2009 New noisy coolant valve??

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by daisy555, Dec 3, 2016.

  1. daisy555

    daisy555 Active Member

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    Hi. I just had coolant valve replaced and dealer tech is saying the valve has been redesigned therefore different sounds coming my dashboard?

    I hear a new knocking sound when turning car off and on. Most disturbing is after I shut car off there is a delay and then this huge gush of water sound along dashboard area that lingers for a bit. Apparently this normal for this new pump design?

    I also hear an ever so slight new dragging sound as I'm driving. Can't really explain. Almost like a plastic bag dragging under car but very subtle and towards front of car not under it. Ugh...not good at describing sensations.

    Has anyone had similar problem with new coolant valve? Apparently redesigned sometime over the past few years.

    Thanks!
     
  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    The coolant level might not be full. Does your heater work?

    The valve does not make a noise
     
  3. daisy555

    daisy555 Active Member

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    Three hours at dealership and they supposedly bled two lines to see if that helped but it didn't. There was plenty of coolest when I checked first time after repair. I'm bringing it back on Tues for manager to evaluate. I don't want them to blame it on another part. : / I had no symptoms before all of this just engine light came on. They are saying car might have been extra quiet due to valve breaking but valve certainly wasn't broken entire year I've owned car. After I shut car off there is silence and then it sounds like I have a car wash going on inside dashboard. Then that moan sound which I used to get occasionally but never this loud.

    I actually heard slight water gushing sound when driving out of a parking lot too.

    Yes, heater works.

    Thanks!
    M
     
    #3 daisy555, Dec 3, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2016
  4. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    There's no motor in the valve, I'm not sure what they are saying about noise. It doesn't make a noise....it's a valve. The most likely problem is air in your coolant loop that has not been thoroughly bled out.
     
  5. 05PreeUs

    05PreeUs Senior Member

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    The knocking may be a stuck or broken blend/mode door, common on other brands, but I am not even 100% sure if the Prii have them. Does make sense if they were in the HVAC/under-dash area tho.

    Bleeding air from coolant, while not exactly rocket science, is much more involved than 20 years ago. Current best practices are to use a "Vac-N-Fill" tool that will first remove almost all the air from the cooling system by placing it in a vacuum and then allow that same vacuum to draw the coolant into the system. This is the most trustworthy way to refill a cooling system.
     
    #5 05PreeUs, Dec 3, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2016
  6. daisy555

    daisy555 Active Member

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    So I guess all I can do is bring this info to the service manager on Monday. I'll also call another busy Toyota dealership and ask them if they have sound issues with redesigned valve. There is no way Toyota would redesign a part and allow it to make this kind of noise.

    Guy who test drove with me today said they replaced three coolant valves this week.

    Sign states they only use OEM Toyota parts.

    Thank you!
     
  7. daisy555

    daisy555 Active Member

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    I just found a blog where multiple people fixed this problem by first making sure coolant is bled properly and then topping off radiator fluid.

    "Nowadays we mostly check the overflow reservoir for coolant level but there can actually be a couple of inches air space in the radiator itself. Open it when cold, top it up, swishing gone!"

    This is pretty frustrating. I wasted half my day and now I have to give Toyota trained mechanics tips on doing their job. Ok...guess I just needed to vent.

    Really appreciate your help!
     
  8. andrewclaus

    andrewclaus Active Member

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    All the noises you're hearing could be caused by air in the system. 1) The gurgling in your heater core is at the highest point of the coolant system. 2) The dragging sound while driving could be air in the belt-driven engine coolant pump. In that case, the sound would go away when driving on battery only. 3) And air in the coolant recovery pump, which only runs on shut down and cold startup, causes cavitation that may sound like knocking. Is the knocking accompanied by several seconds of a grinding noise?

    Have you driven the car very far? It's surprising the engine hasn't overheated.

    If the system is drastically underfilled, the reservoir system may not be working, so the level in the reservoir may not be accurate. The mechanic needs to remove the plastic splash shield (six tricky little fasteners) that covers the radiator filler neck to get the system primed and working. Don't access this yourself unless the radiator is cold to the touch.
     
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  9. daisy555

    daisy555 Active Member

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    Thank you! I have only driven to dealership and back twice and ran a few local errands. Afraid of causing damage. Need to go back early tomorrow because I have long distance drive to make tomorrow night.

    The knocking sound isn't heard all the time but noticed during start up at dealership twice during test drive I insisted they do.

    I'm not touching anything. Was going to change engine air filter today. That's it.

    Should I drive over extra early to let car cool down before they work on it?

    Really appreciate the additional details!
     
  10. daisy555

    daisy555 Active Member

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    How would I even no if engine is starting to overheat? There isn't a gauge, right? I was initially told to turn heat on if I was concerned. If it's that much of a concern, I would stop and get car towed for repair. I can't take any risks with this.
     
