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Misfires again

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Main Forum' started by run4priz, Mar 10, 2023.

  1. run4priz

    run4priz Junior Member

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    Follow up to prior thread…Rough start after extensive cleaning and replacement parts | PriusChat

    After 1.5 yrs since over haul which at the time I replaced head gasket, spark plugs / coils, cleaned EGR cooler / valve, cleaned intake manifold/throttle body.

    Last weekend, started getting CEL, P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304. Not drive able at all. 201k miles
    Leakdown shows
    1-20%
    2-17%
    3-31% - suspicious
    4-9%

    no compression test yet. Coolant was low but holds pressure. Tested with no loss in 20 min.

    spark plugs were not wet but had carbon deposits.

    will still do compression test. Loss of coolant certainly suggests a head gasket issue. But given it holds pressure and oil is clean, also thinking something towards intake manifold or EGR or even PCV.

    Would love to get some thoughts on next diagnostic steps. have replacement on hand HG just in case. Really need to get running by Sunday night.
     
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    warped head or block? Valves not sealing?

    Sunday night would be heroic. Rent a car for at least a week and make it easier?

    Or trade in for token value?
     
    run4priz likes this.
  3. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    Yay! Another new thread to an existing thread so can bounce back and forth like all of the lord of the ring movies. I’ll make the pop corn!
     
  4. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Now for round two

    Once again the plugs, coils and egr proved futile.

    Rebuild this time including pistons and rings. Or else you can shoot for the hg record, currently three before an engine replacement. But by Sunday a hg may be the quick and dirty.
     
    #4 rjparker, Mar 11, 2023
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2023
    run4priz likes this.
  5. run4priz

    run4priz Junior Member

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    wow! Helpful and productive.
     
  6. run4priz

    run4priz Junior Member

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    Thx! Hoping car last another month (possibly less) and then be retired. Definitely not worth a rebuilt engine IMHO.
     
  7. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Retiring a 2012v5 might be a losing proposition for the next year or two as long as used cars are in short supply. If you change the engine diy a $3k fully rebuilt engine shipped for perhaps $500 would renew an otherwise good v. Assuming the brake booster and hybrid battery were already handled.

    https://hybridpit.com/toyota-prius-2010-2015-1-8l-hybrid-engine-2zr-fxe-motor.html

    Think of it, no more oil burning, no more cold start misfires and no oil leaks. For another 150,000 miles or to simply add $8k to the private party resale value.
     
    #7 rjparker, Mar 11, 2023
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2023
    James Finch likes this.
  8. W. Sobchak

    W. Sobchak Junior Member

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    Hello,
    Did you buy the spark plugs from eBay or Amazon? Two years ago I bought a 2010 with 103,000 miles, the previous owner took excellent care of this car and did the maintenance himself. He said he just replaced the spark plugs when I bought it. At about 125,000 miles it started to misfire badly so I replaced the spark plugs with original Toyota brand from a local dealer. The plugs I took out had Toyota markings all over them but look different from the dealer plugs, country of origin different, lettering faded and not sharp, leaking from porcelain at base. The car now runs like new and has been for 10,000 miles. I stumbled across a YouTube video channel talking about counterfeit Toyota parts that led me to this. I mention this because it looks like you put about the same amount of miles after your spark plug replacement. If you bought the plugs from a local dealer then this would not apply.

    Also with that many miles instead of trying to clean an old and possibly worn out EGR I would recommend replacing the EGR valve with a new Oem Toyota one and having the software updated for this, TSB-sb- 0027-16. If you want to eliminate the EGR valve as the cause you can block it off where the metal pipe from the intake manifold bolts to it with a thin putty knife. Remove the top bolt, loosen the bottom one, insert the putty knife and tighten the bottom bolt. Don’t drive it around like this, just temporarily to eliminate that part as the cause and don’t try to just unplug the harness connector to test this.
    Hope this helps in some way.
     
    Grit likes this.