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My usual snafu...

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by HellOnAStick, Apr 5, 2018.

  1. HellOnAStick

    HellOnAStick Junior Member

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    So about a :month ago, before the massive snows, I posted these threats (threads?)

    Replaced upstream/downstream sensors, now gas engine won't start. | PriusChat

    When I attempt to start, everything seems to function, but ready mode just flickers, there is a pop from the trunk area and then the ICE won't start. I have my mini VCI and my Techstream (finally) loaded on my win 7 64 bit laptop.

    I have tried replacing the 12v battery, no dice.
    Filled up with 5 gal of extra gas, (suggessted because of the flashing gas gauge), No Dice.
    Generic Codes thrown are U0100 and P3000
    One of the banks on the HV battery is at 11.67V (low) Bank 1 while all the rest are at 14-15V. So I think that probably would cure the ECM ''A'' Issue, by charging or replacing said bank.
    It would probably also cure the Transmission control issue, thinking that its not in park. What say you, wise heads of Prius Chat?
     
  2. HellOnAStick

    HellOnAStick Junior Member

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    Mistakenly posted this earlier in the 'technical discussion' forum.

    So about a :month ago, before the massive snows, I posted these threats (threads?)

    Replaced upstream/downstream sensors, now gas engine won't start. | PriusChat

    When I attempt to start, everything seems to function, but ready mode just flickers, there is a pop from the trunk area and then the ICE won't start. I have my mini VCI and my Techstream (finally) loaded on my win 7 64 bit laptop.

    I have tried replacing the 12v battery, no dice.
    Filled up with 5 gal of extra gas, (suggessted because of the flashing gas gauge), No Dice.
    Generic Codes thrown are U0100 and P3000
    One of the banks on the HV battery is at 11.67V (low) Bank 1 while all the rest are at 14-15V. So I think that probably would cure the ECM ''A'' Issue, by charging or replacing said bank.
    It would probably also cure the Transmission control issue, thinking that its not in park. What say you, wise heads of Prius Chat?
     
  3. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    what does the 12v measure?
     
  4. HellOnAStick

    HellOnAStick Junior Member

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    12.38V
    12.38V Had it charged before, tech said it was fine. Bought a new one and put it in just to see...same same.
     
  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    terrible. put it on a charger and try again.
     
  6. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Your title reads : "Finally.... TIS Techstream"

    Then below you mention "Generic Codes thrown are U0100 and P3000" o_O

    Did you notice any subcodes or INFs?
     
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  7. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    the more threads you start on the same subject, the more disjointed the help will be.
     
  8. HellOnAStick

    HellOnAStick Junior Member

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    Good thing Auto zone is close. Battery away!
     
  9. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    what brand of battery did you buy?
     
  10. HellOnAStick

    HellOnAStick Junior Member

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    I'm new to Techstream so I'm still learning what to look for. so far those are just he ''DTC'''s shown, when i reset these codes they pop right back up.
     
  11. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Look for a little 'asterisk', 'snowflake' or 'flower' type icon, then click on it.

    Be sure to write down any read DTCs and INFs before resetting or clearing.
     
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  12. HellOnAStick

    HellOnAStick Junior Member

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    Pen and paper, Away! man...im seriously considering salvaging this thing. I would hate to do it after 331,000 miles of goodness, but i'm starting to get intimidated as to whether or not i can actually fix the damn thing.
     
  13. fotomoto

    fotomoto Senior Member

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    You have a failed module(s) in that block.
     
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  14. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    First things first, fix the obvious. Like foto said, you have a failed module(s). If you mean it's actually BLOCK 1 that is 11v, you are a lucky son-of-a-gun, because that is the 2 modules at the very end of the pack and could be swapped with very little disassembly.

    A bit of visual inspection would be prudent. 'Popping' noises can sometimes be associated with electrical arc damage. Maybe you just have a loose cable. Hmm..the main (-) cable connects to the negative terminal of the first module of Block 1.

    Also, 11v is kind of an odd voltage, even for a failing block. usually one modules is still fairly healthy at 7.4-8.1 volts and the failing module is around 6.3 (due to losing one 1.2 volt individual cell). That leaves the block around 13.7-14.4 usually. 11 is definitely unusual..........
     
    #14 TMR-JWAP, Apr 5, 2018
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2018