Head Gasket Replacement Shop Recommendations- San Francisco Bay Area

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by davekro, Feb 4, 2026.

  1. NutzAboutBolts

    NutzAboutBolts Senior Member

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    that’s what I did when I replaced my HG lol power mode and drove it hard :ROFLMAO:

    I’m sure your engine isn’t gonna be full of sludge @davekro if the car hasn’t been sitting for a year without an oil change and just sitting idle.

    The only time I’ve seen a car sludge up was when they don’t change their oil for 15k miles and it was a 2008 Camry I believe… even then, they still drove it in for an oil change :whistle:

    I change my prius oil every 10k miles and as you can see in the video, the inside of the engine looks clean and no sludge build up. (y)
     
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  2. davekro

    davekro Active Member

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    I hope fellow Prius owners that learn about their Prius having a leaking head gasket, and also have the OCD desire to know exactly what this means and what to expect to get it repaired will find the descriptions of my learning process, and subsequent pictures from the head gasket repair process to be helpful.

    I am very grateful for being pointed to an absolutely amazing and affordable shop (Gasket Masters in Manteca, CA). Thank you all here at Prius Chat, especially @rjparker and @Mendel Leisk , for your diagnostics, knowledge and kindness in helping forum members like here! You all are unsung heroes, in my mind. While I don’t have the knowledge of the professional mechanics and Prius enthusiasts on this wonderful community’s forum, I enjoy hopefully adding some value by learning as I go and sharing the minutia of my learning process. For many, my posts are definitely TLDR and usually TMI! But hey, if there is one or two other ADHD/OCD types on this site like me (I suspect so, LOL ;o), I hope my TMI obsession helps someone here on this great community.

    Gasket Masters in Manteca removed the head and both the block and head had no warp, Yeah! The water pump's plastic covered magnet was cracket, so they replaced the WP with an Aisin PN WPT-190, $352 (Aisin makes the Toyota WP, so this is the same exact pump), the Thermostat (Water Inlet Sub-Assy w/ thermostat PN 16031-37010 $70), PCV Valve (AutoPart Internat'l PN 1901-480235 $8), 2 Gal. Zerex 50/50 Coolant $12 ea., Fel-Pro HG PN 26515PT $52, 4 Denso Plugs, $12 ea., Toyota Oil Filter PN 04152-YZZA6 $6.
    Labor- 'Head Gasket & Water Pump' 15.85 Hrs, $1,659 (that's only $105/ hour! :) :) They did not list a charge for the synthetic oil installed. Tax $50. Out the door price, $2,270. I am VERY pleased with that price. Ectatic, really! (y)

    Gasket Masters is the only shop I have ever encountered that not only does not mark up the prices of parts they install, but actually seem to charge the price they pay, sometimes lower than retail parts stores, due to the volume they buy I guess. EX. I paid $18 for Denso plugs at O'Reilly's. RockAuto lists $10.39. They charged me $12! Can't beat that. Their Labor rate is $105/ hr. That low surprised me too. :eek:)

    Now for the FUN part, Pictures: To not put too many pics in one post, I'll attach (8) to this post. [3 of the head Gskt, 3 of my head, 2 of my block]. The next post #43 will show (8) more pics of various parts removed/ replaced. The third post #44 will show pics of what you do NOT want to see! A Prius V's not good result of a bent rod. :eek:(
     

    Attached Files:

    #42 davekro, Feb 24, 2026 at 2:27 AM
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2026 at 3:27 AM
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  3. davekro

    davekro Active Member

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    Here are pictures of my carbon'ed up EGR Cooler, PCV Valve, Spark Plugs, Thermostat, Water Pump w/ cracked magnet.
     

    Attached Files:

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  4. davekro

    davekro Active Member

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    A Prius V was in the repair bay when I pulled up for my Friday morning 9:00am diagnostic.

    My HG repair did end up running into Saturday, because the poor guy’s Prius V, after tear down, Cyl 1 had a bent rod! Not the result you want to hear. :eek:( That guy had to opt for the $3,250 refurbished engine option. Not a JDM swap, but swapping in a Refurbished engine (checked-out block, with a rebuilt head installed on it). Andres said his car had been maintained poorly. The pictures reflect that.
     

