Coolant light on...not sure why

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by A.Liz, Jul 3, 2019.

  1. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    oh geez... I don't even know where to start... Let'sjust leave it at "misunderstanding"
     
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  2. A.Liz

    A.Liz Junior Member

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    Wow thanks so much, that is quite helpful. Searching now.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  3. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    Just for info's sake and to be absolutely certain.

    Engine cooling loop:
    *Traditional belt driven engine water pump-failure can be catastrophic and can leave you stranded.
    *thermostat-failure can be catastrophic and can leave you stranded.
    *CHRS pump- assuming its NOT leaking, failure NOT catastrophic and won't leave you stranded
    *cabin core heater pump- assuming its NOT leaking, failure NOT catastrophic and won't leave you stranded
    *radiator cap- failure can be catastrophic and can leave you stranded
    *3-way coolant control valve- assuming its NOT leaking, failure NOT catastrophic and won't leave you stranded
    *hoses for engine loop- failure can be catastrophic and can leave you stranded
    *radiator (upper portion belongs to engine loop)- failure can be catastrophic and can leave you stranded

    Inverter cooling loop:
    *inverter pump-failure can be catastrophic and can leave you stranded
    *hoses for inverter loop-failure can be catastrophic and can leave you stranded
    *radiator (lower portion belongs to inverter cooling loop)- failure can be catastrophic and can leave you stranded
    *inverter- failure can leave you stranded
    *transaxle- failure can leave you stranded
     
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  4. A.Liz

    A.Liz Junior Member

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    Should I just take it to Toyota to have the air removed??? I cannot stand incompetent repair providers who happily take money knowing damn well they dont know what they're doing. All this bc he forgot to replace the radiator cap? Then he blames the hybrid battery repair man? I'm so over this!

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  5. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    That is correct.

    Here is your confusion:
    You are confusing the inverter pump (~$100, lasts 100k miles +/- a few 10k miles, "easy" to replace),
    for the cabin heater pump (~$300, VERY VERY VERYLOW FAILURE RATE, PITA to replace).​

    I have no idea what you are talking about.
    Belt driven engine water pump activated when the gas engine is running.
    Cabin heater pump is activated by occupants and on demand, when they want heat.
    CHRS pump is activated by the car, as needed, at READY and OFF.
    Inverter pump is always activated when IG-ON or READY.​

    Then you should NOT be confusing the inverter pump for cabin heater pump or visa versa.

    Nope; the original has not failed yet. But, it sounds like you need some affirmation.
    Here's a custom emoticon badge for changing out your ABS pump: :)(y);)(y):D(y):rolleyes:(y):LOL:(y)
    Good for you.

    Good for you.

    Possible. But, at this point, doesn't matter. We (you and I) will continue on our merry way, believing what we believe: I am not going to convince you, and visa versa. I agree to disagree.

    For the benefit of others with far less knowledge, they will draw their own conclusion(s).
     
    #25 exstudent, Jul 5, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2019
  6. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    There should be no need for flushing chemicals if the drain/fill intervals have been followed for both engine and inverter cooling loops.

    These four links below are probably your best bet. Take notes so you don't have to print a million pages.
    Engine Loop:

    Inverter Loop:
    How to get into Inspection Mode (gas engine on continuous idle); read post #5.
     
    #26 exstudent, Jul 5, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2019
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  7. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    If the HV (High Voltage) battery was NOT replaced w/ a new OEM HV Battery (>$1600), or new cylindrical modules for $1600 from
    @2k1Toaster (http://www.newpriusbatteries.com/). Do not count on that used replacement to last long. New=made from 100% virgin materials. Many rebuilders use the following euphemisms for new: rebuilt, refurbished, reconditioned, remanufactured, ... . Kinda like CPO (Certified Pre-Owned) is a fancy way of saying used car. The problem w/ rebuilders is quality is all over the place; many hacks, few good builders.

    If you are NOT planning to keep the car long, hopefully the HV battery replacement will last.

    Only you can decide that. See post #26 above.

    YouTube is a good source to see what you will be getting into. HOWEVER, the veracity of the information and the steps taken, on some maintenance procedures, is all over the place. Weigh things you see on YouTube and read on evil Google, with a pound of salt.
     
