2007 Prius: C1310, B1400, U0121, P3000, C2122 - Help!

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by cookprius, Apr 6, 2021.

  1. cookprius

    cookprius Junior Member

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    Hey PriusChat friends - I'm a bit perplexed with the recent issues that have sent my '07 to driveway confinement this past week. I have spent a bit of time searching PriusChat posts related to some of these codes. Here's more info about my situation:

    The week prior, I replaced the inverter coolant pump since it stopped working - P0A93 (after being reminded of the last time I did this on our other Prius by reading one of Patrick Wong's post on the subject - thanks Patrick!). Easy job, new one works fine (I did bleed excess air from the system, confirmed pump sounds like an aquarium pump, and that there is turbulence/swirl inside the coolant reservoir). Problem solved, red triangle off. Drove great.

    Then, 4 or 5 days later, I checked the oil, checked the other fluids, filled all 4 tires, and vacuumed the interior (it's far-fetched but I did try to imagine if there's any way vacuuming could've triggered something but I cannot make a sound hypothesis for that! Anyone?? LOL!). Then, after vacuuming, I was simply going to turn the car around in the driveway to load up for a camping trip the next day and BOOM, the beloved RED TRIANGLE appeared when I turned the car on. It would still drive so I went to the local auto parts and scanned for codes. Here's what I got:
    ---------------------------------------------------
    C1310
    1. Active Booster Solenoid
    2. HV System Malfunction
    B1400 Air Conditioner
    -Normal

    U0121
    -Lost Communication with Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module

    P3000
    -Battery Control System

    C2122 Tire Pressure Monitor
    1. Transmitter ID 2 Not Received
    2. Initialization Un-Completing
    ---------------------------------------------------
    I don't have access to a Techstream (or SnapOn, etc), which I know would provide more-detailed information but simply getting all of these *seemingly* unrelated codes out of no where has me scratching my head. Here's what I know and/or have done so far to try to improve the situation:

    1. Checked 12V battery levels (via Display Button/Headlight Switch method). Results: 12.2V (car off), 14.6V (car on). Diehard Platinum AGM purchased new on 11/11/19. I know that sometimes when the 12V is low, erroneous codes can be thrown when there are no actual problems so this is why I checked the battery first. These voltages seem to be within good operating range.
    2. Since the hybrid battery cooling fan was blowing loudly (only after the red triangle would come on), I removed and cleaned (there was not much build up on the fan "blades" to speak of so, I don't think a clogged fan is an issue). Side note: the outside temperature was only around 71°F or so.
    3. Cleared the codes with the auto parts store scanner, all came back while I was still in the parking lot there. Did this a couple times for good measure.
    4. Unplugged 12V battery multiple times (with a minimum of 1 minute waiting time before plugging back in). Every time, the red triangle and other dash lights reappeared within a short time.
    5. Checked all of the under-hood fuses, none were blown (I did not climb upside down to check the under-dash fuses...should I?).
    Has anyone ever gotten this or similar combination of codes? I really need to be able to fix this myself if at all possible but it's hard to know where to start at the moment. If you can spare a few moments, I'd love to know any helpful thoughts from the Prius minds out there!

    Thanks for reading and for your consideration,
    Dan
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    12.2 is pretty low, i would charge it up and read the codes again.

    what are you reading codes with?
     
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  3. cookprius

    cookprius Junior Member

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    Thanks bisco. I'm definitely willing to charge up the battery. Would you say, as a rule of thumb, that 12.4-12.8V in ACC mode, 13.6-14.4V in ready mode are reliable ranges? It's crazy how the battery can have such unpredictable affects on the car's system(s) - I've had 12V batteries read much lower than this in all 3 Prii we've owned with no issues...it's a hard variable to pin down, I suppose.

    For the code reader, it's an Innova CarScan at Advance Auto Parts. Not sure which model - there are different levels, some of which provide more details (and more cost!).
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    yes, and 12.2 may be fine. but when you put a load on it (making the car ready) it depends on the voltage getting to the computers.
    once your satisfied it is not the battery, a prius capable reader may be needed.
     
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  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Huh. There was a very recent thread very much like this.

    Doing blind searches of codes, or lists built into some generic code reader, will often put you face to face with the fact that different cars can use the same code to mean different things. When your car is a Prius, the fact that some other car out there has a C1310 code with the fortune cookie "active booster solenoid" is nothing but meaningless distracting noise.

    If you look the codes up in the repair manual (more info), you'll get the right info every time.

    In the Prius, C1310 is a code from the brake/skid ECU and only means that ECU got the message that the HV ECU has a code you should read.

    So that's the code in the HV ECU that the brake ECU was saying you should read.

    The thing is, this code only means the HV ECU is telling you there's a code in the battery ECU that you should read.

    And the local auto parts store scanner is not showing you the code(s) from the battery ECU, which are the ones that will tell you why your car is in the driveway.

    Pretty much everybody has access to Techstream, at least as nearby as the friendly Toyota dealer. Having it on your own laptop is a big win for convenience, but if you haven't got that at the moment, that shouldn't stop you from getting your battery codes read by someone who can, so that you will know what is up and can proceed with planning repairs.
     
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  6. cookprius

    cookprius Junior Member

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    Thanks Chapman, I really appreciate your insights and references here - all very helpful info and advice. In addition to bisco's suggestion to see about charging the battery up (which I did and while the voltage increased from 12.2V to 12.3V in ACC mode, the same results were yielded), I'm now looking into acquiring a VXDiag VCX NANO diagnostic tool (and a Windows 7 laptop to run it with ease) or something similar. I'll report back here when I make more progress (if I don't give up on the car first!). =)
     
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