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Code P0A80 + P3013 All Battery Cells reading good! Any thoughts?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by vcvtrading, Jul 10, 2019.

  1. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    The direction of the module count is not based on how electrons flow out of the pack. The direction count is an arbitrary decision made by Toyota. They have not been consistent across models and generations. The Gen 1 count started at the ECU and the positive end of the pack. The attached picture is a shot from a Gen 1 manual. Back in 2014 it was common knowledge on PC that the count went in the same direction for the Gen 2 batteries. :confused: See post #626
    Gen II Prius Individual Battery Module Replacement | Page 32 | PriusChat
    It took a long time for that to get straightened out.

    This poor guy opened up his pack up three times because he relied on DTC and module count and did not bother to test all the modules.
    https://priuschat.com/threads/traction-battery-repair-recondition-with-ha-charger.174974/page- Posts #24 & #25.

    gen1.jpg
     
  2. vcvtrading

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    Hey all... As you all know I was able to locate the bad cell thru the load testing process (one bad cell). I let the battery sit for a week on the workbench and I just now tested all cells again. Now I am showing 3 or 4 other cells reading 6.48 ish (resting). All of the others are showing 7.70 ish, resting. I expected to see some drops from my baseline after the load test, but it is normal for a few of the cells to now read much lower after letting it sit for a few days? Or have I now located even more bad cells?
    Reminder... after the load test last week, I was only showing one cell that was reading under 7-volts, and it was reading 6.89.
     
  3. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Well, you did load testing right? And you haven't charged up each module individually? For best results charging pack to full charge via a grid charger, or individual module charging will give you more accurate self discharge readings... But for now add those discouraging numbers to your spread sheet and replace as many of the bad modules as you can afford to replace at the moment and revisit in a year to hunt for more. You'll also would benefit from reconditioning the pack, so let us know when you want to learn more about that?
     
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  4. vcvtrading

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    Thank you... yes I’m ready to learn how to recondition the pack. I plan to keep the car.
    Regarding charging the individual cells, could you recommend a decent cheap charger? I assume from a hobby type shop? I have plenty of time. This is not my primary vehicle.
     
  5. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    Yes.
     
  6. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Well it's hot this time of year so you'll need to blow some air around to keep things cool, or do it at night or next to an air conditioner...

    The basic science of it is here: BU-807: How to Restore Nickel-based Batteries – Battery University

    You need to discharge and recharge each module several times, each time discharging more deeply to recondition.

    As for hobby chargers the cheapest-best option in my opinion is this one: HTRC T240 DUO 10A Touch Screen Dual Channel Battery Balance Charger | eBay which keeps the price under $40 per module...

    For the past year I've been using 5 of these: GENUINE SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 ACDC LiPo NiMh Battery Balance Charger US STOCK 714424414151 | eBay but they don't have cooling fans and shut off early and no graph of charge & discharge cycle.

    Also because the discharge resistors in these chargers are 10watts it takes an eternity to discharge at full charge and puts a lot of heat directly on the circuit board, so I use a 12v / 50w bulb, as well as a 12v / 20w bulb and then dial back the wattage until the battery drains low enough for the the 10w resistor to make quick work of the remaining discharge.

    Here's what Prolong recommends to discharge each cell or whole pack down to:

    64220719_436568450499099_7616471389549101056_n.png
     
    #66 PriusCamper, Jul 20, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2019
  7. vcvtrading

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    Thank you for all the info! I'll take a look at the chargers. Could some of the cells currently showing under 7-volts (after the load test) be saved or reconditioned by the discharge/recharge method? Or should I only start the process with known good cells?
    Also, on the graph from Prolong they say to discharge single cells down to 'under a volt'... I had read in a few post that you should only discharge down to no more than 3-volts and no higher than 7.8 volts. Just want to ensure I do not over discharge or recharge.
     
  8. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    If you think you have a bad one charge it up and test it again and be as thorough as possible. When you're dealing with so many modules checking and re-checking helps filter out any human error that leads to false readings.

    There are six cells in a module so when it says .5v per cell that means drain down the module to 3 volts... Max charge on a whole Prius pack is 245v, which divided by 28 is 8.75 max charge per module. Tell tale sign of a module in need of reconditioning or is aging significantly is it will charge real fast up to 9v... No need to worry about over charging or under charging, these things are real tough! But NIMH don't do well if they're overcharged often, so there's limits you don't want to push...

    In the past half year Prolong raised their discharge numbers... They used to recommend the third discharge down to 0.1v per cell or 0.6v per module and I've never had a problem with over discharging, even when one time I fell asleep and didn't realize I was discharging with the 12v lights for 12 hours... All the modules were at 0.0v but as soon as I disconnected the lights they charged up great and have been drirving my friends car around without issue, so I got lucky... But yes, Prolong raised it to 3v per module because it will cause weaker modules to fail sometime going lower and they rather have less thorough reconditioning than people blaming them for ruining their pack.
     
