I need advice - 2007-110,750 miles & DEAD!

Personally I don’t buy anything with the Dorman name on it. Always better to buy the higher quality item and do the job once. If I wanted something built to Vega quality I would buy a Vega.

 

Call me BEFORE you DO ANYTHING ELSE 352-257-9515..Randy in Crystal River.

 

There's close to a dozen individual solenoid valves in there that have to open when they open and seal completely when they're closed, so pretty much any of those getting sticky or getting a little piece of grot in the seal would be a problem. There are also several pressure sensors, but I bet those don't go bad much. I could be wrong.

Because the Gen 2 combines the actuator, accumulator, and pump into one big assembly, there's also an electric pump there. It could wear out. The accumulator has a thin metal bellows inside that could eventually fatigue and crack and leak.

If I had to bet, I'd probably have my money on a gummed-up valve most of the time, just because there are so many of them in there, and failure of any one of them fails the whole works.

But probably every unit that comes in has to be diagnosed, and just have whatever failed get fixed. If the motor can be easily disassembled, changing the brushes might be a thing I would do, if I were a rebuilder.

But no, I've never had even one apart, let alone a statistical sample, so I don't know what they really run into most often. The DTCs you can read can give a lot of information about what exactly's gone wrong, but since the only supported repair is to replace the whole thing anyway, I imagine most people aren't that curious.

 

It would be nice if Matt @texashybridbatteries could refurbish one of these up. I would feel much better buying a refurbished unit vs used units from a wreck. Realistically the replacement parts only have to last 3-5 years before your car will become too old and will end up in the wrecking yards

 

The ecu rarely goes bad, so I think you can skip it.

A used one on eBay would be less than $200

 

Plug and play, but I seriously don't think you'll have an issue.

I'll sell you one if you're worried

 

Here, this video will get you to where you can see the ECU. I don’t know if you have to completed remove the battery to inspect it. Perhaps some with more experience can comment on that.

 

Here is a good explanation of the battery ECU corrosion issue.

The battery fires at ECU sense connector thread | PriusChat

In Minnesota about 5% of the ECU's have some level of corrosion. You just do not know until you open it up. I have reports from AZ that 0% of the ECU's corrode there. Humidity is a factor.

 

Are there vehicle dismantlers in the US that will supply a complete traction battery assembly with say 1 mth warranty at a reasonable price? Perhaps this could be an option because the one I bought local here in Australia came complete with the battery computer, harnesses, relays and solenoids ready to simply connect the vehicle wiring harness plugs and the 2 high voltage connectors. Now I have a spare set of all the bits that I can play with and mix and match later if needed.
On another thread I was informed that the battery computer numbers go up as the factory improvements are made, so the computer with the highest last 3 digits is the better unit because it has the most up to date mods on board

T1 Terry