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Horrible racked noise at start up

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Erin Riel, Jan 16, 2018.

  1. Erin Riel

    Erin Riel New Member

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    I went to start my 2010 Toyota Prius and it made this awful racket at start up -- I've owned it for three months and never heard that noise come from it before.

    Any ideas? It stopped after about two minutes. I took a video but I'm not sure how to post it.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  2. Erin Riel

    Erin Riel New Member

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  3. Erin Riel

    Erin Riel New Member

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    I turned the car off then back on, and the noise didn't happen again!

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  4. Prodigyplace

    Prodigyplace Senior Member

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    It depends on your definition of "fine". I expect @danlatu would recommend installing an oil catch can.
    The cold startup rattle can eventually require the engine head gasket to be replaced or the engine to be replaced.
    People have had good results installing the OCC to eliminate the knock.
     
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  5. Erin Riel

    Erin Riel New Member

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    How safe is it to drive for the time being if that's the case?

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  6. Prodigyplace

    Prodigyplace Senior Member

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  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I'd say turn it off asap when hearing that sound: don't prolong the agony. Restarting, the noise may be gone, at least that was my experience, the one time I've heard that.

    It was also one time that'd I'd fired up the engine for only a few seconds, the day previous. It's speculated this might trigger it. @danlatu has some specific ideas as to the cause, and suggests an Oil Catch Can install, coupled with intake manifold clean out. I've done those. Here's a good thread on that:

    Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock! | PriusChat

    Also look into EGR circuit cleaning, @NutzAboutBolts has a video on that, pinned in the maintenance sub-forum:

    Nutz About Bolts Prius Maintenance Videos | PriusChat

    How many miles on it btw?
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I think the easiest way is to post on Youtube, then you can link it here. I say "easy" at arms-length: I've managed it, but there was a definite learning curve for me.
     
  9. Erin Riel

    Erin Riel New Member

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    68,200 on the dot! Just had an oil change a week ago and had two filters replaced, all at the dealership

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  10. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    it's fine to drive, no worries.
     
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  11. Erin Riel

    Erin Riel New Member

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  12. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    yep, that's it!(y)
     
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  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Funny: you just had an oil change, and in the thread you linked the Initial Poster also had just had an oil change.

    There's a knowledgeable member (sorry, can't recall his name right now) who mentioned (quite a while back, 2008?) that fast oil fill after a drain may result in some oil flowing into the intake manifold. To be fair that's the first I've ever heard of that, suprising there's not more about it.

    Ah, found it:

    Overfilling Oil | PriusChat

    And up the page, post #3, by @tochatihu
     
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  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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  15. Erin Riel

    Erin Riel New Member

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  16. Erin Riel

    Erin Riel New Member

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    No kidding?? Wow!

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

    Woops this was supposed to be a response to the "no worries, safe to drive" comment
     
    #16 Erin Riel, Jan 16, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2018
  17. Erin Riel

    Erin Riel New Member

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    I drove it to a job (approx 30 mile commute) without issue -- woohoo! Started up fine again when I was leaving.

    Fine all good and dandy?

    Would you recommend I take it to the dealership at all? Get that oil catch can thing?

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #17 Erin Riel, Jan 16, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2018
  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    That video sounds bad btw. If it's not knocking I'd say you're fine to carry on; it seems to be an intermittent thing.

    I suspect dealership will be exercise in frustration and $'s.

    Yeah, look into OCC, clean intake manifold, clean EGR. The latter is a bit of an undertaking: watch the videos. Start by cleaning the EGR "pipe". There's a video on just that, and it's relatively easy section of EGR to get to, and will give you some idea judging from it's condition. I think @NutzAboutBolts recommends 120K miles for this? I did my EGR at 72K kilometers: could definitely have gone further, not badly clogged at all, but better sooner than later. We're low miles and at 7 years, time on my hands, so it was what the heck.

    Also have a read through this thread, for EGR:

    EGR & Intake Manifold Clean Results | PriusChat

    (I get in gear on page 3.)
     
    #18 Mendel Leisk, Jan 16, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2018
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  19. Erin Riel

    Erin Riel New Member

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    I don't have much faith in my own capabilities to do these I might give the dealership a go!

    They had done the multipoint inspection when I got the oil changed -- I'm surprised they don't look at the intake manifold.

    They had replaced the cabin air filter and the engine air filter on the third of this month (at the time of the oil change, so actually almost two weeks ago)

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  20. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Trouble with EGR clean through dealership, they very likely would prefer to just swap parts, not clean, and the parts are expensive: $450~500 for both the valve and the cooler. A third party mechanic, willing to pull the parts and maybe you just clean them, or replace with pre-cleaned E-Bay parts, is another route. DIY, cleaning what you've got, is hands-down the cheapest, basically free, apart from the expense of a can of Brakleen and some Oxi-Clean to soak the cooler.

    Tools for the complete EGR, you need the basics, a 3/8" torque wrench is good, something that can get down to 5 foot/pounds. A 1/4" torque wrench is even better. Also a E8 Torx socket (probably 1/4" drive) is mandatory for EGR cooler stud removal, and E6 if you want to remove the two throttle body studs, when doing intake manifold. A ratcheting 12 mm box wrench makes it a lot easier to remove some hard to reach nuts at back of EGR cooler.

    I'd suggest to take on the check of the EGR pipe yourself, see how gummed up it is, go from there.

    Some Repair Manual info, attached.