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  9. vcvtrading

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    Thanks! You explain things very well. I appreciate all the time you have spent mentoring me. I am going to seek out a charger and start the process soon. I have to travel the next couple of weeks, so the battery will have to sit and wait until I get back!
     
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  10. vcvtrading

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    NEW ISSUE! I installed the new cell and got the battery pack back together and reinstalled in car. My 12v battery was dead after sitting for so long (it was old anyway), so I went to Sam Club and picked up an AGM Duracell batt (part 75DTAGM).

    Now the car will not start. When I push start it does into what appears to be accessory mode but engine will not start. The dash light up with "check VCS system" and check "hybrid system". However checking the codes, the P0d81 code is gone and now I have (2) new codes: C1310 and C1259 (something to do with "Speed wheel RF failure".

    Anyone know what the issue could be? Could it be the new 12v battery I installed?

    I am about ready to sell the car AS-IS!! (anyone want to make an offer??
     
  11. vcvtrading

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    Wait!! Nevermind!! I am an idiot. I forgot to reinstall the safety switch on the hybrid battery! It is fine now (or seems to be). Car started up fine. The "Check Hybrid system" warning was still there, but I cleared the code and it went away. Hopefully it does not come back!
     
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  12. vcvtrading

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    Well.. crap. Took the car for a test drive. All was well.. until the dreaded hybrid warning.. again. This time is bank #9. I'm done trying to repair the bad cells. I am going to think about my options. I love the car, and I would like it to be my somewhat daily driver again.
    Can anyone point me to the best re-manufactured battery packs? (one that will last a few years).
     
  13. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    'newpriuusbatteries.com'

    don't buy reman

    edit: oops, i forgot we were talking camry. try greenbean

    unfortunately, the rebuilders are doing the same thing as you, so their batteries are only as good as their warranty

    their warranty is only as good as their willingness to honor it,

    their willingness as good as their attempts to avoid bankruptcy

    and your willingness based on how much down time you can put up with
     
    #73 bisco, Sep 25, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2019
  14. Prodigyplace

    Prodigyplace Senior Member

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    Probably best to buy a Prolong system and modules from Hybrid Automotive or a new pack from Toyota.
     
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  15. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Welcome to the challenge of hybrid battery repair... We all have to go through it and if you keep at it you learn more and more and it happens less often. Of course it's way less stressful if someone pays you for your suffering. :) And yes, I know, It always seems like a huge effort to do it all over again when the the light comes up, but it really isn't. It gets faster every time you do it... One time I was so pissed off the light came on again I had the pack out of the car and stripped down for diagnosis in only 18 minutes.

    Through more testing and re-conditioning of modules you can have a reliable pack again. The more you invest in diagnostic gear, Prolong gear, spare parts, the more reliable the work gets. And compared to $2k for a new pack, it might be cheaper to keep at it DIY style...

    On the bright side if you decide to finance a new pack, you'll have no problem installing it in a few hours.
     
  16. vcvtrading

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    I don't know... Time is my issue, I just stay so busy it is hard to find time to work on it. But I do enjoy it. I will give a few days of pouting and I might take a look at the Prolong system. I guess if the money is the same, or cheaper, and I get it all done myself, the satisfaction will be worth it in the long run, rather than buying a reman pack and potentially go thru the frustration when it crashes. I've owned a toyota hybrid for the last 14 years (between the prius and camry). I plan to always keep one, of some type around, so might be wise to invest in the equipment. And my daughter has a prius.
     
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  17. vcvtrading

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    Prolong system... It seems it will charge and discharge the entire battery at once. However from everything I read and have read, you must get to the individual cells to charge, balance, condition, etc.. How does the consumer version of the Prolong system work? And would it help my battery and my current situation? The prolong folks give a great pitch.. And I would go for it, but really do not understand how it works.
     
  18. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    I owned the Prolong equipment for our 2010 Prius and it worked well;).

    We used the equipment to rebuild 3 failed battery packs (each one had a failed module), which allowed 3 more Prii to live another day:).

    You could buy some more modules, swap them into the pack and charge and recondition the pack. Great DIY equipment to have(y).
     
  19. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    What about the day after that?
     
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  20. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Well 2 of the 3 are still going well a year or so later;).

    The other one was to another member here who we loaned the equipment out to for rebuilding his. Then he sold it for an urban assault vehicle:cool:.

    His MPG’s in his 06 prior to selling were the highest he had seen though:).

    So decent results and much better ROI if you have others in the same boat with you (y).