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  8. oldtechaa

    oldtechaa Active Member

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    I assure you exstudent is right. The inverter coolant pump, located under the headlight, is approximately $100 and fails more commonly and is in a totally separate loop from the engine coolant. It runs all the time when the car is on, because it's in a very simple loop of just the inverter, transaxle, and radiator.

    When you really think about it, why would they bother having an electric pump that comes on when the engine is off? If the engine is off, it's not heating up.
     
  9. A.Liz

    A.Liz Junior Member

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    Okay, no way I can do that myself. It's way too complex for my skillset (which is nonexistent).

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  10. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i think this would be a good idea. call around, tell them the pump was replaced and ask how much to bleed the system.
     
  11. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    I would still encourage you to consider challenging yourself in the future. Many people have undertaken maintenance DIY tasks that they had thought were "too difficult." YouTube provides a good overview to see what you will be getting into. But, take the video w/ a pound of salt, as the info conveyed can be incorrect at times, but the overall process performed was completed. If the person in the video can do it, you can do it too, and even better by correctly tightening bolts/nuts to the correct specifications.

    The BEST example/role model for everyone to learn DIY, if interested in this stuff, is Carolyn Coquiliete, founder of Luscious Garage (San Franciso)! She came from a white collar household where NO ONE DIY, they paid for it. She graduated from University of Michigan, and was expected to enter the workforce doing something "white collar," and become self sufficient; this obviously didn't happen. Her story is very cool and motivating. Her presentation at her alma mater's Engineering Entrepreneurship program is transcribed here; unfortunately the video link no longer works.

    You could become the next Carolyn of the East Coast (if you are female). Plenty of mechanics (some to many bad, some to many ok), FEW GOOD ones. She started w/ zero knowledge about cars: add gas and go, never checked the engine oil level. Look at where she is at now.
     
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  12. A.Liz

    A.Liz Junior Member

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    Thanks for the encouragement!

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  13. A.Liz

    A.Liz Junior Member

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    Update:

    So I was able to get someone to bleed thr air coolant and check engine light is off (yay) but anytime I go over a certain speed, red triangle appears (in absence of check engine light) and thermostat icon appears. When I slow down/stop, it goes away. SIGH!!!

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  14. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Chasing this issue you really need some automotive tools. A tester that can pull the engine temp so you can see if you are winning or losing this battle. A Scangauge X gauge is a must. Its easy to use you just plug it into the obd port by your right knee.$150 at Amazon.com

    I have one there great. You would use it to monitor engine temperature. very important one good overheat and its new motor time.

    » ScanGauge II

    Alright if i was your buddy and came to your house first thing I would do is open the radiator and see what the coolant level looks like. Under the hood there is a black plastic cover over the radiator. It has 5 screws. There weird screws you have to push them out from behind while you unscrew them. Once the screws are out the cover pulls right off.
    On the left is the radiator cap. With the engine cold unscrew it and see what the coolant level is in there. Should be right to the top.
    If not fill it up with water.

    While your in there check to see if the fan belt is still on the motor. there's one belt on the front of the motor its only job is to turn the engine coolant water pump. No belt= Overheated engine.

    get a flashlight and look at the front of the engine on the passenger side of the car. if you look at the top of the engine for the black plastic oil fill cap just to the left of that and down is the belt. See if there's a belt on the front of the motor. Then look very carefully in the surrounding area for dried up colored specks either red or greenish looking specs. Should be no specks because if there is the water pump is blown and its leaking coolant out its weep hole which may have started this whole thing. Specks are pretty common here. Bad pump.

    Also see if you have heat in the cabin. No heat bad air lock and also bad airlock will cause rushing water sounds under the dash when heat is on.

    When done make sure rad cap is on tight and put the black plastic cover back on. Not necessary to screw the screws back as that cover is trapped by the hood. Mines been on my car with no screws for 10 years. Its not going anywhere.

    Good Luck
     
  15. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    Low engine oil level can trigger an intermittent Master Caution light (red triangle w/ exclamation point in middle).
     
  16. A.Liz

    A.Liz Junior Member

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    Was able to remove air - All lights (check engine and red triangle) are off. I ordered a code reader (actron cp9215) and drove to pick it up from store this morning. No lights, no issues. I hooked it up and had zero codes.

    A good sign, I assume and hope it stays that way for a while!

    Very appreciative of all your help. You guys are seriously the best and helped me so much just educating me on what to look for, what questions to ask..and most importantly the heads on locating a new mechanic! Lol

    Bless you all! =D
     
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