Shuttering at partial throttle

Get miniVCI w/ Techstream off Amazon/eBay. A laptop will be required; ideally and old XP based one. Many posts on equipment and install help.

 

Possible red flag. Who exactly did you buy it from?

"No, I bought a used battery from a wrecked 2009 Prius with 29,000 miles. It's warrantied for a year."
Prius battery finally died after 10 years and 220,000 miles | PriusChat

 

Yikes 2009 wreck, sounds like elite scam battery

 

For $1K more, you could have bought a new OEM HV Battery from a dealer for $2071. Assuming the dealer would match other online prices. The HV ECUs would have to be transfered over, and a few other parts from the dead battery into the new battery.

The exception (you) does not disprove the rule. The rule still stands: Elite Automotive has scamed/screwed people over.

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I now have the same shuddering at low rpm of gas engine.
Here is what happened.

My prius had 294k on it when cv axles needed replaced. So, All at one time i replaced these parts:
Ebay new cv axles and front struts
Pepboys economy reman maf sensor
Inner and outer tie rods
Oem ball joints
Ebay ignition coils
Iridium plugs
Autozone Rear wheel bearings, front ones have 100k on them

Then drove to goodyear for alignment and new gy assurance tires.
All rims are true.

Noticed shudder on way back and a click/pop from both sides of car at initial forward movement. It sounds like strut noise. Struts came with new strut mounts. But these were ebay cheapies and were not identical to oem. Everything on frontend is tight and there is no sense of bad cv while turning or reversing. Rear struts are worn oem replacements. Perhaps on take off the car shifts weight backwards enough to make the fronts produce the click/pop?

10k miles latter noticed a buldge outward on a tire and had that tire replaced. Other tires have sidewall dimples like i have seen many times on tires.


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I thought shudder disappeared when i had the spare tire on the front because the buldging tire wasnt safe to drive on.

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I put original coils back in but that wasnt the cause.
I cleaned throttle body
Ran fuel treatments
New pcv
Replace injector orings
Replaced both motor mounts and dog bone torque mount underneath.

One thing to point out, the passenger side replacement cv axle off ebay looked differrent but was same length. Like it was missing what i think was a vibration dampener donut located in middle of length of the shaft.

I have read on net that it could be a misfiring engine.
I have read it could be the cheap replacement axle inner cv joints.

Exhaust seems to be clear
Car runs like new except for shudder
Still zippy

Yes, original large battery. Had to replace the 294$ tiny battery once.
Had to resolder the loose connector inside the display unit.
New hid bulbs at 280k
New large battery cooling fan

Ive maintained it very well, even full brake bleeds.
However, I have not replaced the air/fuel o2 sensors. That job will probably have to be replacing the exhaust manifold on back to the tailpipe.



Toyota made odometers stop at 299,999 miles.
Dealer can set it back for $500.

I have 310k on the car now, all mine.
I have to use the trip to keep track of the milage

If i had breasts they would have blown the doors off by now the shudder is so bad!