Blown Head gasket rebuild....@297k

Do you all think that just replacing the head gasket and checking/repairing the cylinder is the way to go rather than replacing the entire engine?

 

Just from what I've been reading here: replacing the engine (with relatively low mileage salvage engine) might be cheaper. The labour is the killer doing a rebuild. On the flip side, a salvage engine is a gamble, hopefully not abused.

I don't really have the experience to say the sweet spot for mileage on the salvage engine, but for sure the lower the mileage the better your odds it will be problem free.

Also, there's a couple of members here now that have used 4th Gen salvage engines. They're relatively cheap and low miles. Here's a 15 part video on such a swap. Some adjustments are needed, but food for thought.

Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v | Page 2 | PriusChat

In the video he mentions LKQ for salvage engines. He also mentions his engine had damaged oil pan which he needed to replace. I wouldn't doubt that damage was incurred due to their shipping method: upright and strapped to a wooden shipping pallet.

Talk to your mechanic too, they can give the pros and cons of each approach. Much depends on their labour charge for rebuild.

 

Thank You

 

Troubles again.
Engine knocks again.
Well after about 40.000miles of replacing HG, new egr valve cleaned egr cooler and IM . temps this morning 60f car has 119k k mi now. Engine knocks again check engine is on. No OCC in my car. Didnt believe it will happen again so soon.no coolant missing. No oil burning. Car still gets 50mpg.
I know you guys will critisize me for not having the OCC. I can only say that i secided to clean the bottom of the IM every 10k miles and soak the oil puddle out. So it was done like 3 times in past year.that was the preventive thung i decided to do.
Noe im hoping its olnly a wet morning and some condensation inside IM.

 

I cleaned our 2010’s egr circuit after about 50k miles and found it in similar condition to the first time I did it. Yours is probably filling back up too.

But the catch can will collect the light components. I’ve noticed further north that I’m getting a bit more material. So a good solution.

 

One thing that's been oft noted here: if you do something like start the car (cold) drive it just a few moments, and shut it down, and then it sits overnight., then start it up the next morn: that's when the knocking "tends to come knocking".

Something about that scenario triggers the knocking. That's actually the one time I've experienced it with ours; I do all I can to avoid that now. If, for example, I need to get the car from the garage to the street, I'll do it in little 10 second bursts, always shutting down before the engine starts. If I leave it too long and the engine does start, then I'll leave it idling a good while, ideally till it shuts itself down.

Seems like there's clues in that, wonder why that would be.

 

I was trying not turn off the engine while it was warming . waited about a minute maybe more. but knocks and vibrations didnt go. So i turned it off and restarted. The knocks are not there now. But check engine still there. Dont know the code yet. Busy day today.

 

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@Raytheeagle i know we talked about it a lot from every aspect. Im just wondering again if the weakest link here the IM or the Egr cooler . both were cleaned.

 

The ports are tiny within the cooler and as they restrict, become less efficient.

While the ports in the intake manifold are larger, oil can begin to collect and do similar things.

But both sources can be weak points.

 

But 40K miles back? Maybe carbon build-up is rearing it's head again? You could remove just the EGR pipe and see it's condition, how carbonned up it it is.

Also, if no Oil Catch Can I'd think if you push open the throttle body blades and look through, you'll see the "lake" below there. The MAP sensor just on the side there gets really oil-soaked, maybe still functional though.

Maybe Oil Catch Can slows the carbon build-up, who knows.

 

I will do the cooler and IM again tomorow. I have a clean cooler ready .

 

I do think we're starting to enjoy this stuff: watching @Ragingfit patiently running the chain through his hoist while the engine climbed outa the engine bay, I'm almost starting to look for an excuse to do it, lol.

 

Will you be a videographer as you go?

You’ve got the time to make it happen

 

IF you've pulled the intake 3 times, WHY not install the OCC? It's pretty easy to do with the manifold off.
And they are inexpensive. You also might have a bad pcv valve.

 

A pic of my Morosso can (85474) connects with a (loosely) bolted slotted-angle clip to the lower cross beam, best accessed from below, say during oil changes. They're getting pricey though.



If connecting a clip to the bottom beam, you want sort of rubber washers or gasket in the interface, so the beam can flex, say when using the front/center jack point. I used rubber washers in between the clip and the beam, and through bolts, with the first nut installed finger-tight, and then a second nut torqued against the first, acting as a lock nut.

If you drill holes through the top flange for bolts, it's JUST possible to sneak the bolts through existing voids in the bottom flange. Still, it's very awkward. If I was doing it again I might drill smaller holes for self-tapping screws. Again, with rubber in the interface, and not torqued-down completely.

 

Didnt think it will happen again that fast. But yes next tome will change all valves there