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Yellow Check Engine Light

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by MontyB, Jan 6, 2020.

  1. MontyB

    MontyB Junior Member

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    Good morning:

    Today I had the yellow check engine light appear on my dash. Concurrent with that light coming on I noticed the car appeared to be running rough. At this time I also noticed that the state of my hybrid battery indicator light on the screen was completely white. No blue bars; No green bars. Just pure white.

    I believe it is relevant to mention that this occurred immediately after I had performed the manual forced reset procedure to reset my malfunctioning combination meter. That procedure is: push power button without placing foot on brake; press and hold the info button on the steering wheel while simultaneously flashing the headlights 3 times; finally, place foot on brake and press the power button again. I have had to rely on this reset procedure dozens of times over the last year with no problems arising.

    Side note: my 2008 prius has 210,000 miles on it and has been impeccably maintained, EXCEPT for the combination meter which I cannot justify spending $800 to fix because of the year and mileage also have a 2015 Toyota Tacoma with very low miles. I use the Prius as my daily driver to avoid putting miles on my Tacoma.

    Anyway, I pulled over; shut off the car and did a visual inspection under the hood and noticed nothing unusual. At this time I also looked up the significance of the yellow check engine light in the owner’s manual. It said it could be one of three things: The electronic hybrid system control system; the electronic throttle control system, or the transmission control system.

    When I attempted to restart the car it started right up with no issues and I noticed the yellow check engine light was no longer on; the hybrid battery indicator showed blue bars which soon turned to green bars, and the car ran normally. I then proceeded to drive the car 70 miles home without the yellow check engine light coming back on. The car appeared and appears to run fine now.

    With the car running fine I stopped at my local auto parts store and requested that they run a systems scan. The scan revealed that cylinders 1 and 2 had experienced a misfire (Hence the car running rough).

    If you have ever experienced this before I would appreciate you sharing your experience and what the outcome and/or fix was.
     
  2. davecook89t

    davecook89t Senior Member

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    Other than the 3 you mentioned, there are many other possible causes for your car to throw a check engine light, most having to do with the Internal Combustion Engine and its emission control system. Have you had your spark plugs changed recently? If not, pulling them out and checking their condition would be a good start to finding whether this is likely a one-off type incident or something that will continue to crop up. If the spark plugs are in good condition, you might want to replace your engine air filter and check the throttle body and if necessary clean it with a product that your auto parts store would recommend. If both the spark plugs and throttle body are clean with no carbon buildup, your problem might be as minor as getting a bit of bad gas in your tank at your last fill up.
     
  3. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    If the check engine light was flashing, that is caused ONLY by a severe misfire. If the CEL was clear when you restarted the car, I would venture to say you have a misfire/spark plug issue. I'm not sure there's any other CEL that will clear itself just by turning the car off and then back on again.

    And fill me in on the "manual forced reset" procedure for the combination meter. Is this s procedure from the repair manual, TIS or just something you learned or read about on-line?

    Have you thought about just buying a combo meter from Texas Hybrids and doing the job yourself for about $200?
     
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  4. MontyB

    MontyB Junior Member

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    My Prius has had a complete tune up and I replaced the air filter both within the last four months.
     
  5. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I've never heard of this reset procedure. I believe there is a similar procedure to get into a diagnostic mode for the car, but it doesn't reset the car in any way.

    If you replaced the spark plugs during your recent tuneup, did you use the correct NGK or Denso spark plugs? Were they properly gapped and torqued?

    The battery SOC when it's completely white, usually indicate the car is not in Ready mode, so therefore it's not "on" to show the battery is actually being used. Were you in the middle of your "car reset mode" when this happened?
     
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  6. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    If you are happy to remove and replace your CM (combination meter), you can fix your malfunctioning CM for around $150. See @Texas Hybrid Batteries who offers an exchange service where you receive a refurbished CM with a lifetime warranty and ODO set to your current mileage in exchange for your defective CM.
     
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  7. MontyB

    MontyB Junior Member

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    JC91006, I have been using this combination bypass procedure for nearly a year. I tried to find the link where I learned how to do it, but I am unable to locate it.the misfire occurred on the highway about a mile after I performed the combination meter bypass procedure. Is it even possible to drive the car (especially at highway speed) if it has not entered "Ready mode"? pardon my naive question. I am unfamiliar with the technology.
     
  8. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    You cannot drive the car if it's not in READY mode. From your description of the battery SOC meter being "all white", I don't know when this occurred. As that is a sign of when the car is not READY. I don't believe I've ever seen the battery SOC being all white in ready mode, and I've done a lot of testing on the batteries with my many Prius that I've owned in the past (easily over 10) (draining in neutral, force charging, etc)

    As for your misfires, it has nothing to do with the Combination Meter or a reset of any type. It's purely mechanical and the faults will be in the following areas (maybe there are more, but these are common areas)

    1. spark plugs
    2. ignition coils
    3. bad fuel pump
    4. bad injectors
    5. overheating car
    6. bad head gasket
    7. oil overfill
     
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  9. MontyB

    MontyB Junior Member

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    Thank you for such a thoughtful and thorough reply. I sincerely appreciate it.
     
  10. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    If the check engine not flashing its usually emissions if its flashing we see very low on engine oil many times here. Especially if dealer oil changes.

