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2006 HV ECU Question

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Knightrider, Mar 7, 2019.

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  1. Knightrider

    Knightrider Member

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    So- To the point
    have a friend w 2006 and was taken to dealer and diag was performed and recommended HV ECU be replaced.

    Dealership notes
    CUSTOMER STATES THE RED TRIANGLE LIGHT IS ON AND THE VEHICLE WILL NOT START. CHECK AND ADVISE (CUS ~|~CUSTOMER STATES THE RED TRIANGLE LIGHT IS ON AND THE VEHICLE WILL NOT START. CHECK AND ADVISE (CUSTOMER IS AWARE OF WHEEL SPEED SENSOR WIRE RUBBING ON THE LEFT FRONT WHEEL) ~|~ ~|~163861 ADVISED OF P0AA6, INFO 526 & 612.. HAS AFTER-MARKET HV BATTERY.. RECOMMEND START WITH THE BATTERY ECU.. CUSTOMER DECLINED & IS TOWING VEHICLE OUT OF SHOP, CUSTOMER STATES THE RED TRIANGLE LIGHT IS ON AND THE VEHICLE WILL NOT START. CHECK AND ADVISE (CUS, TOYOTA VEHICLE INSPECTION AND SET TIRE PRESSURES, NO RECALLS AT THIS TIME PER NATIONAL SERVICE HISTORY

    p/n 87090-47092 - ECU was quoted

    In searching - I have found many replacement parts but few match this p/n

    Would it be possible to replace the ECU with a 87090-47090 and or similar unit?
    Car has a non - OEM battery pack.

    I have not started tear down - but want to double check Main battery harness and bars for the Orange connector meltdown/ECU failure.

    I know it's a shot in the dark-

    Anyone run into similar issues?
     
    #1 Knightrider, Mar 7, 2019
  2. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    Do a search and you might find an answer.

    P0aa6 | PriusChat

    Don’t fixate on an incorrect part number, fixate on the code and sub codes. Seems like a lot of dealers are pretty much guessing when it comes to Prius repairs. The above thread has the main code and one sub code, but not the other.

    The non OEM pack just means the dealer is gonna blame that no matter what. And it might actually be the problem. A lot of rebuilt packs are junk.
     
    #2 Skibob, Mar 7, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2019
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  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Are you sure you've got the first five digits in those part numbers right?

    Try 89890-47092 or 89890-47090.

    You might also want to edit your thread title (or ask a mod to, if the option isn't showing for you), as you're talking about the battery ECU, not the HV ECU.
     
    #3 ChapmanF, Mar 7, 2019
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  4. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    #4 SFO, Mar 7, 2019
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  5. Knightrider

    Knightrider Member

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    #5 Knightrider, Mar 7, 2019
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  6. Knightrider

    Knightrider Member

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    I’m sorry I was doing it off lack of sleep and memory -

    But the p/n you have listed are accurate- thank you -
     
    #6 Knightrider, Mar 7, 2019
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  7. Knightrider

    Knightrider Member

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    Thank you all - I have a bit more as far as leads and where to check -

    I agree the non stock hv batt will always draw raised eyebrows and pointed Fingers.
     
    #7 Knightrider, Mar 7, 2019
  8. Knightrider

    Knightrider Member

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    Looks like an excuse for insulated gloves and Megohmmeter purchase!

    Shade tree here enough to be dangerous but all said- our cars are Full Scale rc cars w a nitro motor and Nimh battery controlled by multiple modules and such.
     
    #8 Knightrider, Mar 8, 2019
  9. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    The "92" ecu is the most updated Toyota replacement which is able to replace any year gen 2 battery ecu.
    The "90" model will work just fine.

    The 2006 probably came with an "80" model, but I don't remember exact years for each.

    There are a handful of different model ecu's that were used from 2004-2009.
    I have several of each if you end up needing one.

    I would also mention odds are slim that the problem is actually the battery ecu.
    And, what exactly is meant by aftermarket/non-oem?
     
    #9 TMR-JWAP, Mar 8, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2019
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  10. Knightrider

    Knightrider Member

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    I have not removed the battery cover for inspection yet.
    I am doing this purely out of friendship and curiosity -

    I will be checking wiring and looking at the common and quick check items first-
    leaking hatch- water damage
    loose hardware/connection points-
    HV Plug

    Side note-
    I am purchasing a dead HV pack 05 Prius off these friends for 500-700 with 300k
    I have been using the site for a wealth of knowledge.
    It's so nice having members that don't troll and lash out when a question is asked incorrectly and or mistakenly.

    I am used to this support and knowledge from Volvo Forums- great to see it cross the gap to Hybrid land.
     
