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2013 Prius v (lowercase v for the Prius v wagon) won't start after front brake pad replacement

Discussion in 'Prius v Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by adammharvey, Jan 31, 2017.

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  1. adammharvey

    adammharvey New Member

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    I replaced my front pads and disconnected the negative cable from the 12v. I reconnected the 12v and the car turns on but the engine does not turn on. I see a lot of tutorials on how to put any prius into maintenance mode on the screen but I am unable to find a tutorial for a 2013 prius v (lowercase v for the Prius v wagon).
     
    #1 adammharvey, Jan 31, 2017
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Patron saint of newly poured sidewalks

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    You're thinking with maintenance mode to force the engine on? I do not know, that might be a wild goose chase, to cure a symptom.

    A puzzler..., try disconnecting the neg cable, wait a few minutes, reconnect, try start up again?

    Nothing else was done, say fuse pull, per gen 2??
     
    #2 Mendel Leisk, Jan 31, 2017
  3. adammharvey

    adammharvey New Member

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    I didn't have a multimeter handy with me and I wanted to visually see the battery strength. I was able to get it into the correct mode to do so and the battery seems fine but the car will still not start correctly. When I have my foot on the brake and turn it on, I put the car into drive and it goes into neutral. After that it yells at me to put it back into park. I am unable to get this car to actually run.
     
    #3 adammharvey, Jan 31, 2017
    Mendel Leisk and iamvietdang like this.
  4. Air_Boss

    Air_Boss Senior Member

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    Just wondering; why disconnect the battery when changing front disc pads?
     
    #4 Air_Boss, Jan 31, 2017
  5. adammharvey

    adammharvey New Member

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    From what I read, if you dont and by chance have your keyfob on you, it will compress the brake cylinders. which will screw up some things.
     
    #5 adammharvey, Jan 31, 2017
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Patron saint of newly poured sidewalks

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    You may be ok as long as you don't open driver's door, start the brake pressurizing process. Personally, I figure belts-and-braces: I want to be real sure it doesn't happen: could pop out a piston when caliper is off the rotor. Disconnecting the 12 volt battery ensures nothing's going to happen, regardless what you do.
     
    #6 Mendel Leisk, Jan 31, 2017
  7. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Does it go to "Ready" after you start it? With error lights out?
     
    #7 rjparker, Jan 31, 2017
  8. Air_Boss

    Air_Boss Senior Member

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    Pressurizing the accumulator does not affect distribution line pressure.
     
    #8 Air_Boss, Jan 31, 2017
  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Patron saint of newly poured sidewalks

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    When you replaced pads, did you pump brake pedal a few times before hooking the 12 volt up and attempting to start the car. I'm thinking if you didn't: maybe the car's detected excess brake pedal travel, and accordingly locking out Drive? No warning lights though??

    Grasping at straws though.
     
    #9 Mendel Leisk, Jan 31, 2017
  10. adammharvey

    adammharvey New Member

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    When I replaced the pads, I connected everything gain, went to start the car but nothing happened. I realized I didnt connect the negative to the 12v. Once I connected the negatvie I pressed the brake and went to turn it on but the engine did not turn on. All lights turn on but the engine will not.
     
    #10 adammharvey, Jan 31, 2017
  11. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Does it go to "Ready" with error lights out?
     
    #11 rjparker, Jan 31, 2017
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  12. adammharvey

    adammharvey New Member

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    No ready is shown
     
    #12 adammharvey, Jan 31, 2017
  13. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    No Ready means no engine or inverter control. I assume you have the triangle hybrid error light. The system will go into neutral without a Ready light to allow it to be pushed out of a parking spot.
     
    #13 rjparker, Jan 31, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2017
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  14. adammharvey

    adammharvey New Member

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    I'm about to take my wheels off again and take a look because this seems like it might not be a battery issue since the 12v is doing its job.
     
    #14 adammharvey, Jan 31, 2017
  15. adammharvey

    adammharvey New Member

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    Great
     
    #15 adammharvey, Jan 31, 2017
  16. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    You indicate the 12v is ok but maybe it isn't. I would put a charger on it or use one of the jump start boxes (extremely carefully) to ensure the battery is not low. That can cause a failure to achieve Ready state. Maybe you ran it down with doors open at some point.
     
    #16 rjparker, Jan 31, 2017
  17. adammharvey

    adammharvey New Member

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    I took a read of it and it states 12v but it drops when anything the car does, down to 11.6-11.4.
     
    #17 adammharvey, Jan 31, 2017
  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Patron saint of newly poured sidewalks

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    12.0? How are you measuring this, with a digital volt meter, with the car shut down? That's not very good btw, near toasted. You should do a charging session if that's the case.
     
    #18 Mendel Leisk, Jan 31, 2017
  19. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    #19 rjparker, Jan 31, 2017
  20. adammharvey

    adammharvey New Member

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    I went through the cars system display option. press button without foot on brake, hold the car button, while turning the lights on and off three times. After the third time lift finger from button and then your in. From there it shows you the voltage that the battery is pushing out.
     
    #20 adammharvey, Jan 31, 2017
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