Axle Seal Leaking - Replace Transmission?

Funny thing is is it all stops with that seal so that seal has to be right by being seated into the transmission aluminum like it is and then when the axle goes into the transmission that fluted portion of the boot seals around the protruding outer edge of the CV joint or it mirrors it or whatever It's the innie part. Obviously you know how it's supposed to work so I'm not sure by changing the transmission anything gets accomplished the end of the CV joint that goes in to the transmission is going to be wet right up to that seal and then as the transmission fluid gets sloshed around the portion that sealing around the CV joint itself is keeping that fluid from spilling out past it and it just runs back into the transmission and then if the point where it's mounted to the transmission is stable the fluid just runs back down that little channel and into the bottom of the transmission pan or what have you.

 

If you want, you can try replacing that drive axle and seal, but that might not work. Look at your picture, there's "galling" of the metal with the diagonal grooves in it- that's where the axle inner joint rides and is held in alignment.

I have seen this before when someone really spins one wheel. On ice or snow, rev it up so the speedo reads 50mph but the car won't move? The differential spins at 50, the stationary axle is at 0, and the spinning axle hits 100. The axles ride on the steel of the differential carrier. The speed difference between the carrier and each of the drive axle inner joints is 50mph (it's usually near 0).

The stopped axle is usually ok, but the spinner seems to fling the ATF away and "melts" (smears) the metal wear surfaces. Likely needs a new trans and axle.

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This sounds dire. If you really do need a trans they are low failure items and inexpensive available at local yards

from what I remember that seal should be recessed several mm from the case edge. I didn’t have the Toyota tool so I made a loop from 12 gauge bare copper wire and put it on the seal to drive it just below the surface

trans swap is Lot of work but step by step is on this site

 

One thing I noticed is that there is a left and a right seal listed. Are you using the correct one?
Second, the seal is spec'ed to be installed 2.7mm recessed. Your's is flush, so the seal lip is actually riding in a different spot than original. Perhaps trying it at the recessed position?
Third, procedure specifies coating the seal with grease after installation. Are you doing that?

Here's a snippet of the repair manual section....

 

Hope you have a hybrid capable code reader.

 

First off, it is a planetary gear trans, not CVT. Correct me if I am wrong but I did read this elsewhere.
If the seal is tight on the shaft but the shaft moves the movement will ruin the seal and leak. Many seal replacements on worn shafts leak, the area the seal touches can wear smooth and allow fluid by. Old man tricks include not pushing the seal in so far as normal, so the seal lip touches a "new" area on the shaft and using emery paper to scuff the shaft surface a bit. But again, if the shaft moves it will ruin the seal.
Sorry

 

It looks like Toyota can still sell you the differential side gears (41331H) and their thrust washers, differential case bearings and shims and so on, even the differential case itself if it comes to that.


TRANSAXLE ASSY(HEV OR BEV OR FCEV). 2007 Toyota Prius | Toyota Parts Center Online


What you'll notice is that the thrust washers and bearing shims come in a range of sizes, and your rebuild has to include a somewhat tedious process of determining the sizes you need and ordering those. If you go to the web site for Art's Automotive in Berkeley, CA, you can read an old article about how tedious that was for an old Gen 1 tranny rebuild he did, and why he decided not to do more of those.

 

P0AA6 is an isolation fault in the HV system. Where you getting that code before doing any of this work?

If you look at the code screen in Techstream, there should be a little snowflake icon next to the P0AA6- that's the freezeframe data. Click on it and there should be a 3-digit "detail code" (or INF).

When the hybrid control ecu first detects a problem, it sets a (general) INF of 526. Do not clear the codes. Power up the car again to ready. Read the codes and freezeframe again. The ecu should have done more testing and set another INF (611, 612, or something) that narrows down the suspect area.

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When you're doing this you're not running one of the leads to ground right You're testing between the three wires as if you were testing a stator or something like that? Just curious