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  5. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Your engine was the classic steam cleaned. Probably a big leak. I think you were days or hours from a bent rod.

    There are definable metrics to establish a JDM engine is real and not US salvage. They have been posted several times.

    You do need to exercise the car well while under warranty. Letting any high mile gen3 sit more than a few days is a bad idea. Watch the oil consumption as well.

    In the end, you have dodged the blown engine bullet. Congratulations.
     
    #45 rjparker, Feb 24, 2026 at 6:47 AM
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2026 at 7:59 AM
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  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk MMX GEN III

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    That at least seems steep:

    IMG_3317.jpeg

    134.36+37.88=172.24*0.73=$126~ (USD)

    https://www.amayama.com/en/part/aisin/wpt190
     
    #46 Mendel Leisk, Feb 24, 2026 at 9:50 AM
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2026 at 10:01 AM
  7. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    It was established the op was not going to diy and take weeks to do this job. He was not put off by reports of loose fasteners by a company known nationwide to stand by their work at a significant discount over dealers pricing.

    Assuming you could even get a dealer to do a head gasket rather than a new short block replacement for $8k or more in the high cost San Francisco Bay Area market.

    Sure diy is great for some and overseas parts are ok If you have two weeks to wait. You hope the ever volatile "duty" is not increased beyond today's 15%.

    Considering the counterfeits selling on US online outlets and what the price is at a Toyota dealer or a local auto supply ($532) where there is recourse for an obvious rip off, I think the price paid was decent. The warranty, reputation and experience of the shop is a major factor that is worth plenty.
     
    #47 rjparker, Feb 24, 2026 at 1:24 PM
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2026 at 1:31 PM
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  8. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    I believe the plug next to the one you "think" is #1, is likely the one that was the #1 plug.
    Look how clean the threads look at the bottom.

     
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  9. davekro

    davekro Active Member

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    I think you are absolutely correct. The mechanic was looking at the ceramic under the electrode and said the tan color was from the coolant. But looking at the pictures again, I agree that the bottom of the plug that protrudes past the threads of the head of the plug 'next to' my circled plug looks steam cleaned! The plugs in the box, I do not believe, were in any particular order, BTW.
     
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  10. NutzAboutBolts

    NutzAboutBolts Senior Member

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    Congrats! You saved another Prius going into the junk yard (y) enjoy it, it’ll last for along time
     
  11. davekro

    davekro Active Member

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    Dark Pink Coolant after HG replacement:
    When the Gasket Masters called me on how I wanted to proceed, he said my original head was fine, but said if I opted for a rebuilt head, his test drive experience was those w/ a rebuilt head seemed a bit peppier. I did not care about the 'peppier part at all. I was more concerned about the old school thought ('60s cast iron V8s), that a rebuilt head on an older lower end would stress the old rings and cause it to burn oil, so I told him to use the original head. After researching that old school rule of thumb from cast iron V8s, I learned it is not really an issued on modern alum. head/block engines due to closer tolerances and better metallurgy for rings these days. When I called back 45 mins later, he was already 30 mins. into reinstalling the original head, that was that.

    One thing that was initially of concern, was that as I drove away after picking up the car, I realized I had not looked under the hood. The coolant in the reservoir when I dropped it at the shop was bright pink, just like new, just like it comes out of the Zerex 50/50 jug. They used Zerex to refill the cooling system after the repair. So when I pulled over, maybe a half mile from the shop and looked under the hood and saw a much darker pink color in the reservoir, I was concerned. I called the shop. I forget exactly what they said, but they said it was nothing to be concerned about. Doing some Chat GPT reading, AI thought 1) the shop most likely does not flush the cooling system, but just add coolant to replace what drained during the repair. Chat said that the old coolant, being exposed to the air, oxidizes. Also, that small amounts of carbon, dirt, debris probably fell into the water jacket. Between oxidation of the old coolant and a bit of debris dislodged from the head's removal, could account for the discoloration of the coolant. Chat said it was not a concern, but at ≈ 500 miles after the HG job, to drain the block and radiator, close the two drains, fill the system with distilled water, run until reaches operating temp., let cool completely, drain again. Then fill with proper 50/50 coolant.