    High mileage G2's usually eat oil you will never know unless your personally involved with the oil maintenance. Dealer will never come to you in the waiting room and go hey we checked your oil before we dumped it and it was almost empty.

    Car that high mileage the oil should be checked at least once a week. Many times if run really oil on oil it will damage the lower bearing system in the engine and the engine will start throwing rolling misfires. Misfires that change cylinder position. First it shows cyl 1 missfire then later shows cyl 3 etc.
    Missfire should not change position.

    The g2 makes a very loud clattering noise if a coil on plug fails sounds like the engine is blown its so loud.There have been a few clogged injectors causing misfires also but somewhat rare.
     
    #10 edthefox5, Jan 8, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2020
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  11. MontyB

    MontyB Junior Member

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    Ugh. The yellow check engine light came on again today. This time it was not flashing, but was solid. I had a different auto parts store run a diagnostic test and it revealed that cylinder 1 was misfiring. In my opening post I mentioned that the yellow check engine light was flashing at that time cylinders 1 and 2 were misfiring. I have an appointment with my dealer tomorrow. I'm told they want to start with a tune up and coil change. But the engine is not making a clattering sound as mentioned above. So now I am hesitant to proceed with that course of action. Without guessing (and spending my money needlessly), is there no way for a dealer or service shop to accurately diagnose the cause of the misfires?
     
  12. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    What the cars history on oil changes...how often...who does it with what kind of oil....how often do you check the dipstick.....etc
     
  13. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    You don't need a dealer to change the plugs on a 2007, just buy a simple socket set (auto parts store will loan it to you if you buy plugs from them), change it yourself. It's right in front of you when you open the hood, takes 15 minutes
     
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  14. MontyB

    MontyB Junior Member

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    I have the oil changed every 5,000 by a local toyota dealership. The car does burn oil so I am very careful to check the oil frequently; 2-3 times each week. I use Mobil 1 synthetic "high mileage" oil.
    If 2-3 times a week seems like overkill it's because I drive between 35,000-40,000 miles a year.
     
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  15. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Sounds good. Your using the right oil. use 10-30 it will help mitigate any oil loss.
     
  16. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    checking 2-3 times a week is over kill, how often are you refilling or how much oil is it consuming every 1000 miles?
     
  17. MontyB

    MontyB Junior Member

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    HI all,

    Here's an update. According to my dealer the yellow check engine light was on because of a misfire in cylinders 1 and 2. This is also what a local auto parts store diagnostic scan had revealed a few days before I got it into the dealer. The dealer said they scoped the cylinders and that scoring is evident in all cylinders and that all four of my plugs were fouled. They attribute the oil loss to the scoring (there is no evidence of leaking) and they attribute the plug fouling to the engine burning oil at an unacceptable rate. They said my engine was at or near the end of it's life.

    I changed my plugs 24,000 miles ago, but it should be noted that I also let my car idle quite frequently for up to an hour at a time during the winter when my dog is with me and I'm having breakfast in town or running into a store.

    The car consistently burns about 1 quart of oil every 1,000 miles or so and has for roughly the last 40,000. The odometer presently reads 204,000 miles.

    The dealer said that a band aide fix would be for me to change the spark plugs at more frequent intervals which I can do myself. I had the dealer put in a set of plugs while it was there. I have put over 600 miles on it in the last four days and the engine light has not yet reappeared and the car seems to run as it always has prior to the check engine light coming on for the first time ever last week.

    Here's the deal guys. I presently put 500-700 miles per week on this car. In recent years past I was putting nearly 40,000 miles per year on it. I own a cabin on a river in remote northern Michigan where I intend to retire within the next 14 months. I presently make the 450 mile round trip drive EVERY weekend to spend 3 day weekends there each week remodeling my place.

    I have a 2015 4WD Access Cab Tacoma in my garage at the cabin. It has low miles (26,000) on it and I hope to keep it that way by putting all the miles on my Prius.

    I'd REALLY like to keep this Prius running so that I can use it as my back and forth vehicle until I retire. What does everyone think? Can I keep this car going and reliable for another 30,000 miles? Are there any inexpensive oil additives that I can add to facilitate this goal? Edthefox5 mentioned that I should switch from 5w-30 oil to 10w-30 oil.

    Your thoughts, shared experiences and suggestions would be- and have been- tremendously appreciated.

    Edit: Was discussing my Prius' issue with a friend who is a decent "backyard" mechanic. His thoughts were that the plugs probably did not become spontaneously fouled out the day the check engine light went on. Instead he suggested that after 24,000 miles and plenty of engine idling on the last set of plugs, that the plugs finally became fouled enough to cause the misfires.
    Your thoughts?
     
    #17 MontyB, Jan 14, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2020
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  18. davecook89t

    davecook89t Senior Member

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    There's nothing surprising about what you have described. Although I have not seen a check engine light yet on our Gen 2, I would expect the condition of its ICE to be similar (it burns a similar amount of oil as yours). With 281k miles, I continue to be surprised that it keeps doing what we ask it to, but someday it will just give up. In the meantime, I am not going to worry if a check engine light appears and then goes away the odd time. Changing to a heavier oil and changing the plugs more frequently is something that I would think is worthwhile.

    Best of luck. I'm willing to bet that your car will last longer than you think it will.
     
  19. MontyB

    MontyB Junior Member

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    Thank you for sharing your experience and for the words of hope.