173k, head gasket time, darn it.

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by taupehat, Jun 13, 2021.

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  1. taupehat

    taupehat Junior Member

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    Owned since 25k, used it for 5 years as rideshare in San Francisco (so, you know, nice easy driving without a lot of hills or anything). 2 days ago it developed an engine shake so bad I thought it was a suspension problem at first, then realized it was only when the ICE was first starting up. Pulled code, 0302 (just then the CEL came on). Swapped plugs, runs quite a bit better except 0302 and shaka-shaka still. Swapped coil packs 2 & 3, no change, still 0302.

    Yesterday dumped in some Jectron and drove it hard all day. Coolant tank went from slightly overfilled to very nearly empty. CRAP!!!

    Since I have to tear it apart I'm also going to clean the injectors and do the EGR degunk. I don't expect to need to machine the head unless I see something horrid once I get it removed.

    So for the rebuild, I have a few questions:
    • Any tuber walkthroughs you have personally used and how did you like them?
    • Chilton vs. Haynes for this car? (I usually like Haynes but for some vehicles it's not the best)
    • Any unexpected land mines?
    • Am thinking of leaving the exhaust manifold in place and just unbolting it at the flange - this is a low-rust vehicle so it shouldn't be too bad with the impact gun. Why would I want to not do this?
    • What land mines do I want to look out for?
    Thanks all.
     
  2. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    1) Gasketmasters, but I think they took the video down.

    2) $25 for a 48-hr subscription of TIS, or alldatadiy

    3) Need some long M8x1.25 bolts to remove the crank pulley. Have a helper help you with guiding the timing cover in place in order to not disturb the RTV bead once it is applied.

    4) You can do this, but the manifold still needs to come off if you decide to take it to a machine shop. It is a good idea to have the head inspected for leaks and to have new valve stem seals installed.

    5) If the piston to deck height is not correct, you probably have a bent rod. This is more common than folks like to believe, and many engines are not good candidates for the HG job if they’ve been driven with a failure.
     
  3. Dilbone

    Dilbone Junior Member

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    I found sections of the service manual online and through the forum. I was told at the parts store that they couldn't even get a Haynes manual for me.

    I did replace my valve stem seals myself, not a big deal to do yourself amd.they typically come in the head gasket set anyway ...just time consuming and a little fiddly getting the valve keepers out and back in. If you've never taken valves out of a head before it can be intimidating I suppose.

    I have found it easier to take the exhaust manifold off and not leave it attached.

    +1 on the timing cover. The first time I installed it I had help...the next 2 times I did it solo(don't ask why I had to install it 3 times). Def easier with assistance.



    SM-G981V ?
     
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  4. taupehat

    taupehat Junior Member

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    Thanks for the useful info! Followup questions:

    Alldatadiy definitely gives a lot more time for the money. For this particular job do you think the cost of TIS is worth the difference?

    Any suggestions on how to measure this without disturbing TDC or investing in a bore micrometer?
     
  5. Tekken

    Tekken Member

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    Would you like to share what's last time you clean your EGR cooler? 173k need a Head gasket on 2013 seem to early
     
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  6. taupehat

    taupehat Junior Member

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    The EGR cooler has never been changed or cleaned (frankly it's kind of a PITA to get at). I do plan to clean it when I tear the motor down, but am assuming head gasket due to the vanishing coolant since the problem started two days ago. Keep in mind, rideshare does a whole lot more start/stop cycles wearing on the head gasket than daily driving does and that accounts for 100k of the 173k on the car.
     
  7. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Seeing that it could save the head gasket, it would make sense to clean the egr system.
    The cooler is not that much work to get to, less than doing the head gasket! :)
    And having a spare cooler helps a lot and makes it faster. It's really not that hard to get at.
    And easier the 2nd time.
    I'll be coming up to the 3rd time in the next 10,000 miles I believe. I'll be putting back the original
    already cleaned cooler back in.
    Should only be a 2 hour job.
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Resonant Resident

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    #8 Mendel Leisk, Jun 14, 2021
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2021
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  9. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    as another pc member would say, that’s insanity!!!
     
    #9 Grit, Jun 14, 2021
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2021
  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Resonant Resident

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    Yeah but why perpetuate the eye roll?
     
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  11. privilege

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    to check/compare the stroke of all the pistons, you can use a couple of wooden dowels and a piece of paper.
    if the paper slips the same under all 4 at TDC, you're good. if one of them is obviously low, that's bad
     
  12. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Resonant Resident

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    That sounds interesting; can you clarify how that works, you’re checking TDC on two at the same time, comparing?
     
  13. Dilbone

    Dilbone Junior Member

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    A straight edge on the deck and feeler gauges between the straight edge and tops of pistons can easily check piston height...or depth rather. It's not like you can't rotate the crank once the head is off to put each pair of pistons up at TDC, you just have to make sure you put the crank timing mark back in the right place before the head and chain go back on.

    SM-G981V ?
     
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  14. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    there was no eye rolling emoji or tone, but I should have used an exclamation point at the end of the sentence.
     
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  15. taupehat

    taupehat Junior Member

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    Argh. I wonder what gasketmasters charges for the swap. I can measure piston depth easily enough to see if the rods are hosed but I've never much loved doing HG swaps and there's a lot to deal with on this car.
     
  16. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    You also need an angle torque wrench if you do not have one.
     
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  17. Dilbone

    Dilbone Junior Member

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    There are probably more fiddly and frustrating pieces and parts to this HG job than just about any motor I've worked on. It's not necessarily more difficult or complicated, it's just so tedious and time consuming to even get to the head for removal. Once done and you figure out the correct order of things you can fly through it so much faster but the first time through is definitely a slow process...at least for me it was.

    SM-G981V ?
     
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  18. taupehat

    taupehat Junior Member

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    Which part needs an angled torque wrench?
     
  19. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Resonant Resident

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    The head bolts for sure. My post #8 has link to a post with various head related excerpts from repair manual, and IIRC one of those has the instruction, you torque to a moderate foot pound spec, then an additional 90 deg, then another 45 deg. In a crisscross pattern of course. Just my 2 cents: maybe you could accomplish this without angular torque wrench? Sounds sweet though.

    Angular torque might also be specd on the bolts of the damper between engine and transaxle? Not sure.
     
  20. taupehat

    taupehat Junior Member

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    Oh that lol. I guess you could use a protractor if you were totally anal about precision but honestly 90 and 45 degree turns are easy to visually confirm - not even a "calibrated elbow" issue for that :D

    Thanks for the quick response by the way. I'm greatly relieved that this was the issue.
     
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