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Brake work - DIY??

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by 72fordgts, Oct 1, 2012.

  1. 72fordgts

    72fordgts Member

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    Our 2010 Prius has about 57K miles on it (mostly highway and rural commuting). The rear brakes just started to make some noise the other day at low speeds. It sounds like a light metallic squeal, similar to a brake pad wear indicator. It only occurs at low speeds and in reverse. Last time I checked the pads, they had lots of life, but that was in the spring.

    I'd like to take apart the brakes to service them, but I don't know if this is a DIYer job on a Pruis. I have tons of experience on auto repairs, and have done hundreds of brake jobs (I also perform auto restoration as a hobby and have done almost every type of mechanical work on a car). So I am not really worried about my skill, but I am worried about knowing the proper procedure to do the repairs on a Pruis.

    Is this something I can do? Has anyone done any brake work on a 2010+ Prius? It just so hard to pay a dealership to do this work when I can do it for a fraction of the cost myself (all my other vehicles are self maintained).
     
  2. pjksr02

    pjksr02 Active Member

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    I'm sure someone will search out the links, but you may wish to have the following, before working in your brakes:

    A repair manual, giving torque values, the steps to take to avoid setting an error code, and telling how to bleed the brake system on a Prius. Techstream would provide the most straightforward way to bleed the brakes, but there is a way to do it without Techstream, by entering "maintenance mode."

    If you are not equipped with the above, you might be better off taking it in...
     
  3. 72fordgts

    72fordgts Member

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    This is the information I need. What exactly is the techstream, I am assuming it's a computer program? Where can you get the service manual for these cars? I'd invest in what's required because I know it's worth it to have in the long run (we plan to keep this car for a while yet).
     
  4. rrg

    rrg Active Member

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    I have used and played with the Techstream setup. It's a computer (can be a personal PC) with special dealer subscription based software and a special obdbII cable that cost in the $hundreds.

    I do not own one so it's not an option for me.
    I have not found the DIY procedure with out Techstream for the 2011, yet.
     
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I suspect if you visually inspect the rear brakes without disassembly you'll see they still have lots of pad thickness.

    I've noticed a slight sound on ours, off-and-on, for some time now, but not at all recently. I think it's some harmonic of the anti-rattle clips coming into play. It's very intermittent when it happens, typically only in reverse, for the first few seconds backing out of the garage. So far I've ignored it and it's not happened of late.

    I've removed re-lubed and re-installed (or replaced) pads on a number of personal vehicles over the years, but I'm leary about touching the Prius brakes due to the electronics. That coupled with the very low usage they get, with the regen doing the brunt of the braking, this is one I might leave to the dealership, with a pretty long service interval. Maybe get them to replace the fluid at the same time.
     
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  6. pjksr02

    pjksr02 Active Member

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    It's all on this site. For your convenience, I've attached the bleeding procedure(s):
     

    Attached Files:

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  7. 72fordgts

    72fordgts Member

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    Okay, so the techstream is like a GM Tech 2, so I could see that being big bucks.

    Thanks for the info on the Prius bleed. I will play around with the search to see if I can find the brake pad/service page like that, I haven't had the best luck with the search engine so far. It says on this document that you can service the brakes by putting the elctronically control brakes in invalid more. That is very helpful. I am assuming this would work to disassemble the brakes too, but I shouldn't assume with a car like this.

    I am not worried about the mechanical repair procedures, I just don't want to bugger up the eletronics on the brakes. Last I checked the brakes we still had a fair amount. My plan was to disassmeble, lube the calipers, scuff the rotors and pads, and add some anti-squeel to the back of the pads. I figure that should eliminate the brake noise, and the calipers probably could use a good cleaning and lube anyway (I just did my Tundra's last week, and made a massive difference).

    I called Toyota, my local dealer wants $216 + taxt to service all four brakes (that's replacing no parts, no doesn't include a brake bleed). That seems high to me, but I can't really take it elsewhere.

    Thanks for the help so far. Is anyone has any other helpful information or links it would be greatly appreciated.
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    That's reasonable, in my experience, if they're doing a decent service, ie: removing the pads, cleaning, relubing all contact points.

    I thought there was a service bulletin regarding that squeak in reverse, they had a revised anti-rattle clip, that may-or-may-not cure it. Maybe ask about that.

    Is it 57K miles, not kilometers? If so that translates to 91K kilometers, and that's actually overdue for brake service. Well worth doing. I believe, in my interpretation of the convoluted Maintance Schedule, you're supposed to do a complete brake service (not the quick visual check) every 32000 km's. See bottom of page spreadsheet here:

    2010 Prius Maintenance Schedule (Canadian) | PriusChat

    (the image files also posted have been orphaned since the site upgrade)

    Regarding brake fluid replacement:

    I know with Honda's we've had in past, brake fluid replacement was under $100, and I saw a ad for Open Road Toyo offering brake fluid replace for similar amount, no mention of particular car. Could be when you get there it would be "Oh, Prius, there's an extra charge...". Anyway, doesn't hurt to ask. FWIW: Honda recommends to replace fluid every 3 year, regardless of mileage. Toyota makes no mention of brake fluid change, so your call.
     
