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Been through gambit with my 2001 need help

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by Kurtis, Sep 7, 2021.

  1. Kurtis

    Kurtis New Member

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    So I’ve been through hell and back with this car. It all started when I changed the steering gear. Two subframe bolts snapped on each side both by the doors of the car. My gf dad ended up welding it back up after I put everything back together.

    As soon as I declared victory the battery was dead. It was 3 am or 4 am. I had been work on this car for a week straight until that time. As stupid as it sounds I didn’t notice some one replaced the negative cable with red wire and the black cable was missing the nice plastic red piece. So of course I reversed the polarity.

    Well next I changed the 100 amp and then the inverter. Now I’m thinking the MG2 is fried I’m getting p3120 and p3125, I’m also getting C1259, any ideas what else I fried?

    I’ve used JustAnswer and that took almost a week for someone to answer, he helped me until this part and ran out of his knowledge of hybrids.
    I’m at the point of either piecing this car out or trying to figure it out. Everything I’ve read on here says you need to lower subframe to access mg2 if that’s what’s wrong. Of course that’s impossible as it’s welded. I saw lucious video of the mg2 and it doesn’t look like she removed the subframe or even lowered it.

    So I forgot after I replaced the blown fuses the car started up. I heard a loud squeal and then the car never started again. I smelled burning rubber, but not completely rubber. It wasn’t electrical burn smell, but it wasn’t completely rubber either.

    So now onto my current symptoms. I turn the key to start it and the engine bucks. My mom bf says the engine tries to move forward, I stated it was probably the way the mounts are, and that it makes sense it would because there isn’t a mount directly in front of the engine itself. So the engine attempts to start, but doesn’t.

    I inspected the belt on the engine and it looks fine and has no smell. I inspected the wires for the inverter and saw nothing either. Also I checked the old inverter, my mom’s bf checked the capacitors and they are still good. There is however some black near where the hybrid battery hooks up are at the bottom. I’m not sure if that’s damage or not, looks like that shouldn’t be there, however. The circuit board looks good, might be black on the bottom, I’m not sure.

    I’m running out of things to check beside the mg2 and mg1. How do I check those?
    Also, how do I check the hybrid battery itself? The 12v battery is fine, 5 amp and 120 amp is good also. Any help is appreciated. This was suppose to be for my gf and it’s not going so well
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    you need a copy of tech stream
     
  3. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Gonna likely need a lot more than that....

    Was the car functioning prior to the initial steering gear job?
     
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Or, if not Techstream, some kind of scan tool that is able to read the supplemental "INF codes" from the HV ECU to go with the P3120 and P3125 that you have. (Somebody once figured out how to program a ScanGauge II to read those INF codes, if I remember right. Techstream is the go-to solution though.)

    The reason that's so important in this case is that P3120 has twenty-four different INF codes that would all be indicating different issues ranging from mechanical problems inside the transaxle to wiring problems in the MG1 or MG2 resolvers or temperature sensors, and so on, and needless to say, the steps for fixing issues from such a wide selection could be very different.

    P3125 is just like that only more so: it's got 81 different INF codes, all indicating different things that could be going on with the inverter, converter, or the wiring linking them up to each other and the transaxle and the ECUs.
     
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  5. Kurtis

    Kurtis New Member

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    Yea the car was functioning but the steering was going and doing it more frequently where my gf was scared of it. Everything functioned prior to this dumb thing I did.
     
  6. Kurtis

    Kurtis New Member

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    I have ordered one from amazon, more than I care to spend on a hacked version of program with a virus on it. I’m savvy enough to get rid of it, but I’m buying a junk window laptop to use it. I’m not risking my expensive MacBook getting some junky viruses on it.

    I am aware of the three digit codes as I have purchased the shop manual with all the diagrams, repairs, and supplement manual too. Im hoping it’s just a wiring harness or something. Replacing the mg2 cost wise idk if it’s worth it to me. The entire exhaust system has been butchered because when I first bought the car the exhaust developed a hole at the catalytic converter and it was bad. So I had a straight pipe put on with an after market muffler. The car no longer get 50 mpg, it’s more like 30-35 mpg now.

    this car has been through a ton in the four years I’ve owned it lol
     
  7. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Look on the bright side, if you kept the old catalytic converter(s) you can get over a grand for them now just for scrap.

    When you try to start the car and the engine 'bucks', does this mean the engine is actually spinning for ignition or does it try to spin (causing the 'bucking' forward) but is acting more like it's seized?
     
  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Getting those three digit codes will really help. Some of them could indicate actual mechanical issues inside the tranny, others could indicate issues with the rotor position resolvers. The car applies magnetic fields relative to how it thinks the rotors are positioned, and if that information is off, the motion won't be what's expected. Some of the possible issues could be simple. It is safest not to try to guess at them.
     
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  9. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    it won't run on mac anyway
     
  10. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    You can run it on a Mac in a VM like VMware or Parallels. You can also create a Win 7 BootCamp and run it there.
     
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  11. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    if your mac is adequate. my 8 year old macbook pro doesn't have what it takes
     
  12. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Runs fine on my 9 yo MBP.
     
