Prius intermittent temp light when driving uphill

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Vinny85, Sep 1, 2025 at 2:00 AM.

  1. Vinny85

    Vinny85 New Member

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    Hi everyone i have a 2011 prius that has about 250k miles on it. I have had the car for about 10 years no major issues. I replaced the water pump, thermostat, had the headgasket changed as a preventive maintenance once i got to 240k as i want to keep the car for awhile

    I notice the the car makes noise like there is air trapped in the coolant system. I can recreate the sound when i brake hard. I have monitored the temp levels and they stay around 192-196 hwy temps and uphill if i floor it i can get the temps to 206+ as it climbs

    Is this normal or should i be worried about the air noise in the coolant and the overheating light on long uphill drives?
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i'm no expert, but i would be worried. idk what temp sets the light, but it can't be a good thing
     
  3. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    Did you install a Toyota OEM water pump or an aftermarket pump?
     
  4. Gokhan

    Gokhan Senior Member

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    Certainly not normal with the noise and coolant running too hot.
     
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  5. Gokhan

    Gokhan Senior Member

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    Usually, the trapped air will bleed itself. In my old 1985 Corolla LE FWD, if air was trapped during coolant drain and refill, there would be no coolant circulation whatsoever. The solution was as easy as pumping the coolant by repeatedly squeezing and releasing the upper hose and then adding more coolant. Also, the jiggle valve on the thermostat, which helps bleed the coolant, needs to face up.

    You use a 50/50 water/antifreeze mixture, right? Using a higher antifreeze concentration will result in a lower cooling efficiency and higher coolant temperatures.

    Check for leaks and a bad radiator cap. If no leaks are found, it could be an improperly installed head gasket that is sucking air or perhaps a a bad or improperly installed water pump.
     
  6. Vinny85

    Vinny85 New Member

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    The car runs great overall. It has a toyota oem water pump from a parts car. Coolant was toyota 50/50 blend and was poured in slowly making sure no air was trapped. It cycles fine and doesnt overheat on long straight drives just when really accelerating up long hills. No leaks whatsoever and everything looks really clean. Im wondering if the person who did the headgasket did it improperly and its sucking air but its strange that it drives perfect and doesnt make air noise only on braking as if theres alot of bubbles trapped in the system somewhere?
     
  7. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    Comparing 1985 gasser car to a 2011 hybrid car for troubleshooting contrast, mice
     
  8. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    You made it onto the archive.
     
  9. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    206f on a steep hill in hot weather is ok. But you said 206+. Does that mean 240f or higher? Typically the light comes on at 248f.

    Gen3 has two engine-coolant temperature sensors to monitor and either one can flash the light. One is on the engine while the other is on the hose coming from the exhaust heat recirc system. With Techstream one is in the ecm pids while the other is in the Combination Meter group. Both are called Coolant Temps.

    As noted in a July 14th post, the exhaust recirc thermostat could be stuck in the heat exchanger position adding unnecessary heat after warmup. This was reported at least twice now. The engine temp could be fine but the exhaust heat exchanger sensor (Combination Meter ecu) could trigger the light.

    I use the Car Scanner app to display both engine-coolant temps.

    IMG_9656.jpeg

    Normal capture of both temps (Exhaust Heat Coolant Temp in Red)
    v red exhaust recirc temp vs green engine temp FULL.jpeg

    Overheat light caused by a stuck exhaust heat recirc valve. (Exhaust Heat Coolant Temp in Red)
    priuschat overheating capture.jpeg

    In the above Car Scanner capture the red trend exceeds the other sensor but not enough to trip the warning light in this test run. However the owner MSB87 replaced parts of the exhaust heat recirc system and eliminated the problem.
     
    #9 rjparker, Sep 1, 2025 at 11:30 PM
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2025 at 11:46 PM
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  10. Vinny85

    Vinny85 New Member

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    The temp light comes on i believe at around 210 degrees for me; i havent got it past 210 degrees to my knowledge but ill check again when i drive uphill what the scanner recorded.

    Also i hope it makes sense that the coolant makes noise that air is trapped in the system. Im wondering if this is what is causing the light to come on and causing a faulty reading? I brought it in to a mechanics shop and they said they bled the air out however after a month the sound comes back. I have great heating and air btw. Trying to see if anyone else has had this issue before
     
  11. Gokhan

    Gokhan Senior Member

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    Did not compare. That was only a mention in a lengthy post. He likely has an air leak, which could be from the head gasket or water pump as I explained.
     
  12. Gokhan

    Gokhan Senior Member

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    But the coolant is bubbling, which means there is an air leak unless there is an unlikely air-bleed issue.
     
  13. Vinny85

    Vinny85 New Member

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    the coolant itself is not bubbling. I have only heard air rushing through the hoses
     
  14. Gokhan

    Gokhan Senior Member

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    Engine vacuum changes when you release the accelerator pedal (an increase in vacuum) and also when you activate the brake booster (a decrease in vacuum). So, it does sound like the engine is sucking in air through the newly replaced head gasket and it is mixing with the coolant.

    Check to see if the coolant is mixed into the oil. You can do so by a used-oil analysis, which you can order through Blackstone Laboratories or other oil-analysis places. You should put a note to check for antifreeze when you place the order.

    Oil analysis | Blackstone Laboratories

    https://wearcheck.com/
     
  15. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    You still have not mentioned exactly how hot it gets. Are there any codes? For the light to go on requires higher than 206f.

    Has the coolant been low requiring topping off?

    If there is air in the system it typically accumulates in the reservoir and is released. A gen3 normally does not trap coolant in heater lines where it might be heard "bubbling" in the cabin.

    However if there is a head gasket leak again (not unheard of) then combustion gasses may continuously inject into the coolant.

    The temperature light is concerning and could be caused by low capacity due to previous sealer clogging the radiator, low coolant, weak water pump, or a bad thermostat.

    If it is losing coolant that is not a good sign. Regardless I would get a monitor capable of displaying both coolant temperatures and see what is happening. Both should closely track each other. Low cooling system capacity may show higher than normal temperatures without a steep hill climb.