Gen 3 lower control arm replacement info

Just had the same thing happen to me. Ran off the road by some jerk. He gave me a toot and a wave as he drove off. I just got new insurance the day before and didn't want to turn it in.I had to replace both control arms, both wheel bearings, left tie rod, left ball joint, and left wheel. I removed the 3 bolts for the engine mount and jacked up the engine an inch or so to get the control arm bolt out.My half shaft also rubbed the cross member but was not bent so I reused it. Came to $786. More then my deductible but at least my rates won't go up.All parts were genuine Toyota except for the wheel which was from LKQ. It got an alignment too. Good to go!

 

Hi just read your reply you say you removed the engine mount bolts. . Right sie top mount only ?????? Had this issue really dont want to drop subframe sounds a nightmare , if you could could you post a picture of the mount you undid? Please

 

Sure!, No need to drop the sub frame. The bolts removed are circled. I then jacked the engine up from the oil pan with a block of wood on the jack. Go slow and stop jacking when the bolt for the control arm will come out enough to remove the control arm. When I put everything back together, the engine moved a bit and the bolts for the mount didn't line up anymore. I put a little weight on the jack and moved the engine back into place so the bolts would go back in.

 

Sorry, The third bolt is under the engine coolant reservoir. You can see half of it in the picture but I forgot to circle it.

 

Nice one thanks was looking at that but didnt realise there was one under the coolant box , did you take all the bolts out or just losen them ? Any problems along the way ? Thanks for replying by the way

 

The bolts did need to be taken out all the way. The engine needs to be lifted quite a bit to get the control arm bolt out enough. The only issue was that they didn't line back up when I lowered the engine. I was able to maneuver it back into place with a little weight from the engine on the jack. It was no big deal.

 

Hey guys...I know this is an old thread but I found this video that shows how to do what is described above :

 

OMG... ok, I have to re-watched the video again and the gist of it is that part of the engine or rather, the oil filter is blocking the clearance of the long bolt to come out completely, correct? Thus the loosening of the engine mount bolt and jack the engine up a bit to clear the way for that MF bolt to come out.

 

Could just removing the oil filter work?

 

Anyone know the torque specs for the 3 engine mount bolts?

No, the bolt head is facing towards the front of the car. I don't know much about car parts, but it is some other part of the engine that is blocking the bolt from being fully taken out. Not the oil filter

 

I think they're all in the attachment. The "RH" mount (at the timing chain cover) has a preferred sequence of bolt install: maybe search for Gasket Master Prius head gasket replacement videos, they mention it.

 

The new Gasket Masters video is linked here, I believe that bolt install sequence is noted:

New head gasket replacement video from Gasket Masters | PriusChat

About 9 minutes in, he says to start with the bolt that screws in from the underside, for removal. Install would be the reverse I think.

The older video (in same link) appears to be taken down.

 

Thanks. I looked through the attachment though, but the bolts I'm talking about are not listed on there. The ones I need torque specs on are shown in the above video (linked here again).

... Were those the wrong ones? Hope I didn't damage anything, cause I went to start my car after replacing the right LCA, and I heard the engine rattling/knocking... I'm hoping it's just from the front end being jacked up for a while and the oil needs time to be pumped up. Or something like that, I don't know how it works

 

Timing chain jumped a tooth? See this for a (chicken wire) tip on avoiding that. Interesting read in general:

Blown Head gasket rebuild....@297k | Page 34 | PriusChat

 

Is that a possibility? I didn't do anything other than unbolt those 3 bolts (shown in the video at the 1 minute mark), jack the engine(?) up, replace the lower control arm, lower the engine back down, and bolt the 3 bolts back on. I didn't have a torque wrench at the time though, which is why I'm looking for the torque specs to try to torque them down now.

I was hoping that the rattling was just caused by the front end of the car being jacked up for an extended period of time (weeks - some other stuff came up that I had to take care of first). I checked the oil on the dipstick and it seemed low (near the min mark), so I did an oil change. However, I drained out over 3.5 quarts and put in 4 quarts of new oil, and the car still makes noise upon starting. I haven't let the car sit while on yet. I was scared of causing further damage, so I turned the car off immediately after hearing the noise.

I should probably make my own thread about this, rather than stealing this thread

 

I think I had a brain f@rt.

 

All good.

I was looking through the repair manual, and found this. Just wanted to double check with y'all, are these the same bolts I'm working with?

 

The right side engine mount? They go over it quick at 34:30, first video here:

New head gasket replacement video from Gasket Masters | PriusChat

 

Hmm they do sort of go over it, but they don't mention any specs. I'm just trying to confirm if the 3 bolts I'm tightening are the 70 ft.*lbf ones I posted a pic of above