Red Triangle of Death

Is this based your experience solely in the WA area? In the south-east US area of SC, GA and Fl I have yet to see a battery core where it's failure could be traced to corrosion issues on a harness, bus bar or fastener.

Are you finding that the modules themselves are still in excellent condition and the battery can be returned to full service after corrosion repair?

 

No the inverter coolant pump doesn't cool the battery. It has nothing to do with the battery temperature or the speed of the battery cooling fan.

The most likely scenario is that your traction battery was faulty. That a module locally overheated and failed with a bang. That your battery (probably already hot before the bang) then completely overheated causing full fan speed.

 

So you've probably got other problems as well as the traction battery. But the inverter coolant didn't cause the battery to go bang and overheat.

 

Yah, that's not good. I know a few tricks to bleed the system if you need help. IM me or hit me up on fixmyhybrid at G mail

 

Nick, it was great to meet you today. Someone posted a picture showing the block numbers in this thread. It's post #7. Battery Module/Block Identification | PriusChat
But I would definitely try a grid charge before replacing that module because the voltages looked very similar from one to the other and the resistances were all identical. (Unless you saw something different in the picture you took of the screen, since the voltages were all slowly dropping, which made a precise comparison hard to do.)

 

Looks like that module on the end exploded.

 

Good deed for the day done.

With all you have going on, still finding time to help those in the Tampa area.

@Nickkliesen sounds like he has a good direction now .

 

Interesting!!! It sure looks nasty. Odd that it showed OK on techstream. If it hasn't failed yet, it sure looks like it will very soon. I PMed you Todd's info in reply to your query. I'm sure he'll have something helpful to say when you call him tomorrow. Keep us posted.

 

It was an excuse to get the PiP out on the 70 mph highway for the first time without a 25 mph cross wind. Looks like it was averageing about 50 mpg on the Suncoast. Pretty happy with that and having some quality time with my lovely bride of 42 years while I was at it. All in all, well worth it.

Once my son gets the transplant and recovers, I think we'll take a nice long road trip. Thinking Colorado at least. But that's a few months away. Mostly now, we're waiting and helping where we can. Probably taking #1 grandson to baseball practice again tomorrow after work.

 

#1 by birth or are you admitting to favoritism .

 

By adoption order and age, actually. I like 'em both, but I spend more time with #1 since the 18 month old is still getting used to grandpa. He's all over his grandma, though. LOL! He'll come around. I'm like the Pied Piper. In a good way.

 

If it's any help the melted modules in Nick's picture are from Block 14, not Block 1. You should replace both of those modules because the terminal seals have been compromised.

If the car is setting a block 12 code you can bet there's an issue in that one as well.

I can't stress enough how important it is to torque all of the terminal nuts down when you put these batteries back together. Double and triple check every one and don't trust that your buddy did it. I've seen this same mistake before and it always happens when two people are working together to assemble a pack.

Your ECU is probably fine. The only common problem with the computer modules is corrosion buildup in the orange plug that connects to the voltage sensing lines on the front side of the pack. If you take it back apart you can take a look at that connector and make sure everything is clean. That's about it though.

Matt

 

Nick, I can't guarantee that that picture was accurate. No one in that thread disputed it, but that's not a guarantee. I'm sure Todd can tell you when you call him later. If the picture is wrong, I may look it up again and make a comment to that effect, even if it is an old thread.

 

Nope, that post is wrong. On the Gen II, the end near the ECU is block 14 and the opposite end is block 1.