Gen 4 Engine into Gen 3 Prius Partial Guide

Is the 19AWD a 2Z 1.8 ? Then probably so as I would imagine anything dealing with the four-wheel drive will be past the torque plate

 

Still investigating my options... Can the heads be swapped between 3g and 4gs?
I have my old 2012 head and wondering about just putting that on my 2016 block that's still in the 2012 car...

 

Yes, from what I've read only the Corolla, RAV4 & CH-R had the 2.0L that early on in the US from what I understand reading. Priuses had the 1.8L up until 2022. Wondering if the Wiki can use some updating if otherwise? Toyota Dynamic Force engine - Wikipedia

 

What do I do with this hose?

Head gasket blew on the 2012 Prius v and bent rods in #1 and #3. Found a 4th Gen engine to swap in.

What do I do with this hose that isn’t present on the 3rd Gen timing cover? It runs under the exhaust manifold and to the revised coolant port.

I’ve already swapped the exhaust manifold, flywheel, and engine mount, and test fit the 3rd gen EGR (with milling the head to remove the unneeded bracket).

 

If I remember right, easiest thing is to plug the port in the timing cover, do away with the extra pipe and hose, and put a US-market water outlet on the rear of the head.

 

Thanks! It didn't even occur to me that the coolant outlet would be market specific.

 

I believe that is a gen4 coolant bypass direct to the egr cooler as shown below. Gen3 is different on the secondary flow.

With a gen4 engine into a gen3, most eliminate the engine coolant bypass. You also won't have the selector valve.



More detail on gen3 coolant flow
See "Heater Coolant Flow" paragraph
No Heat - Replaced multiple components | PriusChat

 

I have the engine in, all of the connectors connected, all of the coolant lines properly routed, but the car does not go into Ready. I have a dashboard full of morning lights (But not the triangle of death).

Will putting it in maintenance mode solve this?

There is new oil in the car, as well as almost 2 gallons of coolant. The High voltage and 12 V batteries are connected. The main harness grounds are bolted to the head; the ground under the A/C lines is bolted to the timing cover. All harness plugs are plugged in.

I feel like I’ve missed something but not sure what to check.

 

Often the orange hv disconnect is not slid over after it was snapped closed. We have seen plenty of people who were sure it was right but it was not correctly engaged.

Codes from Techstream or other full hybrid capable scanner may pinpoint a missing and hidden sensor connection.

 

Thank you -- it was the HV battery disconnect being slid 90% but not all the way.

The engine started, stumbled for 10 seconds with some harmonic balancer rattles, then smoothed out. I've bled the cooling system and feel ready for a road test.

Currently diagnosing a P0010 (the connector looks fine) and a little smoke coming off the exhaust manifold (I think it's just the anti-seize burning off).

Here's how I handled the coolant temp sensor extension:


The engine looked spectacularly clean (the oil pan was crushed in transit):


Engine in, using only parts from the 3rd and 4th gen engines, including the coolant tee:

 

P0010 is an open or short on the variable valve timing solenoid (camshaft timing oil control). Open could mean it's not pushed on enough or has something jamming it. Unlikely would be the solenoid is internally open. An ohm meter could check that and wiring to the ecm.

Short means one of the wires is shorted to ground. Ohm meter again.


It is a 2 wire device - not the three wire crankshaft position sensor.

Most common is operator error.