Another Android Head Unit Ask - 2013 JBL w/Nav

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Audio and Electronics' started by Michael Keenan, Feb 22, 2020.

  1. Michael Keenan

    Michael Keenan Junior Member

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    Hello All,
    I recently purchased a 2013 Prius Four with less that 50k miles, the Performance Plus Package, Moonroof and Solar Roof Package! This is my third Prius. My wife will be getting the 2013 Prius V Five that I had been driving and I used to have a 2006 Prius before then.
    I'm quite happy with the car, but after three iterations of the crappy infotainment package I'm really ready to upgrade the head unit.
    It's got the JBL with Navigation package and I'm trying to put together everything that I need to do this while maintaining as much stock options as possible. Amazon sensed my weakness and shot me an alert for a lightning deal on the ATOTO A6 Pro A6Y2721PRB that I had in my Wish List giving a $37.35 discount so I had to take it and ordered today.
    I'd like to keep:
    JBL Amp
    Steering wheel controls
    Stock backup camera
    Stock microphone
    I've tried to scour the threads as much as possible to figure out what I needed - thank you all for your knowledge and experience. I think I've figured out what else I'll need to order.
    This is what I've got so far:
    For the backup camera I've got the - PAC CAM-TY11 Reverse Camera Harness
    Do I need a 12v to 6v converter? ​
    For the steering wheel controls and the JBL Amp I've got either the PAC RP4.2-TY11 or the Metra TYTO-01
    This is my biggest question. Not just between the two, but whether or not they will do the job​
    For the Dash kit I've got the Metra 95-8226B Dash Kit
    I may also get the ATOTO AC-4450 Diagnostic Scanner
    I've seen a thread or two on splicing the microphone wires, but I haven't found any adapter.

    Any insight and/or opinions would be appreciated.
    Thanks!
    Mike
     
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  2. elementnomore

    elementnomore Member

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  3. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Toyota native reverse vision cameras are 6 volt. Most aftermarket decks are set to supply 12v, so you probably need a regulator. I used the cheap Axxess one, worked great.

    The stock microphone includes a preamp and it winds up as a poor match for anything other than a stock Toyota deck. I wound up gutting the mic in ours so that I could make use of the stock housing and mount location for native appearance. Up inside, it's got the mic that came with the head unit soldered onto the Toyota cable harness. In my dash, the Toyota mic wires are broken out of the harness and adapted onto a miniplug connector for my Sony deck. I would expect to have to do this with just about any aftermarket stereo.
     
    #3 Leadfoot J. McCoalroller, Feb 23, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2020
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  4. Michael Keenan

    Michael Keenan Junior Member

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    Leadfoot, thanks for the help.
    Are you saying that you think that I'll need the voltage regulator even with the PAC CAM-TY11 harness?
    Something like the Axxess AX-CAM6V?
    Can't post links yet.
    :(
     
  5. Michael Keenan

    Michael Keenan Junior Member

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    Leadfoot, as far as the microphone I figured that I would need to either mount the microphone on the steering wheel or get into the overhead microphone compartment and try to figure out a wiring hack. I haven't been able to find any videos for getting into the microphone compartment so I'm not too sure what I'm getting into. I think I could probably find something about splicing microphone wires without too much trouble though.
     
  6. Michael Keenan

    Michael Keenan Junior Member

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    Or should I just run the microphone up the A pillar and tuck under the headliner and clip on there.
     
  7. Michael Keenan

    Michael Keenan Junior Member

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    Leadfoot,
    I've found this page that explains the wiring in a TRS audio jack. Seem right to you?
     
  8. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Generally the key is to match the mic with the deck. Except I didn't want the new mic out and exposed, so I gutted the factory mic. After i took the dome light out it's right there, easy to grab. Might be different in your car. I spliced the Sony TRS connector & a few inches of cable onto the mic lines.

    I don't know if that PAC harness contains a voltage regulator. You're going to need a regulator one way or another; combo harness might save you a few bucks.
     
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  9. Michael Keenan

    Michael Keenan Junior Member

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    Was the microphone line a seperate wire, or did you have to break the mic wires out of the harness?

    The PAC CAM-TY11 Reverse Camera Harness says:

    The harness will provide 6 volt power output, if you are using a camera that is NOT capable of being powered by 6 volts, you must find your own source of 12 volt ACC power

    So, it looks like it will work.
     
  10. Michael Keenan

    Michael Keenan Junior Member

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  11. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    I spliced the Sony mic onto the Toyota mic wires up by the dome light where the microphone wires are their own branch of the harness. Then in the dash I cut the mic wires out of the Toyota harness connector and spliced them onto the 3" of wire trailing off of the Sony TRS plug.

    The PAC harness description sounds good to me, I agree.
     
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  12. Michael Keenan

    Michael Keenan Junior Member

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    I'm assuming you didn't do any soldering in your car, so we're just talking cut, strip, twist and electrical tape? Or is there something else you can use for wires that small a gauge?
     
  13. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    I happened to do it all with crimp connectors, but I've soldered in situations like this as well. It mostly comes down to what you're tooled up for and used to.

    Thinking back, I did solder the connections from the Sony microphone to the connector pins on the Toyota mic module, but that was at my bench. I returned the mic module to the car and clicked it back onto the harness in the roof pod. All the other wiring work was done with ordinary small gauge insulated crimp caps.

    Nice avatar!
     
    #13 Leadfoot J. McCoalroller, Feb 24, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2020
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  14. Michael Keenan

    Michael Keenan Junior Member

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    #14 Michael Keenan, Feb 25, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2020
  15. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Uh, a little. I can dance.
     
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  16. Michael Keenan

    Michael Keenan Junior Member

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    That was just beautiful, sir.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  17. TNToy

    TNToy New Member

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    Hook your fingertips in at the upper edge of the windshield and pop the small blank panel down with a sharp yank.

    Set it aside.

    pop the leading edge of the dome light assembly down, then each of the back corners. Don’t pull the back edge down more than about 1/2”.

    Once all four corners are unclipped, side it forward and out to disengage the hooks at the rear edge which are up over the headliner, and it will come down cleanly.
     
  18. Michael Keenan

    Michael Keenan Junior Member

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    Just to follow up on this, I was able do install the Atoto A6 and decided to do everything except the microphone splice.
    I just ran the wire up under the dash, past the steering wheel, up the A pillar and under the roofing by the windshield. Turns out that having Android Auto on the Atoto was a bit of a hack though and I needed to install HeadUnit Reloaded to get it to work. Problem was that Atoto had a persistent drop down during the call that ate up the top 3/4" of the screen of Android Auto.
    So, for that and some other reasons I returned it and got a Jensen Car1000.
    I can now take my dash apart with my eyes closed.
    Thanks all for your input and assistance.
     
  19. TNToy

    TNToy New Member

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    At least its an easy dash.

    Pry panel, pull panel loose, pull panel loose, pull panel loose, remove 4 10mm bolts. Done.

    I had my Pioneer out probably 12 times during my install, too. Mainly for wiring the aftermarket backup camera and securing the harnesses to get rid of a rattle.
     
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