Inverter pump failure with no symptoms?

Cancel that pump order! You only want the OEM. The other brands have not been reliable.

Regarding "motion" in the tank. The OEM unit I have in there now barely makes the surface move at all. But the car will run for hours on the highway on a hot day and when we get home TechStream shows the inverter temperature is OK. Also, what do you think is moving the fluid through your bleed screw if not the pump?

Lastly, when you close the bleed screw be sure to thoroughly dry it off. Then if you look at it later and it is crusty you can reasonably suspect a slow leak at that screw. The first time I changed a pump I didn't do that, and it was crusty. But it was not leaking at the screw, it was just the little bit of dried fluid which had not been cleaned off.

 

I saw really good turbulence in my reservoir right up the the point it failed on me about 2 weeks ago. The fluid looked like it was boiling.
Lasted 100,000 miles on the pump that was replaced under a TSB years ago.

Got the RTOD flying down the highway on a cool day. Pulled over first thing I checked no movement in reservoir. Limped back to work and left it there till i could tow it home the next day.

I am an expert at pulling the bumper down to remove the headlight and get to the pump. That takes like 5 minutes just like Luscious does.
Back to very good turbulence. It was a bitch getting the hoses to come off though they were really stuck on. I duckbilled the hoses and lost no coolant at all. I have to get back in there and replace it its been years.

If you have very poor turbulence it probably has the original coolant and sooner or later like many posters we have seen you will get a clogged inverter cooling channel. Its probably already clogged. Turn the car on ignition only so you can hear the pump it has such a soft whine you can hardly hear it. If its loud its struggling to pump.

It has a ton of very small cooling channels in the big block of aluminum under the inverter. Its integrated into the inverter you must replace the inverter assy to fix a clogged cooling system. never saw someone selling a separate cooling chamber.

The invert coolant should run about 110 degrees cooler than the ice.

I bought my car new and replaced the inverter coolant at 5,000 miles. That's the secret. Get all that break in stuff out of there. Same with the ice coolant. Same with the trans. On new cars period.

OEM pump was expensive. Much cheaper online but she needed the car asap.

 

Yes, i know the pump is running...but like it should..?Are you saying ¨...Do replace the pump, but only OEM..? Or are u saying barely no movement at all is normal as long as the OEM pump is in there...?
I guess there has to be some turbulence according to Toyota service Manual-> After correct bleeding procedure: it says..¨..Standard: Water pump noise becomes softer and coolant circulation in reserve tank improves. Coolant system air bleeding is complete. HINT: If air remains in the coolant system, the water pump noise becomes louder and the coolant circulation in the reserve tank becomes worse¨?

 

I dont quite understand the whole story here...now you are saying ¨..cooling system is likely clogged and replace the inverter assy...¨?
And what is RTOD? And in the end u replaced with no OEM pump and all back to ´normal´? What exactly is the invert coolant temp..194 F - 110 F = 92 F..? Is that Fahrenheit?

 

And now im a bit confused...maybe theres no problem at all, like i said before no DTC no warning lights no problems whatsover...maybe another thread that got me thinking...like so often on a forum...
Spareparts i buy also for other cars i owned and now the Prius is always Aftermarket no OEM..never had any troubles sofar.
I think i try and install the aftermarket pump to see if than i have more turbulence in reservoir..or I get a decent OBD reader and measure the coolant temp...could be still air trapped in there,....

 

Was not talking to you I’m talking to the OP original poster.

 

Yes, it is quite possible you have no problem, except that you reported no discernible movement visible in the inverter reservoir with the car in IG-ON. So either your pump is not working or not working effectively or you have a blockage somewhere in the system.

Here are two videos. The first one will give you an idea of what we are meaning by "movement'. The second one, skip to 11:10 and view the bleeding of the inverter loop (between 11:10 and 16:00). See how it compares to what you're experiencing. I'll make a couple of comments 1) the hose he is using is far too long. It only needs to be about 50 - 60 cm. 2) he needs to open the bleeder valve more so there is a better flow. He opens it just over a ¼ turn, but it really needs more like a full turn.

1) Video of Inverter Coolant flow with new pump.
2) Inverter Coolant Change DIY Video

I hope that is of some help.

 

ok thank u for the vids...I´m experiencing the same like in vid 2 with the bleeder valve more open...

 

Update:
After trying bleeding system, which i hope i did the right way..quite some fluid lost... enough still ...
...I took my car for a 45 minutes drive ...coolant temp 85 degrees C..
I openend the reservoir and hey..... turbulence....
my guess its all due to the temperature of coolant and inverter.....and maybe how full the reservoir is..
i check it again tomorrow morning when its cold...for now i cancelled the new pump order.

 

Checked again this morning Coolant temp 6 degrees C....no turbulence....

 

ok good for u.....luckely i do not have no Red Triangle....no nothing

 

by the way...how much coolant do u need to fill up the transaxle/inverter coolant system when you wanna change it?
I just read in another post ..2-3 US quarts...?

 

I put in one of these:

More Information for DORMAN 601015

it worked great, except when it didn't. Lots of turbulence normally. However, the inverter coolant temperature problem repeated with it in, and it turned out that it would, every once and a while, fail to start when power was applied to it. When that happened on a hot day with a highway trip, bad news. Long post about it here (currently the last post in the thread)

How to Replace the Inverter Coolant Pump | Page 11 | PriusChat

I discussed this pump issue with my mechanic at one point and he said they never put in anything but the OEM because the others fail too often.

 

of course they always go for the most expensive OEM part they can get...
what pump was the OEM..?

 

I know a lot of dutchmen like a good bargain but the inverter coolant pump is one of a few parts I'd recommend not trying to save a few Euros on. What you save on money you loose in time and inconvenience redoing the job before you should have to.

The Inverter Coolant Pump part is: Pump Assy, Water Toyota part number: G9020-47031.

 

thanks, that i already know...and i know what i ´m doing.....but u dont like a good bargain?

 

Of course I do, but I don't see it as a bargain when It costs me more money to buy a replacement prematurely (because it failed early) and takes my car off the road (often at the most inconvenient time). I prefer to buy quality parts and do the job only once every 160,000 km.

But each to their own.

 

Cheap and GOOD is a bargain. Cheap and BAD (fails in a short amount of time) is a waste in my opinion.

Not every OE part is well designed but in general, you often get what you pay for. Everyone's financial situation is different, but for me I prefer to spend (a little more) once and not have to do it again for years.

I like the concept of what companies like Dorman set out to accomplish. Unfortunately experience has shown that the quality of what they produce is usually horrible.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

I did some measurements with Torque app, outside temp 6 C, 20 km drive, nex time I wanna drive a bit more...
Looks ok for now ..try again in the summertime...