    Coolant preference: Toyota brand 50/50 vs. Valvoline's Zerex 50/50 brand:
    Do you have a strong preference for Toyota vs Zerex coolant? When I do this engine coolant flush 500 miles after the HG job, I will also do the Inverter Coolant system.

    Original head in good condition vs installing a rebuilt head:
    @rjparker , in your opinion, if they had installed a refurbished head, would that have been a better choice for the long term life of the engine? I would have gladly spent another $350 for the refurb. head. I am not concerned that I did not go with the refurb. head, just curious of the choice you might have made for this 2013 PIP w/ 214k miles. BTW, since Covid, my wife only has to commute her 75 mile round trip to work one day per week instead of 5/wk from 2013 thru march 2020. So, going forward, the car may go 12-15k mi. /year. We are very glad to have it back on the road and are looking forward to many more year of service.

    Oil Catch Can- I forget why Gasket Masters said they do not install 'oil catch cans'. Is there some reason not to install one? I'll be looking into installing an OCC.
    Thanks
     
  12. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    I think you are overthinking this and should just drive the car several times a week!

    Relying on Chat to tell you the right thing is a poor idea since it just generalizes what various youtube and forum people say.
     
  13. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    How's yours running?

     
  14. ETC(SS)

    ETC(SS) The OTHER One Percenter.....

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    ^ That.

    The reason that they will not install an OCC lies in your signature.
    From my recollections (and a quick Googling...)
    ....."Oil catch cans are generally not street-legal in California unless they have a specific CARB Executive Order (EO) exemption number, as they modify the factory emissions-controlled PCV system."

    They're a hotly debated item but in your case, and for this car I think that this is OBE - or 'overtaken by events.'
    Your car has 200k on the clock, and you have a warranty on the engine for another year.
    Drive it for two or three more years and start looking for a place to soft-land this ownership experience.

    OTOH,
    Change your oil more frequently and research OCC installs.
    They're cheap, and easy to install and generally WORTH DOING in the long run for some vehicles including (IMHO) Priuses.
    Your problem will be the "in the long run" caveat.
    Just drive the car like you've BEEN doing - or more accurately your CFO has been doing.
    If it lasts another year then you've already beaten the house odds on junking it and buying something else!

    Good Luck!
     
  15. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    There is a difference between a "rebuilt" and "refurbished" unit, whether head or other parts.
    A rebuilt head, they just clean the matting surface, use valve grinding compound and reseat the valves
    and HOPEFULLY replace the valve guide seals. Which is fine if it's not warped.

    Remanufactured they machine the matting surface, intake and exhaust surfaces.
    They cut the valves, and seats (all angles) , and the top where the rocker arms hit. Measure the height of the valve
    to make sure they are all equal. Clean the ports of any carbon. They make it like new.

    I had 1 exhaust valve on the #4 cylinder that has a very small leak. And I would doubt they check your
    valves. "MAYBE" they did, because if you had a leaking valve, I re-seated all of them. And replaced
    the valve guide seals. I would guess the most they did was clean the matting surfaces with an air tool.

    If your head's valves are not leaking, you'll likely be okay. The only way a rebuilt/manufactured head
    would make it "feel" like you have more power, would be the original head had leaking valves.

    I'm wondering if they cleaned the piston tops before install the head? And the combustion surface and
    valves of the head? Did they block off the coolant and oil passages before cleaning off the block surface?
    EXTREMELY doubtful a block is warped.
    The engine can't get to the temp it was at to mold the block....

    Coolant has been a big issue, and should be. Putting the wrong coolant in any car, could cause it
    to jell, and not flow. The cost difference in using the correct coolant, and aftermarket is almost
    nothing. So why not use the CORRECT coolant that you KNOW will work????

    Plus, how often will you be changing it? 3-4 years?

    You should also change the oil and filter.

    I hope you get many many miles out of it!!!



     
  16. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk MMX GEN III

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    They probably drained it fully; it's one of the first things they do in this video.