  13. Kurtis

    Kurtis New Member

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    Hey guys I have an update now on the codes
    So I have p3120-240 and p3125-265

    looking at the manual it says on the inverter I have a short still does that mean the used inverter I put in is no good?

    also I read on here someone received 240 on their gen 1 And it ended up being the ac compressor. Mine was going before I stored this car while replacing the parts. I had the blinking green light and the compressor refusing to kick in at most times especially when it was hot. The ac seemed to work not very often even when cooler outside like 70’s. I tried to recharge the system many times and it really didn’t work. I have a used compressor I haven’t put in yet. I also over the winter had to replace the fan blower and transistor for the heat to come back on.
    So I have been having issues with the hvac in this car.
    Could that loud squealing noise that just increased in noise until the car shut off be a crap A/c compressor?

    I know it’s possible it’s the stator but I’m not jumping to that yet, let me know what you guys think?
     
  14. AlexY

    AlexY Member

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    Gen1 A/C is driven by ICE not by inverter like gen2 does, only thing there is a electromagnetic clutch that you can disconnect to see if it is causing short circuit code (I don't think so). Basically reversing 12V supply can burn many component in circuits not protected by reverse protection diode. If I'm in your boots I would open every single unit and check for signs of burnt components, trouble is not all are failing visibly.
     
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  15. Kurtis

    Kurtis New Member

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    May be a noob question but what is ICE and and do you think just wire harnesses or actual components I messed up? I don’t smell burnt wires. The only burn smell I smelled was from when I started it that time and a belt squealing noise came on and got louder and louder until the car shut itself off and hasn’t started since. The engine tries pulling the car forward when I try to start it
     
  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    P3125-265 indicates that one wire between the inverter and the HV ECU is either open, or shorted to ground somewhere. It is the NODD circuit, a blue-with-orange-stripe wire from connector C4 pin 4 at the inverter to connector H12 pin 4 at the HV ECU. If you check that circuit out (as the manual says, it's rare that a wire just breaks somewhere in the middle, more likely to be near a connector, corrosion-related, etc.), you might find a simple wiring issue to fix. If you prove out that there's no wiring issue, then it might be the used inverter.

    Can you find where you read that again? It would be interesting to see how that conclusion was reached. P3120-240 is reported if the ECU thinks MG1 inside the transaxle is unable to turn.

    If you jack up one front corner of the car, leaving the other on the ground, and shift into neutral with the car off, are you able to turn the jacked-up wheel by hand?
     
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  17. Kurtis

    Kurtis New Member

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    im currently at school and will be back there at the weekend where my other car is, but this is the link for the 240 with the ac compressor.
    2001 Prius transaxle failure OR a/c compressor failure in disguise? | PriusChat

    defintely made me wonder, but I’ll be checking everything mentioned here when I get back at it. I appreciate any and all help I get. This is my first time working the Prius like this
     
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  18. AlexY

    AlexY Member

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    When you don't know something - google it before ask, this way you will save your and others time and create less "digital pollution".
    ICE is Internal Combustion Engine, petrol motor in your car.
    When you smell burning things (whatever it is) - shut it down immediately and disconnect all possible power sources, then diagnose until you find reason of failure and never repeat power up step until it is definitely found and fixed.
    In regards of thread with A/C blocking drivetrain - that's surprise for me as there must be 2 faults, compressor itself and clutch both stuck.
     
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  19. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    'ICE' is a shibboleth we use here at PriusChat to spot people who may already know perfectly well what an engine is but haven't been properly initiated into our cult yet.
     
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  20. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Got it. Yeah, in his case, the A/C compressor pulley bearing seized up, 88301 here (though it is usually easier to find the whole 88410 as an orderable part and it can be cheaper than the constituent parts).

    That pulley is the part that is always driven by the belt, whether the compressor clutch is engaged or disengaged. The poster in that other thread confirmed "the clutch spins by hand" (meaning the inner, pressure plate part 88403, meaning the compressor itself was ok). If that outer pulley is seized up so that, via the belt, it restrains the engine from turning when MG1 tries to crank it over, the HV ECU can be forgiven for thinking MG1 might be seized up.

    [​IMG]

    It'll be easy enough to find out if this applies to you. The test I suggested earlier (jack up one front corner, shift to neutral, can you spin the jacked-up tire by hand?) will tell you about MG1. If you can spin the tire by hand (and this doesn't turn the engine ;)), MG1 itself is ok.

    Then you can check with both wheels on the ground, can you turn the engine easily, say with a wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt? (If you take the spark plugs out first, it should even turn easily by hand, but that's a bunch of extra work. Plugs in, it should still turn easily enough with a wrench.)

    If it's hard to turn the crankshaft, then loosen the belt idler pulley and the belt and try again. :) With the belt off, see if you can turn the water pump, the A/C pulley, and the idler pulley by hand. Fix any that won't turn, or feel rough or make noise.

    With the A/C compressor, you can do the same check that other poster did: try turning the pressure-plate (88403) portion by hand. If that turns smoothly, the compressor is ok. Don't replace the whole compressor then, that's just a bigger unnecessary job involving refrigerant recovery and the whole nine yards. If only the pulley is seized, it's just a clutch-replacement job; there's a thread for that.
     
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