  9. 72fordgts

    72fordgts Member

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    I suppose the price is okay, but you have to think of it from my perspective, when a typical brake service costs me basically nothing (some lube, sand paper, brake cleaner and an hour of my time). I mean, for something that will probably take a mechanic less than an hour, I just thought it was a bit steep, but I guess that's the price of mechanics these days.

    Yes, the car has 57K miles, 91K kms. It had the first brake service done by the dealer by the first owner. I know I am overdue for one (we rack a lot of highway miles on our car). I have been searching old threads and haven't found much detail for Gen III brake work. I did find this one thread where the guy did the work and didn't remove the 12volt battery or pull a fuse (which I am not sure), and it came out fine.

    Rear brake pad replacement for Gen 3 | PriusChat

    If anyone else has any input, please let me know. I really would like to be able to at least do the brakes on this car my self. Someone on here must have done some brake work??
     
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  10. jjPrius

    jjPrius Junior Member

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    Hello 72fordgts,

    For the simple cleaning and re-lubricating service of the pads, shims, hardware, etc., there is nothing out of the ordinary. I performed this on my 2011 earlier this year @40k miles and found it worthwhile as it greatly reduced noise. Granted, the service was nothing more than a check / clean / lube; nothing done to hydraulics, fluid, electronics. Car was on four jack stands (be sure to leave driver's door closed for the duration of the service...this MAY cause an issue) with the parking brake released.

    Jeff
     
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  11. adamace1

    adamace1 Senior Member

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    I will take off your tires and inspect the pads for over 200$. I highly doubt they will do anything else.
     
  12. 72fordgts

    72fordgts Member

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    Awesome! Thank you. This is what I needed to hear. I just want to do a clean, lube, check. 90% of the time this works to get rid of annoying brake squeel (at least on my other vehicles). I was just paranoid about messing something up with the electronics on the brakes, but I will be sure not to open the drivers door.
     
  13. sprtent

    sprtent Member

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    You can hear that from me too, 72fordgts. If you've done numerous brake jobs before, this is simply easier and should be more than just a walk in the park for you. At your mileage you should check the brake anyway since you are hearing noise. We all know brake don't wear evenly all the times. I've seen thinner inner pads than outer pads, or inner diameter thinner than outer diameter, or vice versa. It doesn't hurt to check them out. If they still have decent "meat", clean and lub. Replace if they are about to go. You loose nothing but gaining piece of mind and know the exact conditions of your brakes. I cleaned and lub-ed mine about 6 months ago. I also replaced brakes on my previous GS450h. If you just focus on doing the brakes, you don't have to worry about messing up other stuff.
     
  14. 72fordgts

    72fordgts Member

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    One other question. If by chance I have to replace the pads (I don't think I will), will it mess anything up when you compress the piston back into the caliper?
     
  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    ^I'm wondering the same thing. It seems to me the first time you step on the brake pedal after a pad replacement there will be excess travel, and that might trigger something.

    I've done innumerable pad cleanup or replacement in the past, but am concerned by the Prius' electronics, and the it's habit of pressurizing something when you open the driver's door. Considering the long life of pads due to regen braking, I'm likely going just let the pros do it.
     
  16. sprtent

    sprtent Member

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    I still think this should be an easy DIY if precausion steps are taken, ie. disconnect battery or don't open driver door.
    The worry is from an unintended activation of the brake vacuum actuator while the caliber is out of its assembly, cause the piston to travel way out of its normal range and start leaking fluid or throwing codes.

    But I supposed if one is not 100% condifent, then it should be left for the pro. Better safe than sorry, and safety for other members are what we should based our advise on :)
     
  17. 72fordgts

    72fordgts Member

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    Looks like one of my rear brakes are pretty worn, so I am going to a brake job. I pulled the caliper off to get a good inspection of them, and it set no codes. The brakes are super easy to work on so far.

    So, hopefully when I screw the rear piston back in for the new pads it doesn set a code.

    BTW, it will cost me the same to service the rear brakes at Toyota for me to replace pad AND rotors. I just have to wait until the weekend to do the work.
     
  18. jjPrius

    jjPrius Junior Member

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    Do you have a measurement of the lining thickness? When I inspected mine at 40k miles, there was virtually no wear from new (~9mm). Granted, I think that my daily drive is alot less brake-intensive than most.

    Jeff
     
  19. 72fordgts

    72fordgts Member

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    No I don't, but they wore unevenly as it looks like one pad got hung up recenty due to corrosion. The rotors are also gooved and rusted. I meant to clean the brakes in the spring, but didn't get around to it, so the rust caused premature wear. I am sure they would have lasted longer normally.
     
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  20. 72fordgts

    72fordgts Member

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    I ended up doing the rear brakes today. Pretty easy if you've done a brake job before. The one pad was seized solid which caused the other pad to wear prematurely (done to about 1-2mm). The other side of the car still had even wear but the caliper pins were in dire need of lubrication. The even side had 5mm of pad life left, so I figure if the pads hadn't have seized up due to corrosion, I probably could have double the milage. The rotors were due for a change though as the back side were very rusted and scored.

    I ended up disconnecting the battery to be on the safe side. The pistons compressed easy with my rear caliper tool. The only advice I can give to someone else doing this job is don't put too much lube in the caliper pin holes. The pins will not move through there full travel if there is too much lube and this will cause problems with the caliper movement.

    I bedded the brakes and it stops very strong and quiet now.