Excessive/Ghost Mileage after mechanic?

Also, how would one update the engine calibration?

 

Edit:
This is local and will ship far quicker, but even less identifying features, just "This will work for a 2010 base model prius".
BWD CP715 Canada Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid | TheWrenchMonkey Canada


More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS CP625
This seems like a good replacement but its not the same part number? The site says this part (2586037020) is compatible with a 2010 prius, and so do others, but I'm still not sure.

Was there maybe a purge valve recall/upgrade somewhere that changed the part number?
All 90910-12279 parts seem to be used or sketchy. I also called the dealership to get a quote and they don't even sell 90910-12279 "Whole" (I'd have to purchase the "whole assembly"... like the intake manifold? I'm not sure what he meant but I'm not going to spend half a thousand to find out)

 

New purge valve that looks identical (including markings) from RockAuto, and new oem intake manifold gasket.

No change, problem persists.

 

Well no, but if there's zero change, for better or for worse, I really doubt software would make an impact.

And how do I even do that anyway? I recall reading over the TSB and still being confused on that step. Do I need to take it in? Can I do it myself? What techstream does it need, and can I screw it up by mistake?

Also I got AN update in February as per the recall. Is it that one?

Edit:
Not to mention the TSB mentions USA. I'm in Canada.
The parts numbers don't match up either.
I replaced 90910-12279, TSB mentions part number 25860-37020.
It also mentions parts 89660-47###, which are to upgrade the computer. Thats a $600 gamble at minimum, and if the cause was a stuck valve, I don't see how it'd make a difference.

 

On another note here's a sample drive that demonstrates the problem.

 

Thank you, I'll give that a try when I get the cash.

 

The dealers are very adamant that Techstream wouldn't be important and it's also $130/hr.

They also told me that USA tsb doesn't apply to Canada.

Also, I got a document that outlines the calibration IDs, and I already received the latest one, like I mentioned. See right side of attached picture.

Also, the calibration IDs don't match up with the TSB. I've attached the TSB ids for ease of reference.

What now?

It's worth noting I have no fault codes, even pending is clear.

 

I did not see this part.

Questions:

• The passages are just small holes? Where do they open up to?
• How will I drain them?
• Do I need additional tools i.e. Vacuum, Compressed Air, Water hose (Can I use high-pressure car wash hoses? I don't know of any low-pressure water hoses)
• What Oxiclean do I use, and how much/with what?
• How long should I leave it in?
• Should I rinse it after?
• How long should I let it dry?
• Would you recommend shoving my EGR cooler into an OxiBath as well? How much do I use for that?

Thanks!

 

So, funny story,

Naturally this happened when I was rushing to replace my purge valve. Luckily it's the easier-to-access top left one in the airbox, and it snapped off high enough that it still keeps the airbox in place. Still, I'd like to eventually fix this without breaking my manifold, so any tips?

 

I've cleaned my intake manifold, with EGR ports, entirely. Also pressure rinsed the residue. It now looks out of place in my rusty, dusty engine bay.

I was able to shove pipe cleaners straight through with little problem before cleaning, so I guess right away I knew they probably weren't the problem. Still, I did 6-8 runs with oxiclean. Attached is the end result (post bloom) of the first 2.

No change.

I'm going to get a 12mm deep socket eventually to get the cooler out and try the same, but do you have any recommendations for checking if it's stuck open/closed? Can I hook up a battery to some prongs?

Fun fact, oxiclean solidifies to quite a hard substance. I was worried my egr pipe was done for, but hot water, picks, and a car wash fixed it.
Edit:
Oh, I didn't interpret your instructions correctly. I just jammed 10% water, powder, 90% water into the thing. Worked mostly the same, just don't let it dry up.
View attachment 170114

 

Yup, I have cleaned my EGR before, but it was a bit rushed and it was just to the point that I could see out the other side. Unfortunately when buying my own tools I got a 10mm deep socket instead of a 12. I found that out today after I had gotten everything else undone.

Okay I guess... I'll try this soon. I'm very skeptical though, I feel like if there was an update available they would've told me.

 

So I had a thought and noticed some people (wrongly) disconnecting their EGR or blocking it off to "fix" the problem. I tried that as a diagnostic, and same behavior persists (with a check engine light of course)

By this logic, would it be safe to say the issue is not with the EGR system?

Also, if a head gasket is blown, a check engine light would show/there would be increased oil consumption, right? I noticed this morning there is "white smoke" coming out of my exhaust, but the problem is I don't know what the regular exhaust looks like. I've also seen copious amounts of similar smoke from other cars when they floor it, so I think I'm just colorblind.
But is there any other way to be sure? My coolant and oil is staying level.

Edit:
Could the fuel filter be a cause? I'm reading up and there's not too much documentation on it so I can't rule it out. Would you be able to?

 

I'm thinking of taking my car to AutoDex, but the problem is they're just telling me to leave my car there and they'll "call me when they've found something".

In my head, that's ample time to do anything to my car, including swap parts or plant a mechanical seed to make sure it breaks down later.

Not to mention they don't do weekends, and I kind of need to go to work every day.

A few people here have said good things but I don't know if I should trust a mechanic that can't give an ETA and I can't be present as they work. Any advice?



ALSO, UPDATE:
I have noticed that especially at high speeds, when it goes from full electric to combustion, there's a noticeable hesitation to the point of temporary speed reduction.

 

Nothing in techstream for updates or health check.
New 12v battery.
Another mechanic visit, this time less costly but equally annoying.
I'd like to note they took from 9:00 to 6:00 to do a test drive, check the air filter, spin the wheel once or twice, see if the check engine light is on, and shove smoke into the evap system.
I highly doubt the compare vehicle had the same problem. I've driven newer priuses and I've driven *my* prius, it didn't used to do this.
How is 6L/100km considered "good overall" on the generous onboard fuel econ system when I was getting 4.9L in the winter?