Red Triangle, all lights, hard to start, bucks on acceleration

Hello! Long time lurker, now a poster

Last week, after letting prius sit for 4 days, I went to turn it on, and it would not go into drive. I had to turn it off and on again, with LOUD clicking (selenoid?) until it eventually went into total drive mode.

So of course, I whipped out my trusty OBDII Banx adapter, and fired up Torque Pro.

Showing codes: P0AFA, P0AC0, and after driving about 100 miles, P3020(or thereabouts)

Torque Pro showing module 1 @ -1v, and module 2 @ 25.4v (stuck on 25.4v), all the rest perfectly in line @ identical voltages, through the gradient of charge.

The fan(t.Battery) came on strong just sitting in garage running A/C, even though none of the 3 battery temp sensors went over 95 degrees. (as per Torque Pro)

So, I tore the battery out, took off the somewhat corroded bus-bars, and tested each one.

Each and every cell was perfectly 8.04-8.05v (60%charge?) with the 28th@ 8.06 volts...

So, i've got the car apart, expecting to have to replace a cell or a few, but they are testing perfectly. They seem to be operating perfectly, but after clearing Fault Codes repeatedly, the red triangle of doom shows up within 4-5 seconds.

Any ideas where to start?

Thanks in advance!

 

I have not put it back together, and I have noted dolj's noting of my attention towards the aforementioned thread.

I have started to clean the contacts for the main bussbar, however brown they look, the contact points were shiny. This lends itself to the cells being fine, and I will look more closely at the voltage read leads. Soaking the nuts currently.

What is strange is that the traction battery ecu sees the 1st module as ~-.1 and the 2nd as 25.4! volts. Quite the spread there. (even though they all test with mulitimeter @ 8.04-8.06)

I will let this battery sit out for a couple days and retest. I am leaning towards testing the conductivity of the sensing wires, although I'm not sure my probes are thin enough to get into the plug at the opposite end. Perhaps upon inspection, I will find I simply need that "wire frame #2" replaced.

That would be nice!

 

130k. Connectors on Battery ECU look fine.
Tested all cells again today, all between 7.89 - 7.91.
I'm going to order the new harness, and test these cells daily, and i'll reinstall the battery sans cover/upholstry for access.

The other day while driving with lights/codes...I would clear fault codes while driving, and the car would immediately drop rpm/smooth out, then lights come on and it punks out. HV Battery voltage in torque was showing 220ish volts while on highway, so I am inclined to believe the "bucking" is an active cut by the controller, rather than a limitation of current from the batteries.

 

UPDATE: w/pictures

So I got my wire harness #2 from a dealership in IL from ebay, came very fast via USPS surpisingly

As I was removing the old wire harness, the Orange plug was difficult to remove, and when it finally gave way, lo and behold one of the pins (corroded) had snapped off from the ecu. Whelp, time to buy a new ecu...

Any insight to the differing serial codes on these? Mine is 89890-47091, but I'm seeing 47092 and 47071 for thes same model years (2004-2009). Are there functional/build differences?

Thanks guys

 

Thanks JC91006, I got one before seeing your reply.

Got it back together, car started but 12v is also borked, getting one today. Got the Dr Prius app, (which FYI anyone reading this: IF YOU HAVE TORQUE INSTALLED ON PHONE, DR PRIUS WILL NOT BE ABLE TO READ OBD2...perhaps only one OBD2 program can attach to the BAMF OBD2 dongle at a time).

Once I get new 12v, I'll charge it with my smart charger and will run the Dr Prius Battery test. Fingers crossed!

 

Alright!

Whelp, got the car on the road, did the Dr. Prius doodad in it's various schemes.

Car spitting out a whole new slew of codes, P3000, P3011, P3014, P3015, P3017, P3019, P3023 at various combinations therein...

Now after Dr Prius "diagnosed" my battery, it shows "Poor Balance Block 1"
and
"Battery pack has estimated 63.40%, in "Fair Condition" Warning! Block 1Weak.

I have attached some screenshots of my phone while running the battery monitor. There are clear variances in the charging and discharging voltage in line with the level of amperage.

It looks like #1 and #10 are practically inverse of one another, #1 high voltage on charging, 10 low, and upon discharging #1 is low and #10 is high?

Tough to make heads or tails of this, outside #1 definitely needing attention. Would this call for some sort of rebalancing? Or can we determine from this that there are cells clearly requiring replacement?

Thanks in advance guys



#4, #8

 

Since I only recently learned one can manually charge the traction battery by depressing the brake whilst gassing it (in drive), and depleting the traction battery by putting it in neutral, I found out a few things:

1) The battery fan is quite lackadaisical in it's operation
2) Battery temp #2 gets highest fastest (on this car)
3) All cells other than #1 tend to modulate up and down together. (on this car)
4) #4 tended to stay lower voltage than the rest under low-draw or charge conditions
5) The ABS pump pulsation can be seen on the voltage meters of the individual cells.
6) I also need a new ABS pump.
7) You can hear the sizzle of the Traction Battery with the cover off when charging
8) I can't tell if #1 is the best, or the worst module of the bunch. anyone?

 

I replaced the harness #2, I bought a couple cells, waiting for them to arrive, when I replace the #1/2 module I will take care to clean them up better and torqued to spec. I don't imagine they should be an issue, but then again who knows! Thanks.

 

Update:

Took out battery again, removed all original bus bars, acid soaking them, cleaning up nicely. also acid cleaned the nuts (lightly) and the main leads @#1, #28 and the middle ones for the disconnect. I noticed the chrome got a slightly cloudy patina to it, but better than the black crud originally. I didn't realize how grimy the bus bars actually are until you take them out and clean them! Cleaned the studs/contacts as well.

I also noticed that the plastic was somewhat "stuck" to cells #1 and #2. Looks like the bus bar got very warm on these two cells.

I set up a test bench with one of the prius headlights and some good guage wires and a multimeter
Went through every cell for 30 seconds, noted starting voltage and voltage drop
#1 had a .18v drop, #2 had a .10, all the rest were either .14 or .15
So I re-tested #1 @60 seconds, and lo and behold, a GIANT .68 drop
For shits, I retested some of the others that seemed anomolous with the Dr. Prius, and they all drop .18 or so @60 seconds.
So, mr_guy_mann, you may have been absolutely correct in your assessment.
When I get my new cells, I will test them, and swap the #1, reinstall cleaned bus-bars and reinstall battery.