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2002 Prius HV Battery Status

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by David White, May 12, 2014.

  1. David White

    David White Junior Member

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    After purchasing our Prius in 2004 we've enjoyed 10 years of comfortable and efficient transport and I'd have to say its been the most valued car I've ever owned however I'm now wondering if the end of this great run is coming. A few days ago an exclamation light appeared on the dash together with a car icon with exclamation through it. Hadn't ever had a problem with the car except for a steering motor issue which was repaired under warranty many years ago.

    The car seemed to be driving just as well as it always had, with the battery charge indicator fluctuating between half and three quarters. I drove it to our Toyota dealer and it wasn't long before I got a call telling me a new HV battery was required. The cost here in Australia has been quoted at $4765 and since this amount is considerably more than the car's value it may not be a viable option to repair.

    Toyota advised me not to drive the car under any circumstances however I insisted I drive it home from the yard and after paying $150 for the diagnosis allowed me to take the car. At least I can now organise a salvage yard to pick it up and pay me $50 for the scrap metal value.

    The workshop provided me with some codes and I'm interested in others feedback about the severity of the problem.

    Anyway the codes were:
    P3000 - Battery Control System
    B2799 - Immobiliser Malfunction
    P3009 - Leak Detected

    The car drives well and I can see the battery charge fluctuate as the ICE kicks in as it always has. I'm not intending to rely on the vehicle and am looking to make a quick purchase of a Gen 2 & 3 model. But I'm tempted to pull down the battery and replace damaged cells, the car may have a little more life in it which my son could make use of.

    Thanks for any feedback,

    David
     
  2. LEVE

    LEVE Member

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    The 3000 error is telling you that the HV battery has a problem.

    The 3009 sub error may be just due to corrosion building up between the HV battery modules positive lug and ground. Clean off the corrosion and you're good to go.

    That's free if you do it yourself. If you have the HV battery out you can check the battery cells' voltage, and balance the cells. You may have to replace a couple of cells, the cost is variable, but inexpensive.

    Then use a grid charger to recondition the battery. I just purchased a grid charger for about $300 (shipped to my door) from Venice Hybrid Tech. Click on the graphic and it will take you to their site:

    [​IMG]

    I'll be doing the same job you'll need to do over the next couple of weeks. I'm going to go slow and take my time. When I'm done I should have a rebuilt HV Battery for a whole lot less than one a Toyota Dealer would sell me.
     
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  3. slimfrancis

    slimfrancis Member

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    Yes, it's an easy job to at least diagnose your own battery and rebuild it for as little as $45. Google priuskings hybrid battery repair video on amazon.
     
  4. David White

    David White Junior Member

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    Thanks LEVE, an interesting comment about the possibility of corrosion. Here in Perth, we've just had our first substantial rains of the season with very high humidity over the past week. I'm thinking that maybe moisture in the air is helping corrosion on terminals to flag a fault. Given the HV charge as displayed on the console appears to be ok and the car drives normally, the condition Toyota have suggested may not be as critical. Then again I won't really know until I open up the battery. I'd heard the Gen 1 cells have been known to leak but then I'd assume if this was the case there would be issues with the overall state of charge.

    With all the resources available at PriusChat (and PriusKings) as well as the grid charger you've suggested, managing battery issues is looking a lot more viable than I'd earlier thought. There are very few 02 vehicles in this state and no market to inspect and repair battery issues so I'm very grateful for help on this forum.
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Before doing too much work, scan this thread for how to find out whether your P3009 leak is in the battery at all, or in the transaxle, or somewhere else.

    -Chap
     
  6. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    Check out my thread too on what I did to fix my 2001 original battery. I did replace 3 modules in my original one.
    while i have the HV battery out of my gen1 | PriusChat

    and this thread on what im currently doing to one I just got.

    i tell you my charger settings and all in this thread.
    got some young 2012 modules | Page 14 | PriusChat

    how many miles are on your car. I wouldnt scrap it, the yard will probably end up keeping it, fixing the battery then selling it for a couple grand, and they want to give you $50 for it. dont do that. there are guys on here that have 300,000 or more miles on these cars and they are still going strong.

    stay away from the "Stealership" batteries, they are just rebuilt ones from failed packs.
     
  7. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    David,
    If your car is experiencing no drivability issues, it may be driven indefinitely with a P3009 code.
     
  8. David White

    David White Junior Member

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    Thanks for this information, it suggests Toyota service personnel might have been jumping to conclusions advising that the vehicle is not roadworthy. They asked me to sign a waiver before I drove out of the yard!

    Also the thread Chap has referred to about diagnosing P3009 is very interesting, it would seem Toyota's efforts so far have been half baked. If more details about the source of the P3009 leak are available without pulling out the battery, why wasn't this done? I paid $150 for a diagnosis so think I'll ask Toyota if they can provide further analysis as described in the thread.