    #10 Knightrider, Mar 8, 2019
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  11. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Knight,

    I understand they're your friends, and your area may be different, but for my area, that price is way over high end for any '05 especially one @300k miles

    If you're looking for newer modules to update your 2005, any Gen 3 will have identical modules as the '05. Keep in mind your car has 28 modules. Beware of the Prius C batteries, as they only have 20.
    The Gen 4s have both NiMH and Lithium Ion batteries, depending on the model. The NiMH model has modules that are direct swaps for Gen 2 and 3.

    For zip code 64030, I'm showing

    Midway Auto Parts(salvage yard ~16 miles from 64030) having several 2011 HV batteries @$585 Contact #816-241-5000

    Mid America Autoparts (~60 miles) having several 2012-2014 @ ~$800 Contact #1-800-627-2100
     
    #11 TMR-JWAP, Mar 8, 2019
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  12. Knightrider

    Knightrider Member

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    In my area all Prius are $2000 bare minimum even the 250k+ mileage w original battery -
    This is for a daily and learning experience all in one-
    I don't get afraid of much- and I am trading labor for a discount and should be near the $400 mark when done on their 06 once back on road.
    I have been testing my modules and found 5 in poor shape just testing Voltage- 6.50-6.90
    the remaining test 7.40 and above
    I have been discharging and charging the remaining good to match and then will load test and balance further before final assy.

    To me the amount of money/time in vested is worth it. We all have projects and this is a great learning one for me.
     
    #12 Knightrider, Mar 8, 2019
  13. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    I think I misunderstood your post. I thought you were saying that you were buying JUST the dead battery pack. If you're buying the entire car, that's a whole different ballgame. I'd most likely buy the car also, at that price.
     
    #13 TMR-JWAP, Mar 8, 2019
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  14. Knightrider

    Knightrider Member

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    Whole car- service history for the first 287k was all dealership maintained 299999 for the next 3 years are touch and go and off memory from the current owners - my friends.
     
    #14 Knightrider, Mar 8, 2019
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  15. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    Don’t feel bad. I thought the price was for the battery only myself. ;)

    That’s a good price for the entire car.
     
    #15 Skibob, Mar 8, 2019
  16. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    Aftermarket would be someone went to the auto parts store and bought a rebuilt Dorman battery and had it installed. Auto parts stores do sell rebuilt batteries, but they are not good.
     
    #16 Skibob, Mar 8, 2019
  17. Knightrider

    Knightrider Member

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    This Flow chart is amazingly helpful!
    Thank you-
    I will check the main battery hv side POS and NEG for reisistance- if this is 10M ohm or lower replace the Battery ECU.

    IF no faults:

    Check system relays for sticking - should be below 1 ohm
    Next would be Insulation Resistance- and so on down the chart.

    Thank you guys for your help.
     
    #17 Knightrider, Mar 8, 2019
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  18. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Knight,

    I think if you megger less than 10M then the problem lies in the module area, not the ecu. If you disconnect the output cables from the car side of the relays, and disconnect the battery harness connectors from the ecu, and then megger from the battery side of each relay to chassis ground, and get less than 10M, then you are showing that the module side has low insulation resistance. (typically electrolyte leakage and very visible) That was a heck of a sentence, but hopefully understandable.

    The reason you have to megger from both relays to chassis ground is because you should have the safety disconnect out. That essentially chops the battery in half. One half is connected to the negative relay terminal and the other half is connected to the positive relay terminal.

    I suppose you could replace megger with a standard multimeter if needed, but the MM may not have sufficient voltage to make the problem show up, unless it's really bad. (but then you probably won't need a MM to see the visible corrosion stains.
     
    #18 TMR-JWAP, Mar 8, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2019
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  19. Knightrider

    Knightrider Member

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    I already ordered a Megger to have in the tool arsenal :)


    Thank you for the explanation and it does make complete sense, hell, it could be as simple as the hatch leaked water- shorted some modules and they leaked below relays ….thus closed circuit.
     
    #19 Knightrider, Mar 8, 2019
  20. landspeed

    landspeed Active Member

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    Definitely get the HV / linesman's gloves; it is scary working without them. The orange connector is always 'live', as it is connected permanently to the battery cells, and if burnt badly enough, you could end up touching some very high voltage as you remove it. If there is corrosion, please open the ECU and post pictures! (my profile pic, from a known-good ECU, is related!)

    You can probably make a working battery out of your battery and the one in the car you are getting, and have another car for spares (or, keep an eye out for a 'good' second hand battery, or order 'newpriusbatteries' after saving up for a while!)
     
    #20 landspeed, Mar 8, 2019
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