Is this a good deal on a 2012 Prius? Need help.

welcome! sounds expensive. you need to educate yourself and you've come to the right place. first, you have to start with the msrp. that's the price on the window sticker. it's a good base because it's mandated by law that all the cars have them and no matter what dealer you go to, the same model with the same options will have the same price. next is to shop around at different dealers and also the internet. there are several car buying services like cosco and aaa. once you get the best price, don't let them sell you any extra's until you understand them and are sure you want them. now it's time to find financing. the dealer will want you to use thiers, but you can get bank and credit union financing as well. look for the best rate and have them show you the payout schedule as the dealer showed you. total cost added up for downpayment and monthly payments are most important although, some are more concerned with monthly payments. there is also leasing which is a whole nuther ballgame and takes a lot of learnin'. stay posted to your thread, a lot better advice than this will be coming. don't let the dealers hard sell you on anything, always be prepared to walk away like you did the first time. all the best!

 

Advice starters:
1) Educate yourself (caveat emptor)
2) Figure out exactly what you want (model, options, color, etc)
3) Never buy based on monthly payment. Negotiate on the price of the car then add tax, title and license.

 

Tell us what state you live in and what models you like.
Tell us lease or purchase.
Some folks are liking internet offers as one way to get competitive deals.
Take a look at BuyaToyota.com for ideas ...I think you can ask for quotes.
Some are going out of state to get the best offers (eg; Plug in Prius)

 

Yep. Providing the above info would help us.

Considering the OP's handle, I'm guessing they're in CA.

Totally agree, esp. on #3. If nothing else, read Confessions of a Car Salesman - Edmunds.com so you don't get trapped into raising the price on yourself.

 

Out of curiosity, did they use the "4-square system"? "Confessions of a Car Salesman" Updated for 2009 - Edmunds.com had a claim from a salesman that nobody uses it anymore.

A few years ago, I helped a friend car shop (she ended up not buying) and I'd finished reading much of that series. Sure enough, the Honda dealer pulled out the 4-square sheet. The most recent time I went car shopping with her (end of 2011), it didn't happen, but she didn't negotiate at any Honda dealer. She did finally buy this time.

Definitely look up what incentives are available for your area at Incentives and Rebates and
BuyAToyota!

. Do look up CarsDirect's supposed no haggle price. That should be your max price since you should be able to get that price w/o negotiating.

Do look into the invoice price and TMV at Edmunds.

I've never looked at TrueCar much, but some folks claim they're shady in terms of what they list there. I can't say whether that's true or not.

Do look at What Fees Should You Pay? - Edmunds.com and understand Dealer Holdback - Edmunds.com. On the latter, even if there are no incentives, if they sell to you at invoice, that's not their true cost, due to holdback (at least w/Toyota).

BTW, whenever I've bought a car, I've never gotten a loan thru the dealer, so the "monthly payment" thru them was irrelevant. There wasn't any, so it never came up. I got a loan for one car (even though I had plenty of cash to pay for it) and got the loan thru my credit union. The rest I paid for w/cash (well, check).

I haven't read all of Confessions of an Auto Finance Manager - Edmunds.com, but be prepared in case you get high pressure sales tactics in F&I. I personally have not been subjected to high pressure tactics but was present when my friend was. The woman used psychological tactics and tried to guilt trip me. She'd never bought a new car and I wasn't expecting the deal to be closed that day so I had no time to prep her on what they'd tried to push on her.

 

Also, Consumer Reports says extended warranties are usually a waste of $. If you think you really must have one, be sure to check to see if Discounted Toyota Prius Extended Warranty /Service Contracts | PriusChat is still alive. If so, you can probably get a way better price than the dealer.

BTW, unless you need the car NOW or there's some screaming deal/incentive that's about to end, don't be a huge rush. Make sure you do all your research first and shop around.

 

Oh California of course.
Well I think we should say Dianne is Toyota salesperson who is registered here on PriusChat.
If I lived in CA that would certainly be an option for me.
That gives you a competitive no haggle CA-style deal.
OK you said Prius II ...
Here's the only thing, if you are highly energetic, one Prius Chat member in CA got a PiP in Maryland and drove it all the way back to CA. Given Prii are more expensive in CA, possibly PiP in MD is not too much more than a Prius II in CA. But that is the road less traveled. 2013's are coming soon good deals on the 2012's but supply is depleting.

PS- skip all of the million extras they try to sell you like CWERDNA said just take your car. You have to say no for about a half hour on stuff like protective coatings etc
I think the saleperson has to ask so just be polite and listen say no.

 

I recommend that you do all the work online. Read this:
How Much did you pay for 2012 Prius | Page 14 | PriusChat

You can save your hard earned dollar if you do your home work.

 

dont understand why buyers will trap themselves into a deal at dealership.
this is the age with information at your fingertips.
make some emails to dealers, and have them compete for your business. This process will take far less time then going to dealer and negotiating in person (unless of course you have newspaper ad that is honored on the spot).
This way your not asking salesman/sales manager to do a favor for you for a deal, but rather they are bidding for your business. Potential savings alone is worth the time, and dont forget the stress/headache

 

Step 1. Know what you want (and you do)
Step 2. Shop for financing, if you have a credit union, go there and get pre approved.
step 3. Shop for the car, if in California check the Saturday newspaper ads for specials, it will give you an idea of the going price.
step 4. Contact 3 or four dealers, negotiate strictly on the price of the car. Tax and license and doc fees are fixed in California (figure about 9% sales tax $400 give or take for the registration and tags and I think the doc fee is fixed at either $55 or $95 and I think there is a tire recycling fee of $25 or so, that is it. If they tell you there are other fees, walk.
step 5. If their financing can beat your deal at a credit union or bank, take it.
step 6. You should be able to figure the monthly payment yourself if you know the annual percentage rate and the length of time (48 or 60 or 72 months). Take a calculater with you.
Step 7. Take your time, remember it's your money, if you feel pressured, walk, trust me they will call you back.

 

Also, have something written into the sales agreement where you can easily back out and get your money back in full.