Questions about speaker installation - brands, sizes, etc.

Correct, they're not a straightforward size. They're an esoteric Toyota footprint that's more like 7", but keep in mind the available depth is very little with the windows rolled down. You can install a shallow-mount 6.5" with adapters included with some speakers or custom MDF adapter rings.

The tweeters in the front doors are part of a bolted-on plate. Most of us have cut off the stock tweeter and used a surface mount adapter [included in most tweeters] to re-use the bolt-on plate.

It's not the easiest car to work on for audio, as it's all non-standard sizing, but it is workable and results are good.

 

My install is coming up soon! Will have a ton of pics to help everyone out.

 

Why not replace head unit? I've got a C3 and I'm looking at it. Is there something I'm missing. It's looking like a pioneer x920bt/z110bt or better with a PAC SWI-RC or PS, will maintain all steering wheel functions including voice recognition. They have GPS, bluetooth, and best of all I know the IPOD connection is good with Pioneer, I have one in my truck. Not trying to sell you, just curious about what I'am missing.

 

I don't think you're missing anything, other than I'm satisfied with the stock PC2 head unit and don't see a need to pay money to get a similar feature set. I loathe in-dash Nav and it's been proven many times that touchscreens are awful GUIs, so a proper volume knob and real buttons are my preferred UI.

Here are my explicit reasons:
1) aftermarket bluetooth & ipod interfacing, while good, are rarely OEM excellent, and I'm not going to take the two inputs I use most often and pay money to compromise them.
2) Good user interface. the stock head unit has that, aftermarkets really struggle in that arena
3) satisfactory sound quality from the stock head unit. I drive on the interstate lots and/or with the windows down, so having a reference system is unnecessary. If I need reference-quality instead of merely hi-fi, it can wait until I get home to my listening room.

 

If you get the toyota speaker mounting brackets. Depending on the brand you go with. They will fit standard size 6.5" and or 5.25" plus you will get anywhere from 1/2" to 3/4 in spacing. Or just make your own out of MDF. The distance from the glass to the door is 2" so make sure the mounting depth of your speaker is under 2.5 & 2.74 in. If you make the spacer any thicker you will need to modify the door panel because it will interfere. The stock set up sticks out an inch past the door (not counting the foam that is on top to dampen vibration)but the speaker is inset so the throw of the woofer doesn't have an issue.

 

Thanks for posting the depth data. I didn't have it handy.

 

Yes, rear speakers are the same size as the fronts.

Medium Density Fiberboard. It's the de-facto material for all home and car audio projects.

It depends on the car; the more modern the car gets, the less opportunity for easy-peasy and the more you have to fabricate and be creative. Honestly this car is easy to work on compared to other 2012 cars, even with the hack-n-slash for the tweeter mount.

 

I know some of your concerns have been answered throughout this chat but if I was in your situation where you are concerned about a hack and cut and custom mods. I would get the toyota mounts through any supplier like scosche, crutcfield, metra etc. then buy anywhere from 5.25 or 6.5" separates for the front and 2 ways (same size for the rear. it will be the closest to plug and play you can get. With the tweeter mount i would remove the existing mount all together and use a lflexable adhesive that will stick to plastic(most silicone adhesives) and glue it to the door. if you use the right connector instead of a butt connestions the panel will still be removable. your biggest "challenge from there will be adding speaker terminals to the wire and mounting the toyota spacer to the door. Knocking off the rivets that hold the existing speakers are simple. its just the holes left are faily large diameter so you will neex a wider screw or the little metal tabs that come with most mounts. I will be doing a similar swap this weekend and post pics for you to check out. the only difference is i will be amping mine. But i will show pics as if im not to make it easier.

 

Same post I put in my sub question thread. Might help here too?

So heres the door speakers I did. 6.5" Infinity Kappa separates. 270w max. Pictures are a little rough sorry. It was wet and cold outside but I really needed to improve the sound. Removed the old speakers completely. rewired to the crossover. Put the adapter on that came with my speakers. I used the black silicon behind and around the adapter. More for vibration than air sealing. Used weather stripping the mounted the woofer and used 1/2" self tapping screws to mount the tweeter case. Slightly angle the tweeter then put the door back together. The cross over is mounted in the foam in the back side of the door panel.

 

Nice, I didn't know those brackets are not too expensive . I found an MDF board in my garage, so I made my own custom ring not looking pretty, but hey I recycled the MDF, it hidden behind the panel, and it is free
Here are the links to the front and rear doors panel removal:
prius C speaker size | PriusChat
HOW-TO: Rear Door Panel removal | PriusChat

 

Cool. What brand speakers did you install? using the power of the existing factory head unit (ie, not an aftermarket amp with speaker-line level converter)? How's it all sound? I'm wondering if I can go "in phases" by first getting new speakers and then, if I'm not satisfied, adding an outboard amp but keep the factory head unit.

thanks!

 

I put Alpine SPR-60C for the front. I cut the factory tweeter from the mount, and glue the aftermarket to it. Just using 2 existing speaker wires. Sound definitely clearer Check out the detail write out instruction on this thread: post# 34 Prius C Aftermarket Stereo | Page 2 | PriusChat