    Regarding scrapping the car, the more I learn from this forum, the less inclined I am to take this course. The car has done 237,000 km / 147k miles has been regularly serviced by Toyota and is in good condition. Yesterday I made arrangements to check out a potential Gen 2 replacement (before learning about driveability of the Gen 1) and will head out later today to take a test drive. Good to know I'll have time for a considered decision about purchase.
     
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I would just recommend against really driving indefinitely with a P3009. Predicting the future kind of depends on where the leak is, but in any case your high voltage safety is slightly compromised already. Normally, all points of the high voltage system are isolated from the metal of the car. You get the P3009 as soon as one leak anywhere has made the car body involved with the HV system at one point. It would still take something more, like damage in an accident, to expose a voltage difference between that and another part of the circuit, but you are now only one problem away from that happening instead of the normal two.

    If the simple test says the leak is in the transaxle, probably the stator winding insulation has failed at one point. At your convenience you might want to look at the threads here (or the nice video from Luscious Garage) about how to replace a cooked stator and not the whole tranny. At the moment, you don't have a cooked one, and you won't until the other shoe drops and the insulation fails at a second point, completing a circuit. Then you'll be prepared if you've already decided what you'll prefer to do about it.

    Or if the test points to a leak inside the battery, you might want to go ahead and clean up the corrosion before too much time passes. What happens is corrosion grows in little towers or mushroom heads from the battery terminals, and eventually one of them will be the first one to touch the metal case. Here's your P3009 early warning. Things are still pretty good until the day that one of the others becomes the second one to touch the case and completes a circuit.

    [​IMG]

    Clean it all up before that happens and life is good. :)

    Caution about working on the system when a P3009 is shown. A lot of posts here are fairly nonchalant about the recommended precautions like high-voltage gloves, and point out that the way the system is designed with the high voltage completely isolated from the body and interlocks everywhere, to hurt yourself you'd really have to try pretty hard. That might normally be true, but if there's a P3009 reported, now you know the voltage isn't completely isolated from the metal you're touching, and certainly while disassembling and until seeing the situation inside and cleaning it up, I would use the gloves without question and follow the precautions religiously.

    -Chap
     
  10. David White

    David White Junior Member

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    Chap - thanks for your insights about the P3009 code and working with the HV battery. I'm a bit slow to reply as I've been traveling and have only just got back.

    Before going away I made a quick decision to buy a 2006 Gen 2, knowing my wife who does most of the driving wouldn't be happy with the Gen 1 and a permanently displayed warning message. The Gen 2 is in excellent condition, has just had its HV battery replaced under warranty and with only 90k km on the clock should have plenty of life left. I picked up the new car before heading away and also made a call to Toyota to book in a test of the Gen 1. The service liaison guy I've been dealing with was very interested to hear more detail about the possible causes of the HV error codes (thanks to information here) and the means to diagnose the source. We agreed it would be worth pursuing with the workshop in the interest of expanding knowledge and providing appropriate recommendations to customers.

    So today I decided to take the Gen 1 for a drive and found to my surprise the warning light disappeared on start up! Perhaps dry weather for more than a week has contributed to this, I'm thinking reduced humidity points to a terminal corrosion issue (or the new Prius parked nearby). Anyway, there's more wet weather to come and I suspect another opportunity to diagnose the issue.
     
  11. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Three restarts will clear the error light unless the code is persistent. Regardless, the codes can still be read even if the error indication light goes away.

    GOOD LUCK!
    Bob Wilson
     
  12. David White

    David White Junior Member

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    Errors and warnings from this car appear to be completely arbitrary. After the 12v battery went flat when the interior light was left on, the car became undriveable when a freshly charged battery was fitted. The warning triangle appeared with the check engine (malfunction indicator) light together with shuddering before the ICE cut out. Got the car towed to a non Toyota workshop and P3101 and P3191 codes were noted. The codes were cleared and the car started and drove without issue. Its been fine ever since, no faults or warnings despite all attempts to reproduce.
     
  13. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    Sounds like a typical older Gen I to me. :)
     
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  14. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    What it kind of sounds like is the old, sort of familiar, startless start syndrome (other threads mention it). It seems it can happen either after running out of fuel or having some temporary glitch with the 12 V battery. Some one of the computers (I'm not sure anyone has managed to track it down more precisely) gets stuck in a mode where the engine won't start despite cranking (but because a Prius cranks at > 1000 rpm, to most people it sounds like the engine "started", then sputtered and "died" several seconds later). Usually a clean removal and reconnection of 12 V power resets whatever got wonky, and it's cured and starts right up.

    -Chap
     
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  15. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    . . . and making several (3?) restart attempts before adding gas. I've run out of gas over 30 times as part of my gasoline study and never had a problem after adding a single gallon of gas. The key is don't try to restart the car until some gas is added.

    The fuel indicator 'blink' requires adding ~2 gallons to clear. But the single gallon is enough to get down the road to a gas station. A single gallon is fairly easy to add and carry around.

    Bob Wilson
     
    #15 bwilson4web, Jun 18, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2014