Hybrid Battery Reconditioning(Requesting some help)

It's hard to get accurate capacity readings until after you've reconditioned modules (three successively deeper discharges & recharges)

And in general these Tenergy measurements aren't very accurate as they're only measuring how much electricity is being sent, not how much is being lost to heat and not received. Hope you got fans to keep the heat down!

Also a much more accurate way to test modules is measure voltage drop at 2minutes when module is connected to 12v 50w bulb. You can use your headlight bulb if it's a standard Halogen bulb.

Also more tests that help is how much voltage does each module lose after a full charge after a few days or longer of just sitting there (aka: self discharge test). And if you have a cheap thermal camera you can find modules that are running hot that let you eliminate them before they fail. You can also weigh modules and the lightest ones will be the one that have vented/lost electrolyte.

There's more tests than that, but those are some of the best ones...

 

Yes I know that some will not agree with this..................

But "reconditioning" a battery that already has signs of getting "weak" is largely a waste of time.
It might appear to make the battery better but in reality it probably will just change a cell that is slowly losing capacity
to one that works better for a short time........and then fails completely suddenly a short time later.

 

LOL, thanks for the helpful info

 

You could have a lot of variables going on, including the wire size you're using, the stop voltage and the delta setpoint the charger is using to determine when the 'full charge' has been reached. I'm not familiar with the charger you're using, but they all typically use very similar programming.

Why don't you try it with some lower settings, as banging it with 5A in and out, over and over, potentially with insufficuient cooling may be your undoing.

Try using a 2A charge, 1.5A discharge, 8200 max charge mAh, 20mv delta and a finish voltage of 5.8v. Small wires or bad connections will give false voltage readings at the charger. Make sure your safety stops are not set in such a way that the charger times out. IE, don't have the max charge time set to 180 minutes if you're using a 2A charge rate.

I've cycled thousands of Toyota modules using similar settings, but I've been using CQ3 chargers, which are a bit more limited on the discharge wattage than what you're using. More wattage doesn't necessarily provide an advantage, as you really want a lower current as the module depletes. I just finished a set of Highlander modules yesterday. 26 of 30 modules tested >6100mAh. 4 were bad.

The goal isn't always cycling for improvement (although that does happen), but also verifying the module is good and has the correct voltage curve to show all individual cells inside are functioning properly.

 

Nothing funny about it.
I just "un-blocked" you yesterday.
Back on the list again.

 

win!

 

CQ3 charger in this video.

Some discussion here
Hybrid battery balancing | Page 7 | PriusChat

And here
Cycling battery modules - do these results make sense? | PriusChat