  11. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I don't think you are at risk of it over heating. Since your heater is working, there is adequate coolant in the system
     
  12. Nash1@1

    [email protected] Junior Member

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  13. Nash1@1

    [email protected] Junior Member

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    I had same problem but I fixed it
    First of all you need pleading the inventer coolant system there is air when water pump starts pushing the coolant there air and coolant that's why it make noise if you don't bleed it you might lose the water pump soon .
     
  14. daisy555

    daisy555 Active Member

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    Ok...so I'm hoping my two 20 minute drives back and forth to the dealer (not including tomorrow) haven't caused damage to water pump already.

    Thanks!
     
  15. daisy555

    daisy555 Active Member

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    Go figure couldn't repeat water gushing sound for service manager after it happening every time I shut car off : / then engine light came on as we were test driving.

    They are bleeding coolant again. He showed me the process and went over the list of concerns posted here.

    The new code is for P1116 temp sensor. He wants to be sure code wasn't just tripped due to present issue before ordering part and replacing. If there is more than one sensor, this one is near or under driver side headlight.

    I have to drive out of town this afternoon. He assured me failing temp sensor would not cause damage. Note to self...do not read another Prius chat post regarding code P1116. I read one about the worst nightmare ever.

    Water gushing has mostly subsided and hoping engine light stays off! Thanks!
     
    #15 daisy555, Dec 5, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2016
  16. daisy555

    daisy555 Active Member

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    P1116 Coolant Temp Sensor needs to be replaced: $235

    I guess I continue on this thread even through it's a different code and part now?

    Tech did bleed coolant line 3rd time which has solved the water gushing sound. Moaning sound I was hearing is supposedly the car sounding more like it used to sound when I bought it. Seems like the sound was almost non existent for a while (or maybe I'm just not remembering) long before the engine light came on stating coolant valve needs replacing.

    So I'm wondering why P1116 all of a sudden popped up after valve was replaced. Is it typical that both would go around the same time? One cause the other to occur? Why didn't both codes go off at same time if both parts were failing?

    I called Toyota customer service to register this repair since there is a TBS for this problem on early models. Actually found a dealer in CA that posted this valve is prone to sticking and referred to 2004-2009 models. Any thoughts?

    This link is really scaring me:

    2007 Prius P1116 code and coolant control valve issues | PriusChat
     
  17. andrewclaus

    andrewclaus Active Member

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    One thing I take from that link is that an improperly installed three-way valve can cause that code.
     
  18. daisy555

    daisy555 Active Member

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    Thanks for reading posted link, Andrew!

    I did already ask if they were positive valve was installed properly and service manager said yes. He said they even examined water pump (replaced during recall) and jacked car up to look for any coolant leaks. He also assured me only Prius trained tech is working on car with this level of repair.

    He showed me the valve once it was in place. Looked new but who knows if it's actually correctly installed. I called the only other local, reliable Toyota dealer today to get price quotes just to make me feel better. (Is that possible?) $575 for that darn valve and then $235 for sensor.

    So if sensor really needs replacing I will have received both repairs for less than price of replacing just valve at other dealer. Plus this service manager has been sensitive to my lack of income and did not charge me diagnostic fee unless he just forgot.

    I'm having flashbacks to my SAAB 900s that had three batteries replaced before I insisted they must look beyond the battery. Many years ago but feels like yesterday.

    I've been concerned about slight sound under front of car that occurs occasionally when I drive over slight bump especially when making a turn. I heard this when I bought car but could not repeat for dealer who was inspecting it. Didn't hear much of it over the summer but now with cold air it's coming back again. Sort of a creaky old bed sound. Accidentally came across a link about sway bar bushings and links... blah blah blah. I don't hear sound when driving or going over normal speed bumps. Just occasionally when going really slowly over a bump or slight decline out of a driveway. Guess I should expect another hefty repair down the road. Wish I could buy new instead of inheriting inevitable repairs. Off the pity pot I must go.... Thanks!
     
    #18 daisy555, Dec 6, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2016
  19. daisy555

    daisy555 Active Member

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    PS: I just spoke with one of the most reliable Prius garages I know of and manager said coolant heat storage tank is what should be examined along with wiring before replacing sensor. She also said if my car had been purchased in CA the coolant valve and sensor would be covered since my car only has 104,000 miles on it. I did make sure I bought a CA CARB emissions car but not purchased in CA but why would these coolant parts be covered in CA but not CT? Another call to Toyota tomorrow. Please forgive rambling...I'm obviously upset. Thanks!
     
  20. andrewclaus

    andrewclaus Active Member

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    Incorrect installation consists of reversing two of the hose connections--easy to do and not easily seen. Trained techs make mistakes, too. Apparently one of them didn't get your coolant system filled up.
     
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