 14 gauge Blue/Copper Speaker Wire

    Posi-Products Connector Kit 6 pieces Posi-Tap Assortment

    Anything I should look out for when trying to install all this stuff? I saw that some of you added sound insulation - necessary/nice/placebo?
     
  6. Presto

    Presto Has his homepage set to PC

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    I'd really go back and swap those 5-1/4" with 6.5". With 5-1/4" speakers, you'll still need some kind of adapter to mount them securely. You will have no problem mounting almost any 6.5", clearance-wise. The most you'll need is a spacer. I've had some big speakers in there before; Elemental Design 7Kv.2 6.5" sub-woofer, with a mounting depth of 3.5". They were able to, just barely, squeeze in using a 3/4" MDF spacer.

    The rest of the equipment you have listed looks decent. I would really consider investing in sound deadening. Sound deadening is no placebo. Car audio competitions are not won without a generous application of sound deadening. Dynamat is the one that everyone knows about but it is also the priciest. Here's an explanation of what sound deadening does, that was posted on another board I frequent:

     
  7. zenMachine

    zenMachine Just another Onionhead

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    Ditto what Presto said on Sound Deadening. Really worth it, especially when you're putting in such a high-powered setup.

    However, if you're gonna do SD, better to wait until the weather gets warm enough so that you don't need to use a heat gun. The stuff goes on (and stays on) much better when applied at +70F.