Prius C Traction Battery please help i am out of ideas

Apologies for being the class clown here, appreciate @Javierz0509 has a serious issue.

 

If you are DIY, check if @2k1Toaster has a kit of new cells. I know he does Gen 2 & 3.Several people here, including hybrid experts, have put thousands of miles on his cells with no issues.
If you are ever near Tampa, Todd at Tampa Hybrids (@TampaPrius.com ) sometines has good used packs.

 

For sure it's out of warranty? You're dealing with dealership, not direct to Toyota I assume? If so, and you're just a bit out of warranty, talk to Toyota, see what they can do, say split the bill or similar.

 

Soooooo, looking back through this thread, I'm reminded of the thread started by forum member fermuscolo with a 2012(?) Prius C. He had a similar issue with his battery. It ended up being foreign material (ah-hem.....cockroach & eggs) in the HV battery electronics module that was causing the P0A80 code. Considering all your module voltages were identical at 7.6, and you see nothing else obviously wrong, why not check that also? It may seem like a crazy thing, but you just never know. Read the thread at this link.

Hybrid system failure | PriusChat

 

Dorman sells rebuilt Prius batteries and they claim their bus bars are better than the original because they are plated and don't corrode.

Looking around the internet I found these.

NEW Hybrid Battery Bus Bars (26 pcs) Toyota Prius Gen 2 2004-2009 - Reflex Concepts LLC

Those little voltage drops across all those bus bars add up, I wonder if anyone has ever tested and found out how much voltage drop a good battery has in it?

 

We also have many stories here of their batteries, rebuilt with used modules, failing. Sure, they may replace the battery under warranty, but your car is down again and you may need to pay for installation again,

I am sure @TMR-JWAP or @ericbecky or @2k1Toaster have the equipment to check the voltage drop for a good battery.

 

Here is the thing for me:

Given the above information, I think it is HIGHLY unlikely that your battery has failed due to bad cells........and continuing to pursue a "fix" that includes replacing cells would be a BIG MISTAKE.

Is there not an independent hybrid shop in the greater Miami area that has a good reputation ???

It sounds to me like you need some help and I think it is unlikely that you will get it here......unless it might be a referral to a good shop.

 

In addition, you seem to be ignoring the posts I made about being SURE that you don't still have a 12 V problem before you sink a lot of time and money into what may NOT be a problem with the HV battery at all:

In addition, a few other folks have suggested along the way that things other than bad cells can cause the HV system to report that it is in trouble, including bad connections, controller failures and........12 V problems.

 

That number 29k sounds ominously familiar? Maybe someone with a better memory will weigh in, but I'm pretty sure there was one scammer selling dreck batteries, always advertised as being pulled from a wreck with 29k miles?

 

See post number 24...

 

The HV battery should be a direct swap.

 

P0a80 sets when the voltage between all blocks varies by more than 1.2V. This happens when the resistance in the blocks is different, and manifests during charging and discharging. When it's just sitting, the blocks balance, and show the same voltage. When they charge/discharge, a difference in resistance will show a different voltage. Of course, dirty connections will cause resistance, but if you've cleaned or replaced them, and it still sets, one or more cells in the battery are going south.

Test: With scan tool, graph "Battery Block Min Voltage" and "Battery Block Max Voltage" PID's. With a fully warmed engine, and no codes (erased), and the ICE stopped, put the car in reverse, and step on the brake and accelerator at the same time. This will discharge the battery without starting the engine. When the battery gets low, the engine will start; release the accelerator. When it stops, push the accelerator again.

This charge/discharge action will set the code if the block to block variation is more than 1.2 volts, and you'll see it on the scan tool. It also tells you which block was highest and lowest. Also look at block resistance PID's.

 

I see you are in Miami. Heat is a real enemy of these batteries. Have you regularly checked & cleaned the HV battery fan?
Is the car kept outside or in an air-conditioned garage?
Remember the Prius c ("city") is designed primarily for city driving, not freeway. If there was a lot of highway driving that could stress the systems more too.

 

Actually highway driving is considered easy on the EV side of the hybrid drivetrain. Hills, climate (heat), low-use and, ultimately, age are considered the major factors in battery degradation.

In the OP's case, I'd say it's mainly heat and a bad roll of the dice.