Do you need underbody rust protection on new Prime?

Sell it on Craigslist?

 

The motor oils and transmission fluids can go in oil recycling. Any store that sells oil is supposed to accept used oil. Auto parts stores seem to just have a tank in that back that they let you dump it in. Recycling new oil is a bit of a waste, but that's what the hazardous waste collection will do with it anyway.

My town has a hazardous waste recycling center that's open 4 days a week. They take almost anything. The best part is they have shelves full of free stuff like paint and cleaning supplies that you can take. I don't know what they do with everything they can't give away (besides oil which they send for recycling).

 

Okay guys. 2021 Corolla Hybrid. I have an appointment for rustproofing in 3 hours. Oil-based (Krown). My only concern is that this coating can cause electrical issues within the car. Is this concern valid? I searched all manuals that are related to my car and there's not one mention of using rust-proofing and voiding the warranty.

 

I've never used WoolWax or FluidFilm. My father, my grandfather and I have used petroleum based rustproofing for over 50 years with no electrical issues even in the engine compartment. The coating of petroleum based rustproofing actually deters rodents as an additional plus as rodents find the material distasteful. Petroleum based rustproof is a dielectric and actually helps prevent corrosion of electrical contacts.

I would highly recommend that plastic undercovers be removed before and replaced after applying rustproofing.

 

Like Georgina said not necessary to apply rust proofing just spray some heavy viscosity lubrications on all the suspension parts. Then if you need to work on that area just hose it off with carb cleaner.
None of my cars have any rust.
Use CSP SPRAY. It is designed for this. It’s heavier viscosity and exactly like G said it’s also an excellent dialectic.every time I disconnect a plug on my cars it gets its contacts sprayed keeps it from corroding and repels moisture.

CSP is a PB BLASTER family product. It does not smell its excellent lubricant and stays where you spray it.

Haven’t used stinky WD40 in 15 years don’t own a can of that crap.

CSP can be found at Home Depot.

 

Resurrecting this thread. Any consensus as to that to use? We picked up a Prius C that has some suspension component rust. Any ideas on what to use to slow it down? I'm planning on FluidFilm for now. I was reading about linseed oil...but if it attracts rodents...then that's an automatic no for me.

"None of my cars have any rust". If your profile is correct...your car is in Florida....of course it doesn't have any rust. The guy from Minnesota got a hearty laugh out of that.

 

First, pressure wash the underbody and all the crevices, bolts, hydraulic fittings and seams. and let it dry for a week. After a week, spray these areas with a rust converter.

Wait a week and spray the crevices with an aerosol can of penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench. A week later, spray everything with a petroleum based rustproofing.

 

@Salamander_King Haha yeah...this discussion sounds a lot like how oil discussions go.

I like the idea of hitting it with a wire brush and then spraying with a rust converter....and then using FluidFilm or similar after that. Seems like an easy thing to try anyways...

 

I just brushed off loose rust, brushed on linseed oil. Tenacious, and seals it, and seems to have arrested the rust, certainly looks near new.

 

Well I skimmed thru the entire thread...Yikes...there are LOTS of options.

I ended up ordering some 'VHT SP229 Rust Converter' to try as a spray can solution :

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NUABUO/

I think I'll try boiled linseed oil and/or FluidFilm after I try the rust converter.

 

I was digging through my jpegs, not very organized, to no avail, then with what you mentioned, the light bulb went on:

Do you need underbody rust protection on new Prime? | Page 3 | PriusChat

^ There's a pic of the right-rear, bottom-of-shock bolt, after a few years on the car, then a second pic, a year or more after application of boiled linseed oil. No rust-arrestor product, or aggressive brushing (if any), just brushed-on boiled linseed. The rust bloom on the shock weld is nowhere to be seen too.

 

Surface rust is not as insidious as rust in seams, cracks and contact areas between similar metals, dissimilar metals, metals and plastics.

The key is cleaning out these spaces of debris containing "hydroscopic" biologic or inorganic material, converting any rust that remains and treating these areas in exclude the reintroduction of debris that promotes galvanic corrosion.

 

Yeah...surface rust isn't necessarily bad at all for solid cast components like steering knuckles and such. However, the control arms on the Prius C look pretty thin to begin with. *Probably* ok...but mine do look a little bit more rusty than I would like.

 

I used FluidFilm on my truck and I can say that this product is effective. I'm planning to use it on my Prius also.

 

This is one of those urban legends that's maybe half true at best.

It's true large Japanese cities generally do not salt the roads because of advanced snow control infrastructure, but rural areas most certainly do and have for a long time. I know this for a fact because my family's business had to take their turn plowing and salting if they wanted any chance at government contracts. My grandfather fell from the pillow and injured himself quite badly many years ago.

I believe calcium chloride is most commonly used rather than table salt. Because it's exothermic when dissolving it quickly penetrates Japanese snow, which is wet and often very thick. (In fact, the Wikipedia page for calcium chloride has a picture of Japanese road salt). Magnesium chloride and table salt are used though, just like in the rust belt.

My best guess is people came up with this myth to explain why Japanese imports are so clean. I think the truth is Japanese use public transit and until recently kei vehicles for industrial applications. Vehicles that are imported like sports cars are luxuries that were babied and never allowed to rust.

 

Sounds like a reasonable explanation!

All I know is the S&*T they use here in MN isn't good for the 'ol undercarriage.

With that said, ALL manufacturers have become better over the years, especially with *body* rust. However, Mazda has been the exception to the rule for us...ALL Mazdas we have had over the years have had body rust 'from the inside out'. Mazda lost a customer for life because of that. Part of the reason we went to Toyota and Hyundai. NO problems whatsoever with both. And I dare say the undercarriage issues are slightly worse on our Toyotas...but not by much. I suspect everyone has a different opinion on this though.

 

The first pick up Toyota imported to the US, had the bed rust out. They didn't make it by a single stamp of the sheet metal. It was a partial stamp, with welding to finish off the seams. The rusting started at the weld points. Were the trucks as prone to rusting back in Japan?