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Is it possible to pull pistons without pulling the engine?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Isaac Zachary, Dec 18, 2020.

  1. Isaac Zachary

    Isaac Zachary Senior Member

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    Just thought I'd ask. Of course by the time I get the head off most everything in the way of pulling the engine has already been disconnected. I'm pretty sure the rings are clogged up and causing the engine to burn oil. But I'd like to take the easiest route to re-ringing the engine as possible, other than just using certain oils or additives and living with it. Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

    2006 Prius.
     
  2. alftoy

    alftoy Senior Member

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  3. Isaac Zachary

    Isaac Zachary Senior Member

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  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    AFAIK, if 2nd gen engine is sim to 3'rd: to access crankshaft you need to separate a split line, about midway between oil pan and head. Engine removal is only practical method?
     
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  5. alftoy

    alftoy Senior Member

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  6. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    That may be incorrect, and I could link to the posting on Berryman where someone likely read and misunderstood the Chemtooler's answer. If you have that BITOG post handy and can share such, it would be interesting to see what people over there had to say about B-9.

    B-12 Chemtool is required, and a link to the correct posting and answer : Chemical Dip for a piston soak | Berryman Products

    Neither Chem-Dip variety (part #0996 nor part #0905) is ideal for a piston soak. Your best bet for that application is using Berryman B-12 Chemtool Total Fuel System Cleaner (part #0116 or part #0101). Please note that it can take up to a pint per cylinder to cover the entire piston, depending on the configuration of the engine (flat 6, V8, etc.).
     
  7. Isaac Zachary

    Isaac Zachary Senior Member

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    Ya! But then I found this on the same site: Berryman B-12 verses Berryman B-9 carb dip cleaner | Berryman Products

    So I guess... go figure??
     
  8. Isaac Zachary

    Isaac Zachary Senior Member

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    #8 Isaac Zachary, Dec 19, 2020
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2020
  9. alftoy

    alftoy Senior Member

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    Interested to see which is more suitable.

    ???? https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/2007-prius-piston-soak.320599/post-5309043
     
  10. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    Flip a coin. I'd pick either product. Warm up the engine and force charge the HV battery. Remove all spark plugs and if needed rotate the engine with a socket on the crankshaft pulley until the all pistons are about half way down the bore. Pour 1/2 to 3/4 cup of cleaner into each cylinder then loosely refit the plugs.

    Let it soak for 1-1/2 to 2 hours. Pull the plugs again. Do not let it soak too long. I have read that you don't want to let the engine cool off with cleaner in it as it could make the stuck rings worse. Suck as much liquid as possible out. Cover the plug holes with an old towel weighted down with something and try to start the engine (this will blow out any remaining fluid). Refit the plugs and coils. Rotate the engine by hand a few times to make sure it won't hydrolock.

    Clear codes and immediately go drive the car- hard. Lots of rpm change and load. When you're done change the oil and filter. Repeat if needed. (If all I had was oil consumption then I might do it a couple times before commiting to a re-ring or engine replacement)

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  11. Isaac Zachary

    Isaac Zachary Senior Member

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    It's been pretty cold, far below zero every day. I think I'll see if a friend of mind would let me use his garage to let it soak in a warm place where the engine isn't going to cool down quickly.

    I'm still up in the air about the two (B-12 or Chemtool). I think for a shorter amount of time, like a couple hours, the B-12 would be better. Apparently it evaporates more quickly. I also want to try a bottle of Liquid Moly Engine Flush at the same time. Maybe try both each oil change for a while, and use a high detergent oil, with very frequent oil changes. Rotella maybe?
     
  12. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    The water based B-9 chem-dip (part# 0996) may work, but I can't locate anyone who has used it for an internal piston soak, and that BITOG thread does claim success with using B-12 chemtool as a piston soak. Back in the day, we would use a pail of B-9 chem-dip (before the recipe change) to soak carbs and parts in, just stick it in the basket and then down into the pail it went.

    Have yet to use B-12 chemtool (part# 0101 or 0116) as a piston soak, but have successfully used it as a fuel add and again in the oil right before a change. There was a difference in consumption, and the vehicle may benefit from more applications.

    Before committing to a piston soak using a particular product, buy some B-12 (or a gallon #0101 using a 10-off-30 coupon) and try it in the fuel, and right before you change the oil. You could try the above using Kreen where you can run it in the oil for 1k miles, then add more or drain if needed, and if you choose to piston soak with Kreen you wouldn't need to do an oil change immediately afterwards.

    FYI, we recently had a PC'er that had an issue after a piston soak, though it may not be related. Link to read from above and below.

    Please post here with what method and product(s) you end up using, and if any noticeable difference was observed.
     
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